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Deleted member 6559
Guest
OK, lets get this thing under way. Following requests by fellow members, this will be my attempt at an SBS on face painting. I can't make any promises that it will turn out any good, but I'll do my best to give an idea of how I personally go about it.
My subject will be this Tommy's War bust, another generous gift from Richard Pearce:
The subject is a captain of the 2nd Bn, South Wales Borderers at Tsingtao, China in 1914. Tsingtao was the location of some German forts, laid siege to, and eventually captured by a joint British/Japanese force. The Germans perhaps gained more renown for their spirited defence. Our man appears to be based on the chap in the photograph.
The kit comes in three parts:
This look to be nicely modelled and moulded.
Cleaned up and temporarily assembled:
There are a couple of areas that concern me. The first was some resin that had to be removed and a hole filled under the left eye, and the second is that the right eye appears to turn a sharp corner. It seems that the box artist has solved this by having the eyes look to the left, something that I do a lot anyway (it's easier, evades problems like this, and adds character and expression).
So, the basic materials:
My brush of choice is the Pro Arte Prolene Plus Series 7 0000. Being synthetic, they are harder than sable brushes, which makes the point easier to control. They don't last long, but they are cheap. Ordering them in sixes usually ensures that you'll receive an unopened batch.
The face painting palette:
I use Vallejo Model Colour acrylics exclusively. I find the cover and flow ideal for the way I work. No mediums are used except for a bit of tap water for occasional thinning.
They are, from top left:
1. Flat Black; 2. Off White; 3.German Camo Black Brown; 4.Red Leather; 5.Black Red; 6.Dark Red; 7.Flat Red; 8.Flat Flesh.
The next three are for hair and eye variations;
9. English Uniform; 10. Dark Green; 11. Andrea Blue.
Obviously, we're going for a white European skin tone here. I will refer to the colours by the numbers I've given them for the most part, otherwise it will all get a bit tedious.
My basic method is to work with un-thinned paint and by applying as few layers as possible. Any blending is done when adjacent colours are still wet, or by feathering, stippling and dry-brushing.
I'll now go away and paint the face, try to remember to take photos, and report back with SBS photos.
My subject will be this Tommy's War bust, another generous gift from Richard Pearce:
The subject is a captain of the 2nd Bn, South Wales Borderers at Tsingtao, China in 1914. Tsingtao was the location of some German forts, laid siege to, and eventually captured by a joint British/Japanese force. The Germans perhaps gained more renown for their spirited defence. Our man appears to be based on the chap in the photograph.
The kit comes in three parts:
This look to be nicely modelled and moulded.
Cleaned up and temporarily assembled:
There are a couple of areas that concern me. The first was some resin that had to be removed and a hole filled under the left eye, and the second is that the right eye appears to turn a sharp corner. It seems that the box artist has solved this by having the eyes look to the left, something that I do a lot anyway (it's easier, evades problems like this, and adds character and expression).
So, the basic materials:
My brush of choice is the Pro Arte Prolene Plus Series 7 0000. Being synthetic, they are harder than sable brushes, which makes the point easier to control. They don't last long, but they are cheap. Ordering them in sixes usually ensures that you'll receive an unopened batch.
The face painting palette:
I use Vallejo Model Colour acrylics exclusively. I find the cover and flow ideal for the way I work. No mediums are used except for a bit of tap water for occasional thinning.
They are, from top left:
1. Flat Black; 2. Off White; 3.German Camo Black Brown; 4.Red Leather; 5.Black Red; 6.Dark Red; 7.Flat Red; 8.Flat Flesh.
The next three are for hair and eye variations;
9. English Uniform; 10. Dark Green; 11. Andrea Blue.
Obviously, we're going for a white European skin tone here. I will refer to the colours by the numbers I've given them for the most part, otherwise it will all get a bit tedious.
My basic method is to work with un-thinned paint and by applying as few layers as possible. Any blending is done when adjacent colours are still wet, or by feathering, stippling and dry-brushing.
I'll now go away and paint the face, try to remember to take photos, and report back with SBS photos.
