1/48 Tamiya SS-100 & 88mm Flak 37

SimonT

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Looking good Jim :thumb2:

(I have one of their old 35th 88’s sitting here for a rainy day, with a DAK crew)
 

Jim R

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Hi all
Peter, Scottie, Simon and Steve - thanks guys :thumb2: Your post, Steve, brought a smile to my face :smiling:

I finally got the cables onto the reels. The kit supplied cotton thread was way too thin so changed that for something thicker. I couldn't find any reference pictures of the cables. All the 88mm guns in collections have no cables and the war time photos are very unclear. Any way I made a connector for the end and wound it onto the reels. Very fiddly as the reels are small at this scale.
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I have started the SS100. Being the Tamiya part of the kit the moulding is crisp and the fit excellent. Started with the chassis and mudguards. A few bits to remove and some filling to make ready for the PE.
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Jim
 

Allen Dewire

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Evening Jim,

Some really great work here and the Flak is tops!!! A word or two over the cable reels if I may.

88mm flaks were normally placed in a group or battery. Each battery had a Kommandogerät which was the trailer mounted instrument for ranging and estimating the altitude of the incoming bomber formations. The cables were used to connect each gun to the Kommandogerät so the gun crew could set the fuses of the shells according to the data/altitude measurements from the Gerät. 88mm guns used as Paks didn't need this as they shot HE or AT against ground targets and had no fuses to set. I hope this helps explain the reels a bit more Sir...

I can't wait to see how well the SS100 goes together too...….

Prost
Allen
 

Jakko

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88mm flaks were normally placed in a group or battery. Each battery had a Kommandogerät which was the trailer mounted instrument for ranging and estimating the altitude of the incoming bomber formations. The cables were used to connect each gun to the Kommandogerät so the gun crew could set the fuses of the shells according to the data/altitude measurements from the Gerät.
I just checked the American TM (see earlier in this topic for a link to a PDF version), and it doesn’t really show or explain the cabling. It shows a 104-pole (!) connector on the rear trail, but pictures in the TM also show a smaller connector on the rear lower side of the fuze setter, without pointing it out or explaining what it’s for as far as I can tell on a quick browse.

As I’m typing this, I see Steve has posted photos of the kind I wanted to include but had to go search for first, to show the amount of cable on the reels and the HUGE connectors on the ends.
 

Jim R

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Hi all
Thanks for your great comments. Steve - appreciate the reference photos. I wish I could find reference photos like you and Jakko and others. Must be the way I search :rolling:

First off I hope you and yours are all well and keeping safe. I have found some bench time although to be honest the mojo is low. Can't seem to settle despite having time to model now.

Tractor chassis is done.
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I had to fit a 1mm filler piece. There was a gap. Being a Tamiya kit the problem is probably mine and not the kit's. The gap is not there on reference photos and everything else lines up and fits fine. Odd but sorted.
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The tractor has double rear wheels. Tamiya made the inner wheels with hollow tyres. Probably wouldn't show but filled them anyway :tongue-out3:
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Anyway keep safe and keep your distance and we'll all be able to "moggle on" The real tragedy is the missus is talking about how "You now have time to decorate the spare bedroom" !!!! :sad:

Jim
 

Steve Jones

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I was waltzed around BandQ at the weekend in preparation for all the DIY the Mrs wants me to do during lock down too LOL

Interesting enigma around the gap Jim. Nicely filled along with the tyres also
 

SimonT

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Hi Jim - that gap definitely shouldn't have been there. That bolted flange should sit down onto the crossmember

May be worth another look at it as jacking up one end may cause alignment problems further down the line
 

Jim R

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Hi all
Thanks very much for your support. I reckon in the current crisis our online community is vital, well it certainly is for me :thumb2:
Simon - I thought like you that I'd cock up the fit further down the line. Luckily the problem area won't affect any further fitting.

A fair bit of progress.
Thanks to the very helpful replies to my query about finding references I have found a lot of very useful photos. The inside of the cab is devoid of any detail.
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I cleanup the roof and fitted the wooden supports
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I made 4 door cards from very thin styrene and made inside door handles for styrene and bits of PE from the spares box.
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The handles are only a couple of milimetres long.
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I corrected the back of the front seat having again found a nice reference photo.
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Made the PE external door handles. Again very tiny.
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Fitted the PE floor to the kit floor.
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Thanks again for your comments and stay safe and moggle on :smiling:
Jim
 

Jakko

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That seems to be coming along nicely :smiling3:
 
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Fine work Jim. I know I comment on it every time, but you're one neat worker.
 

The Smythe Meister

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Hi Jim,
Just had a catch up on this from the beginning,and it`s a great read Sir :thumb2: ,these were a VERY complicated assembly eh?
You`re making a fine job of it,and with the superb weathering you`ve achieved it`s gonna be a stand out piece i think:cool:,
Cracking work!!
Cheers,
Andy
 
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