1/72 MAN 8x8 Truck

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I’m not convinced. By this logic the paint should have a crusty lid every time you open the pot.
Yes, if his theory was correct it would form a skin where the paint met the air in the bottle too. I'll carry on shaking like a man possessed but will see if filtering it helps.

John, I did find a couple of brushes I thought I'd lost (or my son had pinched) so that was a result :smiling5:

Pete, yes, I will try to keep the bottles cleaner as well as filtering. I'll crack this thing I'm sure of it.
 

JR

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Well Chris, Vallejo bottles seem to have a dried crust around the dropper end of the bottle. I'm not convinced that rolling or swirling would put any less air into the paint than shaking, but I do think it sensible to wipe the dropper end before dripping paint into the cup.
Pete
Peter, have you ever had a blocked nozzle on a bottle, I have , needed a pin to remove the debris, its was as hard as could be, this is where I think the root cause is.

Sorry for butting in to your thread Andy . :thumb2:
 

Archetype

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Well Chris, Vallejo bottles seem to have a dried crust around the dropper end of the bottle. I'm not convinced that rolling or swirling would put any less air into the paint than shaking, but I do think it sensible to wipe the dropper end before dripping paint into the cup.
Pete

You get the same with any paint. The little amount that collects around the rim hardens. But I’m not sold on the ‘emulsified air hardening’ idea. It just doesn’t tally.

I always make sure the excess is wiped away from the rim or dropper tip to avoid dried mess.
 

JR

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Yes, if his theory was correct it would form a skin where the paint met the air in the bottle too. I'll carry on shaking like a man possessed but will see if filtering it helps.

John, I did find a couple of brushes I thought I'd lost (or my son had pinched) so that was a result :smiling5:

Pete, yes, I will try to keep the bottles cleaner as well as filtering. I'll crack this thing I'm sure of it.
Andy . I'd be interested on how you get on with those filters, I suppose it depends on how fine you can go and still get pigment through the mesh
 
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No problem at all John, if this discussion helps me and others then feel free to keep it going :thumb2:

The filter I have could be considered pretty coarse in the airbrush world, 200 micron is the size of my airbrush nozzle after all! I've seen them down to 90 microns which would be even better, but I'll see how I go with what I've got for now.
 

Si Benson

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Evening Andy,

Thanks Si. I think I mentioned in my rant that I'd tried with and without their flow aid/improver but it didn't seem to help. Are you using it as well as their thinner, or instead of? I'm sure somewhere along the way I tried every combination but it would be good to know. Can I also ask what airbrush and nozzle set up you use out of interest?

When I see the great work that you and others do with these paints it makes me even more frustrated that I'm having these issues. It's clearly something I'm doing wrong, but I haven't found out what yet lol.


Hi Andy,
This is all interesting stuff:nerd:. In answer to your questions....I used the Vallejo paint without airbrush thinner, just water and flow improver. I can’t honestly remember ratios.

The Mig AMMO paints I used with their own thinner and a drop of Vallejo flow improver. I tend to mix by eye. I do remember still getting some tip drying though so not perfect!

My airbrush is an Iwata revolution BR with 0.3mm needle and I use about 25psi.
I’m inclined to think the moons position and day of the week have an influence on paint flow too:smiling5:
Hope this helps:thumb2:
 
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I’m inclined to think the moons position and day of the week have an influence on paint flow too:smiling5:
You've cracked it, that's where I'm going wrong! :upside:

Seriously though, thanks for the info :smiling3:
 
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I'm trying to make this look slightly dusty / sandy. I'm sure there are plenty of magic potions that could do it for me but for now I'm stuck with oil paints, so trying to build up gradual layers of a sandy coloured mixture. Obviously this is all new to me but I think it's starting to get somewhere. Maybe a few more days / layers around where it would collect most?

MMF28Uj.jpg

ZuvKUl2.jpg

0kWPexn.jpg
 

JR

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Looks good to me And, yes in those nooks and crannies would look best .
 

minitnkr

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Desert, & semi-arid environments will lighten western-Europe camo to the color of the local soil/sand. Where it collects will depend on whether it is loose or compacted. Loose soil/sand will become airborne easily and collect on upper surfaces primarily where compacted soil/sand will be drawn up by tires and collect primarily within fenders. HTH. PaulE
 
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Thank you chaps. I'm guessing dry pigments would build up a more convincing effect more quickly, but working with what I have I'll try to keep building it up on the areas mentioned, without going overboard.
 

Jakko

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The simple way is washes of the dirt colour you want, thicker around the lower parts of the vehicle and thinner towards the top. These sorts of vehicles can be anywhere between pristine (in the garage, mainly) and completely filthy (on exercise), so you can pretty much go for any amount of weathering you care to apply.
 

Jim R

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Hi Andy
Despite your misgivings the paintwork looks great. Really starting to look the part.
For a dusty look often pigments work well. On a matt surface simply rubbing in pigment with a cut down brush can be very effective. No need to fix the pigments although they won't stand heavy handling.
Jim
 

Steve Jones

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If you are persevering with oils for your dust work then your beige, light browns and whites are great for dust work if you drybrush edges and dry brush streaks. Try it on an old model and see how you get on before applying it to the main build
 
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Thanks for the tips chaps. I may end up succumbing to dry pigments but I'll see how I get on with oils first. The boss is already starting to take note of every new product I buy so need to keep things under the radar for a while :smiling5:
 

Gern

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Thanks Jakko & Paul.

It's in my nature to be really self critical. Anything less than perfect winds me up :smiling5:

I can tell you're new at this modelling lark Andy. Anyone who's been doing it for some time knows and accepts that it is physically impossible to build a model that is perfect in your own eyes!:smiling3:

You'll just have to get used to that and just aim to make each model better than the last one: you're on an asymptotic curve - you will get nearer and nearer to perfection but never actually achieve it. How's that for 4am thinking!? Past my bedtime methinks.
 

Gern

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Thanks for the tips chaps. I may end up succumbing to dry pigments but I'll see how I get on with oils first. The boss is already starting to take note of every new product I buy so need to keep things under the radar for a while :smiling5:

Now I DEFINITELY know you're new to modelling Andy! SWMBO will know more accurately than you do just how much you have spent, and will remember the time/date of each purchase no matter how cleverly you try to hide it!!!
 
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Haha, I'm sure you're right there Dave. And in 5 or 6 years time when she's trying to negotiate for a new kitchen appliance I will get the old "don't you remember the day you spent x on y..." :smiling2:
 
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