Airfix 1/72 Sea King

[Deleted member 7181]

Hi all, this is only my second model build so not sure if I'm ready to have you guys riding along, but the critique and/or advice should be good for me so here goes

Kit arrived a few days ago, it's a starter set but I don't intend on using the supplied paint

Started by priming up most of the external parts. Since they are going to be yellow I know transparency will be a problem so figured a good white base will help. Not too impressed with the Vallejo Surface Primer just yet though. It sprays and dries ok but it just seems like more of basecoat than a primer. Despite thorough cleaning and a light sanding before applying as per the instructions it still scrapes off easily after a few days, doesn't really seem to grab hold of the substrate like I'm used to. I may try a little plastic adhesion promoter in the future to see if that helps, or try out some of the other primers recommended on here.

Started to throw the interior together. The recommended light grey looked pretty stark and almost like bare plastic, so tried to dirty it up a little on the seats and floor. Needs much more work but I'd rather take it slowly than rush and mess it up.

Added a bit of detail in the radar "cupboard". Probably won't be seen but I reckon it's good practice for the future.

Added a bit of colour to the rear

And started putting the cockpit together

Obviously I have a long way to go but want to start trying to learn some techniques for breaking up the large areas of plain colour, making them look a bit more realistic (still called weathering if it's interior?).

Slowly slowly though, I need to keep telling myself that I don't need to learn everything at once! It'll come in time (hopefully )

Thanks for looking.

EDIT: Just realised there is a helicopter section! Sorry for putting this in the wrong place

 

[Jim R]

Hi Andy
Good for you to create a thread of the build. Best way to get help and advice and also to ask questions.
I think this kit is the one BBDave bought for the Starter Kit GB. He binned it because of the paint so I'm glad your not trying to use the kit stuff.
That Vallejo Primer is not well thought of although most agree that it improves if left for a good while to really dry. I much prefer Stynylrez primer.
Your progress to date looks very good. Neat construction and neat painting.
One small consideration. On this kit and also on most others there are circular marks from the moulding process. Sometimes they are raised and sometimes, as in this kit, they are sunken. Raised is easy - just sand them off. Sunken, like you have, need filling. Don't bother if the marks won't be seen but you need to consider if they will show and need dealing with.
Above all keep having fun
Jim

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Jim.

Stynylrez is one primer I was looking to try as I've seen it mentioned on here. Scale Model Shop has been out of stock every time I've looked tough, but hopefully will have some by the time I'm onto my next build.

I saw the group build which is what convinced me to use different paint. Luckily I found Vallejo did a colour that looks very similar to the original British Standard one these were painted in. I mixed some of the proper colour up on the computer at work as a tester and the Vallejo is close enough for me.

And I was wondering about the moulding marks. I think most will be hidden but I'll look out for that thanks.

 

[Jakko]

Obviously I have a long way to go but want to start trying to learn some techniques for breaking up the large areas of plain colour, making them look a bit more realistic

A very simple way is to apply a darker wash, followed by drybrushing with a lighter colour. Your interior is a light–medium grey, so a medium–dark grey wash (just paint plus a lot of water) plus a drybrushing with light grey over everything will go a long way to making the interior more interesting. Since it’s an interior, it doesn’t hurt to make the shadows fairly dark and the highlights pretty light; for something on the outside you’d want to keep it a bit more restrained, but because the interior will be dark and hard to see, making the contrast greater will help make the detail visible.

Though you’d be better off applying all that before painting the details, you can still do it if you’re careful where the wash goes instead of just brushing it over everything.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Jakko.

I did try brushing a slightly darker shade of grey on some areas to represent dirt from foot traffic but it wasn't much of a success, I was probably being too cautious. Will have a go at a wash like you suggest. I thought there was much more to them since I've seen so many specific products for sale, but if I can get away with just really thin paint I will definitely try it.

I suppose I could just paint over it again if it all goes wrong!

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Andy
Experiment a little
In the absolute worst case Fairy Powerspray will take it all off again, but honestly, experimentation can sometimes give really great results, and it is really the only way you will improve your skill set.....don’t try a black wash over the yellow outside though, you’ll turn it olive drab green....

 

[Jakko]

I did try brushing a slightly darker shade of grey on some areas to represent dirt from foot traffic but it wasn't much of a success, I was probably being too cautious.

Quite likely, but when it comes to weathering, it’s better to start with too little than with too much. You can always add more, but taking off what you put on too much will generally require a repaint.

Will have a go at a wash like you suggest. I thought there was much more to them since I've seen so many specific products for sale, but if I can get away with just really thin paint I will definitely try it.

People have been making washes from thinned paint for (probably) centuries before model paint companies decided they could sell pre-mixed ones maybe ten years ago All you need is a brushfull of paint on a palette, and mix in some water with that same brush. If it’s too thick, mix in more water (you can also do that on the model if you find it covers too well), while if it’s too thin, just add in more paint.

Don’t drybrush before the wash is well and fully dry, though

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Tim, will do. Like you say, it's got to be the best way to learn.

And thanks again for the tips Jakko.

 

[colin m]

A great build thread and lots of very good question / answers. You've mentioned dry brushing, this, I think is one of the most important modelling skills to develop. Definitely something to master, youtube is great for instructions.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Colin.

I certainly have a lot to learn but it looks like I'm in good hands here.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Well the wash didn't go brilliantly, but ok for a first effort I guess. It certainly brought out the panel lines which is a start.

Decided to hide it all by building up the body

It's easy to see where the tape I used to hold the parts together has ripped the primer off. So much of it came off the air intake cowling that I just removed it all. Either I did something seriously wrong or this stuff just isn't meant to grip to the plastic.

Letting the glue dry for a while then I'll tackle filling some of the gaps (which seem to look much worse on camera than in real life!), and contemplate whether to strip the "primer" off completely until I can get something better.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hiya
Wash looks fine where I can see it on the cab floor....if you had then drybrushed afterwards you would have brought the definition back to the part......
Agree about the primer, I still use cellulose for that very reason....the plastic stuff is not easy to sand down either....great when the part is smooth and needs no further work, but not personally keen on it at other times.....

 

[Jim R]

Hi Andy
Looking good. Masking can present problems. My tips would be always use tape intended for models not decorators stuff - Tamiya is good. The paint surface you are taping to MUST be given time to dry completely. You can take some of the tack off the tape by sticking it to your hand first. Some primers are worse than others when being masked up. I personally find Vallejo rather fragile - I swear by Stynylrez.
Jim

 

[Deleted member 7181]

I can still get into the doorways (the only places you can see inside anyway) so will try the drybrush once the wash is fully dry. Shouldn't take long as my shed is like an oven today with the sun being out! Really need to finish the insulation.

To me the Vallejo seems more like the shaded groundcoats I'd use at work (also waterbourne acrylics). More to go over the top of a dedicated primer to even out the substrate colour and give the top coats better covering power.

Can I ask which primer you use? I've been looking at the Mr Hobby ones as they seem to do quite a range, from what I would call low build up to high build (dry film thickness) and being celly based I can imagine they'll adhere much better.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Just missed your reply Jim. Yes, I used tamiya tape, even de-tacked it a little first.

Will definitely be trying something else. I'm used to primer being bomb proof so it's a massive change for me

 

[Jakko]

Just missed your reply Jim. Yes, I used tamiya tape, even de-tacked it a little first.

Will definitely be trying something else. I'm used to primer being bomb proof so it's a massive change for me

I’ve you’ve seen my F-16, much the same thing happened there: black automotive primer, which I would have thought would hold well to the model, came right off with the tape (Tamiya too) on the underside of the model — just lifted a whole patch of paint right off. I never used to have problems like this with primers 10, 20 years ago, but the ones I can buy these days seem to have a different formulation that just doesn’t adhere as well anymore.

 

[Tim Marlow]

I mostly use Tamiya grey or white. The stick just fine.....I’ve also used Mr colour 1500 (really a liquid filler) and Alclad grey primer. The Alclad is a little rough, but the others are really nice.....all are cellulose based so should lock into the plastic surface. If you can still get car cellulose grey or red primer that will work fine as well.....

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Jakko - Yes I've been watching that build, interesting colour for an aircraft. Glad it's not just me that has had tape lift primer. Of course there's still the distinct possibility that I've done something badly wrong, but it's knocked my confidence in the product.

Tim - Thanks, I'm sure I have a litre of cellulose primer knocking around somewhere but it's so old I reckon it's well past its sell by date. A bit like me!

 

[JR]

A day late so not bad for me , looks a good start Andy.
I'm with Jim on the primer, that white Vallejo takes quite a few very thin coats to get any depth and then a good couple of days to be really hard. Much prefer the Stynylrez, not the cheapest , but well worth it. As for tape, well Tamiya.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Welcome aboard John. I didn't have this problem with the black I used on my Spitfire, so by the sounds of it the white can be the most troublesome. The Stynylrez was definitely on my radar as I'm trying to stay solvent free wherever possible. I may end up trying a selection of primers until I find something that works for me.


So this happened earlier

Most of the primer came off simply by sticking tape over it and peeling it off. The few stubborn bits left needed some airbrush cleaner but it didn't put up much of fight. Will hopefully finish off the nooks and crannies tomorrow, give it a good clean down, then leave it for a few days to settle before carrying on with the filling and sanding.