Andy's 1/35 Tamiya Stug B

[Deleted member 6559]

I thought that last interior shot was the real thing Andy. Brilliant work.

 

[BattleshipBob]

Hi Andy

there were hardly any rivets used on a StuG, they used nuts/bolts ensure the superstructure could be quickly removed for engine changes, steering/gearbox etc

bob

 

[Deleted member 7181]

I thought that last interior shot was the real thing Andy. Brilliant work.

Thanks Peter, very kind of you.

I was thinking a small blob or two of gloss varnish in the corners to represent damp spots and it would be finished.

Hi Andy

there were hardly any rivets used on a StuG, they used nuts/bolts ensure the superstructure could be quickly removed for engine changes, steering/gearbox etc

bob

Thanks Bob. Lesson learnt for the next one - keep it simple!

 

[BattleshipBob]

Sorry! If you have a ?? I will the best to help

Bob

 

[Deleted member 7181]

No need to apologise Bob, it was my mistake, not yours. Thanks for pointing it out before I went any further!

I'm nursing my Christmas party hangover right now but this has completely taken the shine off the build as we say here in Yorkshire, so I'll probably shelve it for now. Will hopefully pick it up again before the end of the GB, or maybe do something simpler and save this one until I'm ready

 

[JR]

Never has much problem with vallejo to be honest, very good shake and use there thinners

That's because you don't have any Russian 4BO

 

[JR]

Hi Andy

there were hardly any rivets used on a StuG, they used nuts/bolts ensure the superstructure could be quickly removed for engine changes, steering/gearbox etc

bob

No doubt because they didn't last very long,
Taxi

 

[JR]

Andy .
Congratulations, your morphing into a Steve Jones with all this detailing.
Poor Bob when you mention rivets, I've just had a look with a large magnifying glass and on mine are bolt heads, but with primer, and top coat they soon look like rivets.
As for the paint choices, I started with AMig , had a terrible time at first, even wrote to the company about why they would clog. Part of the problem was temperature they were kept in, and agitation before spraying. I then went on to Vallejo purely because of the choice, like you I've had problems with them at times. Having my asthma problem much diminished since I retired from dust and fumes I don't want to change paints yet again if the fumes are too strong. When I was at work I used to spray cellulose based wood finishing products, along with using French Polish but could never use a 2-part lacquer, due to the health warning of not using with asthma. Needless to say I always had a proper mask

 

[Wouter]

That's in remarkably good condition, considering where it had been. Is there a story to go with the video Jakko?

I was so angry when I learned that actual StuG was scrapped and sold afterwards

Very nice StuG you are building mate, cool extra detailling!

Cheers

 

[BattleshipBob]

Hi Wouter, not sure. Seen a photo of what i think of the same StuG, painted???

 

[BattleshipBob]

No doubt because they didn't last very long,
Taxi

German stuff never goes wrong, NOT!!

 

[Wouter]

Hi Wouter, not sure. Seen a photo of what i think of the same StuG, painted???

from what I learned it was scrapped. But hopefully not. Just to make you jealous: I had a date with two 1:1 StuGs yesterday

Cheers

 

[BattleshipBob]

You swine, photos, real ones????

I will post the photo, would have thought it would have been worth a lot of money

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Andy .
Congratulations, your morphing into a Steve Jones with all this detailing.

Haha, I wish.

Poor Bob when you mention rivets, I've just had a look with a large magnifying glass and on mine are bolt heads, but with primer, and top coat they soon look like rivets.

I still can't find a decent picture despite a long time scouring the web but obviously I'll take Bob's word for it. All I can ever find is pictures of other models, which don't always help. I did find a build by a guy who mentioned that some kits include raised detail for this instead of the correct flush one, exactly the opposite of what I had gotten into my head!

As for the paint choices ~

I'm starting to wonder if I'm causing my own issues by using both types of paint through the same tool, something I'd never do at work. Since the vast majority of paint issues are user error it's almost certainly something I'm doing, I just haven't nailed it yet. However, I'm going to try using the Infinity just for water based paints for now and see how it goes. So far so good as it happens. Maybe, even though I think I'm stripping and cleaning the brush well enough their are traces of lacquer paint/thinner left in it which are reacting with the Vallejo and causing it to clump.

Hard to believe when I can sometimes clean it 6 or 8 times in a single session, using their own cleaner, but at least it's one other thing to eliminate.

If it turns out to cure my problems I'll take the Steve Jones approach and buy a dirt cheap, almost semi-disposable AB. I can use that for my lacquer primers & paint and keep the Infinity for water based only since it's so easy to strip and clean (not something you really need with lacquers).

 

[stillp]

it's so easy to strip and clean (not something you really need with lacquers).

Can you explain that Andy? I'd have thought lacquers would need more cleaning than aqueous paint?

Pete

 

[BattleshipBob]

i have just used Lacquers for the first time and very impressed but took a bit of cleaning the airbrush, much easy with water based

so not sure if to give lacquers a go or stick with vallejo??

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Pete, I've found with water based they tend to take a bit of brushing, several runs through with a cleaner, that kind of thing, and if any of it has even partially dried it takes some removing. Lacquers on the other hand I just run thinners through them twice and they are sparkling. Even if some paint has dried solid inside a few seconds soaking and it's gone.

That's the way these paints are. Water based acrylics can't be reactivated by their solvent once dried and cured, but lacquers always can, no matter how long you leave them. It's one of their main drawbacks for this hobby I 've found as touching up with them afterwards is a nightmare.


Bob, what did you use to clean up with? Never heard of them being difficult. My solvent spray gun at work probably hasn't been stripped for cleaning in 4 or 5 years, just flushed through with thinner.

 

[BattleshipBob]

Andy

how do you strip Lacquers if things go pear shaped? i might like you get a cheap airbrush (i have a Iwata) and use one for lacquers and the other for water based, might give the tamiya lacquers a go

 

[Deleted member 7181]

I'm not sure Bob. Obviously lacquer thinners would strip it instantly but it would also dissolve half of your model!

 

[stillp]

how do you strip Lacquers if things go pear shaped?

Brake fluid.
Pete