Airbrush model in steps
- Thread starter etnica
- Start date
Order of painting, varnishing and weathering I use is as follows. But, first of all spray the model with a degreaser or wipe it with ipa to get rid of finger grease, release agent and sanding rubble.
1/ Primer - I ‘black base’ so I use a black primer (black basing is a method used to modulate colour to create a more realistic finish). As well as shading help this helps highlight flaws in the build such as seams that need more filling and sanding. I always make sure I have an even smooth all over black finish after dealing with the flaws and use a polishing stick to make sure it’s smooth.
2/ Spray the underside. This is usually the lighter colour. In doing so I work the inside of the panels more so they are lighter darkening towards the panel lines. Make sure this is not too neat and tidy or it can look like a quilt, you don’t want that.
3/ I use lacquer acrylics so they dry within minutes and even playing safe waiting 30 minutes is enough to enable you to mask over it. If you use water based acrylics then you have to leave it for 24 hours at least, ideally in an airing cupboard otherwise you risk paint pulling away with masking tape. Take similar care over primer too. There are different ways to mask borders and it’s a subject of its own. Incidentally there is no need to mask under the wings except in a few places that might get caught by overspray when spraying at angles. It is enough to spray down vertically to get your demarcation.
4/ Once masked spray the lighter top colour using the same method as the underside. The black basing might not be as effective, depending on how dark this colour is. In this case some ‘post shading’ will help. Mix a little white with the base colour and spray the inside of panels. Don’t worry if there is too much contrast, finish with a series of mist coats of the base colour to reduce the contrast to the level you want.
5/ Mask up for the next colour (depending on the type of camo of course) but make sure the paint is fully cured following the same rules mentioned.
6/ Repeat stage 4 with the darker top colour.
7/ if your paint is matt it might be helpful to spray a gloss coat before the next stage. If it provides a gloss finish as some do then a gloss coat is not necessary
8/ Apply decals or paint the markings using paint masks. But, always, if you are painting markings, do that before applying decals or masking material could pull away decals.
9/ Do any remaining detail painting for instance navigation lights.
10/ Do a sealing gloss varnish coat and give it plenty of time to cure.
11/ do your panel line washes. Enamel work best.
12/ do your first matt or semi matt coat, depending on what sheen the final look needs
13/ do other weathering using pigments, oils or other materials as needed.
14/ do a final matt (or semi matt) coat.
15/ do final weathering, where a different sheen is needed such as oil and kerosene leaks also chipping and wear for which I use metal powders.
16/ Final fitting and final touches as needed.
That’s is my method but, of course, there are lots of other techniques you could use. There is no right or wrong in this.
The materials I use are as follows:
. Primers, paints and varnishes used through the airbrush - MRP lacquers.
. Handbrushing fine detail over the lacquers, Vallejo Model Colour’s water based acrylics.
. Washes AKI or MIG enamel washes.
. Pigments, AKI or MIG
. Metal Powders (used for most airbrushing and chipping/wear) Uschi Metal Powders.
. Cement, Mr Cement S mainly plus Mr Cement deluxe for when a slower drying cement is needed.
. Gator Grip for transparencies
. thin, medium and thick ca, no specific brands.
I hope that helps.
1/ Primer - I ‘black base’ so I use a black primer (black basing is a method used to modulate colour to create a more realistic finish). As well as shading help this helps highlight flaws in the build such as seams that need more filling and sanding. I always make sure I have an even smooth all over black finish after dealing with the flaws and use a polishing stick to make sure it’s smooth.
2/ Spray the underside. This is usually the lighter colour. In doing so I work the inside of the panels more so they are lighter darkening towards the panel lines. Make sure this is not too neat and tidy or it can look like a quilt, you don’t want that.
3/ I use lacquer acrylics so they dry within minutes and even playing safe waiting 30 minutes is enough to enable you to mask over it. If you use water based acrylics then you have to leave it for 24 hours at least, ideally in an airing cupboard otherwise you risk paint pulling away with masking tape. Take similar care over primer too. There are different ways to mask borders and it’s a subject of its own. Incidentally there is no need to mask under the wings except in a few places that might get caught by overspray when spraying at angles. It is enough to spray down vertically to get your demarcation.
4/ Once masked spray the lighter top colour using the same method as the underside. The black basing might not be as effective, depending on how dark this colour is. In this case some ‘post shading’ will help. Mix a little white with the base colour and spray the inside of panels. Don’t worry if there is too much contrast, finish with a series of mist coats of the base colour to reduce the contrast to the level you want.
5/ Mask up for the next colour (depending on the type of camo of course) but make sure the paint is fully cured following the same rules mentioned.
6/ Repeat stage 4 with the darker top colour.
7/ if your paint is matt it might be helpful to spray a gloss coat before the next stage. If it provides a gloss finish as some do then a gloss coat is not necessary
8/ Apply decals or paint the markings using paint masks. But, always, if you are painting markings, do that before applying decals or masking material could pull away decals.
9/ Do any remaining detail painting for instance navigation lights.
10/ Do a sealing gloss varnish coat and give it plenty of time to cure.
11/ do your panel line washes. Enamel work best.
12/ do your first matt or semi matt coat, depending on what sheen the final look needs
13/ do other weathering using pigments, oils or other materials as needed.
14/ do a final matt (or semi matt) coat.
15/ do final weathering, where a different sheen is needed such as oil and kerosene leaks also chipping and wear for which I use metal powders.
16/ Final fitting and final touches as needed.
That’s is my method but, of course, there are lots of other techniques you could use. There is no right or wrong in this.
The materials I use are as follows:
. Primers, paints and varnishes used through the airbrush - MRP lacquers.
. Handbrushing fine detail over the lacquers, Vallejo Model Colour’s water based acrylics.
. Washes AKI or MIG enamel washes.
. Pigments, AKI or MIG
. Metal Powders (used for most airbrushing and chipping/wear) Uschi Metal Powders.
. Cement, Mr Cement S mainly plus Mr Cement deluxe for when a slower drying cement is needed.
. Gator Grip for transparencies
. thin, medium and thick ca, no specific brands.
I hope that helps.
Niho
SMF Supporter
After priming i always do bottom first, usually being the lightest colour, a good 24hrs curing and it'll take any masking tape on it when doing the demarcation betwix top and bottom. Once again start upper with the lightest tone, then onto darker ones. Don't rush is the key.
Have fun
Nick
Have fun
Nick
Jim R
SMF Supporter
Hi Nils
Welcome to the forum. Nothing to add to Barry's very comprehensive advice. It may well be worth your while looking through some of the aeroplane builds on the forum.
Jim
Welcome to the forum. Nothing to add to Barry's very comprehensive advice. It may well be worth your while looking through some of the aeroplane builds on the forum.
Jim
Caustik Filth
SMF Supporter
Barry, how d'you manage that without spilling the paint?
Pete
First of all, my paint cups have lids and I always use them as I would inevitably spill paint out of the cup when spraying regardless of what angle I am spraying at.
Spraying down vertically onto the wing is not problem anyway.
First of all it depends what type of primer you are using.
If it is a water based acrylic then you need it to cure, not just dry. How long it takes depends on factors such as humidity. I would leave at least 24 hours but even then it might not be fully cured. The problem is that water based paint has little or no grip on the plastic and can pull away with masking tape even if you reduce the tac on the tape. Acrylic primer, allowed to fully cure, does help adhesion and is one of the reasons to use it, but even then is not fully fool proof specially if the plastic is not cleaned of all finger grease etc and is a smooth polished surface.
Other types of primer, such as lacquer, have better grip but even then if the plastic is greasy can give issues. Incidentally, lacquer primers are dry and cured much more quickly and are not vulnerable to humidity. I only leave 30 minutes, maximum, to lay a base coat over lacquer primer (or to mask) to play safe and thats regardless of weather!
I recommend that when you lay down a primer that it covers the whole model. Remember this is to show up flaws in construction such as seams that need more filling and/or sanding and glue marks. Best to get all these adjustments and checks done before you start laying down base paint.
There is something encouraging about seeing your model primed and with the flaws dealt with, a blank canvas prepared ready to take paint.
sorry. I slightly misread your question but I will leave the post in full as it does cover some points that may be of use.
Priming - I always primer the whole model at once because lacquers dry so quickly by the time I have sprayed the bottom it is dry, I actually spray ‘low point’ first that will touch when I lay it down and then spray the rest. Handling is also easy, you can start spraying the rear of the aircraft and change your grip to spray the front without putting it down. How I do it depends on the model.
Water based take a little longer to be touch dry so how you tackle it depends on the model.
Priming - I always primer the whole model at once because lacquers dry so quickly by the time I have sprayed the bottom it is dry, I actually spray ‘low point’ first that will touch when I lay it down and then spray the rest. Handling is also easy, you can start spraying the rear of the aircraft and change your grip to spray the front without putting it down. How I do it depends on the model.
Water based take a little longer to be touch dry so how you tackle it depends on the model.
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I primer the bottom first while holding the fuselage then, holding the vertical stabiliser I spray the wings.
I then put it on its wheels and prime the rest.
Should the job be broken in two sittings its done bottom first then the top and sides.
I then put it on its wheels and prime the rest.
Should the job be broken in two sittings its done bottom first then the top and sides.
Hello thanks for the answers =)
so my problem is/was that after priming the entire airplane fuselage with unmounted wheels(painted them separetely) I get marks from where the fuselage has rested while drying. Was using vallejo black glossy primer which seems to have longer drying time then their regular stuff. So that's why I wondering if you could paint bottom first and then later top.
Have tried to google on how ppl solve this but no answers :D But maybe mounting wheels is a must then.
so my problem is/was that after priming the entire airplane fuselage with unmounted wheels(painted them separetely) I get marks from where the fuselage has rested while drying. Was using vallejo black glossy primer which seems to have longer drying time then their regular stuff. So that's why I wondering if you could paint bottom first and then later top.
Have tried to google on how ppl solve this but no answers :D But maybe mounting wheels is a must then.