Another newbie asking for advise....please

Andy the Sheep

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Welcome, Stu.
Nothing to add: I fully agree with the main suggestion: graduality and enjoyability are the main passwords to your come back to the hobby.
Me too, I came back to plastics, glue and paints after 40 years and I'm still learning more and more in an evoluted modelling world.
Enjoy the hobby and this forum.
Andrea.
 

Del640

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Welcome!

I've been back modelling now for about a year, learnt shed loads from the members here.

You're very much like me with WWII aircraft and tanks.
I prefer 1/48 scale aircraft and the tanks tend to be 1/35 usually I find.

The shop here is superb for choice and selection and getting items to you very quickly.

Only advice I can give is no question is a stupid question, ask away as the modelling standard on here is quite incredible and the guys are extremely knowledgeable and helpful.

Del
 

Archetype

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Welcome Stu!

Echoing everyone else. I got back in to this a couple of years ago from a similar position and can say for certain that whether you choose brushes or airbrush, lacquer or acrylic, there will be support for you from our amazing membership.
 

Gern

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I mainly used to do 1/72 stuff, but concerned that unless it is a "larger" type model in this category I may not be able to see it with my failing eyesight! So I guess my preference would be for a "larger" 1/72 model or a "smaller" 1/35 which I guess would offer more detail.

That's a common misconception many folks - including me - can fall for. :upside:

Sure, the majority of parts on the larger scale kits are bigger, but you will find, especially with the better kits, that manufacturers will include tiny detail parts (things like hinges, handles, gunsights and even rivet and bolt heads) that are a similar size to the tiny parts on smaller scale kits - only there are usually many more of them! If you're not sure, try and find a parts count for the kit or pictures of the sprues. I'm sure I saw mention on here a few months ago of a 1/35 tank kit with over 1100 parts :astonished: (although I'm sure that included a full interior and individual track links).

You should also be aware of PE parts. Many of these can be really tiny and unbelievably delicate - they can be bent or blown off your desk for the carpet monster to eat just by giving them a sharp glance!

It seems that some manufacturers believe that a high parts count will improve sales - and they may be right. I personally don't see the point of breaking down easily moulded components into separate parts just to add to the parts count.
 

rtfoe

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Welcome aboard Stu,
Remember that Rome wasn't built in a day. Do you like constructing and painting, collecting or composition? These 3 could decide the kind of level or amount of parts of a kit you're going to purchase just like a jigsaw puzzle with the same picture. You either want a thousand piece set and slowly piece it for a longer period of time or a hundred piece set to finish fast and get on to the next one or set your finished jigsaw into an appropriate frame for display. Either one should achieve a sense of enjoyment only you will feel.
Like you I used to make a hash out of the kits in my younger days and enjoyed it immensely. Now I try to retrace those kits and hopefully with the skills adopted through years and forums like this to make them a bit more presentable enjoying it even more. :smiling2:
You already know the constructing bit from the younger days, now try exercising with hiding joints and glue then move onto filling and sanding then the next priming to get the basics of a good build going before moving onto painting.
Hope you find a suitable kit along the way. The first one is always trial and error and experimental so don't go overboard with a state of the art kind of kit until you're ready... perhaps maybe you could, who knows.

Cheers,
Richard
 

Bobby Conkers

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Welcome again.

You sound like you're in the same position as I was a little over a year ago.

I can't really help with which models to go for as I don't really do military. However, I can echo much of what has been written above.

The first model you do will be a disappointment in a year's time. That's simply because you will learn so much as you progress that it will be missing much of your new knowledge.

I've done five models since I've been on here. The first two look like they were done by someone else. In fact, on my Cutty Sark alone, it looks like two different modellers worked on it, simply because as I went along, I added new techniques I could have added earlier.

So, my advice is go simple early, and learn as you go. Choose a straightforward model, get the appropriate Revell acrylics, a basic set of brushes, tweezers, snips and glue, start a thread here and think about what you want at each stage. Then ask questions and you'll get, in my opinion, pro-level answers. Sometimes they'll be what you should have done, not what you should do. That new knowledge will enhance your next model.

If I'd started by wanting to do full weathering, wood effects, kit bashing and lighting when I started it would have been too much, and I might never have continued.

Most important thing is show your builds here as you're doing them. Advice is always kind, encouraging and motivating, not to mention interesting. This is not a 'normal' forum, you will not get negative criticism.

Pip Pip!
 
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Hi again,

...and thanks for the ongoing feedback...this is by far the most helpful (and prolific replies), forum I have ever been on!!

I have ordered a few basic tools as well. I seem to remember in my younger days it was all about getting the model bit, and maybe thinking about painting (badly) it when it was all finished!

I am amazed by some of the models I have seen on the website, and also on the various Youtube channels..."weathering" is definitely a skill I would like to learn at some point, but assume you need airbrushes for that, (and a far higher level of skill than I currently possess!)...
 
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"weathering" is definitely a skill I would like to learn at some point, but assume you need airbrushes for that, (and a far higher level of skill than I currently possess!)...

Not necessarily. Have a look through Ron's (spanner 570) work. All the weathering you'll ever need and not a blow pipe in sight

Yes you can do different techniques with an airbrush, but different doesn't always mean better. Just get a feel for what you like on your models, and don't worry too much about what others do to theirs.
 

Dave Ward

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Hi again,

...and thanks for the ongoing feedback...this is by far the most helpful (and prolific replies), forum I have ever been on!!

I have ordered a few basic tools as well. I seem to remember in my younger days it was all about getting the model bit, and maybe thinking about painting (badly) it when it was all finished!

I am amazed by some of the models I have seen on the website, and also on the various Youtube channels..."weathering" is definitely a skill I would like to learn at some point, but assume you need airbrushes for that, (and a far higher level of skill than I currently possess!)...
Stu,
an airbrush is a valuable tool, but it's not vital for producing weathering effects. Soft large brushes ( like a fan brush ) can produce the same finishes, but will take longer! Don't be tempted to buy expensive weathering products - they just aren't necessary. you can make your own! - much cheaper & you can tailor them to your own taste. After you've made one or two models - you can experiment on the early models, with various finishes ( I have a harlequin finished F-22! ). Asking questions on how other modellers do things is essential - you never stop learning!
Dave
 

spanner570

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Stu.
As usual all good advise from the lads.

Regarding weathering, don't get yourself bogged down by all the various techniques you might see on 'tinternet. Confusion will be your companion!

Some are unbelievably long winded and expensive. You won't necessarily need all these fancy filters and washes either. I just use a brush and try and keep it all as simple and straight forward as I can.

But, at the end of the day it's your model and your choice how and what to apply to it.

If I were to list a top ten of model making 'Musts', Number one would undoubtedly be - Have Fun!

Ron
 
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rtfoe

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The guys are right Stu, some of the things we do in weathering now are just the same as when we were doing ages ago. They now just come in bottled packages for the quick and easy learners but I bet you if you develop your own method and concoction is so much more fun. Yes the number one must is have fun. So don't be afraid to experiment and find your own way to apply a method of your own. Example a wash mix everybody seems to say is 10% paint to 90% thinner but you might find it more comfortable with 10.1% paint to 89.9% thinner. Whichever suites you.

It's also comforting to see someone applying weathering methods with a paintbrush and simple strokes. I know many think they have two left hands and we also assume that everyone can just pick up a brush and paint. Take a look at Michael Rinaldi's weathering on Youtube. He does it with brush and oils panel by panel...nothing fancy.

Cheers,
Richard
 
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OK, so my acrylics have arrived....I will do some googling as I have only used Humbrol enamels before....should acrylics be "watered down" before use...or do I need to get some thinners?
 

Archetype

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OK, so my acrylics have arrived....I will do some googling as I have only used Humbrol enamels before....should acrylics be "watered down" before use...or do I need to get some thinners?

Speaking as a Vallejo user, I would suggest thinning model color with water is fine for brushing. No need to thin model air.
For airbrushing you might want to thin (I do) and I would suggest sticking with branded thinners. I recently started to use flow improver instead of thinners which works better.
I have found that vallejo thinners work well with humbrol acrylics for airbrushing.

The problem is that thinning and ratios depends very much on your setup, so trial and error and making small adjustments will get you there.
 

Dave Ward

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OK, so my acrylics have arrived....I will do some googling as I have only used Humbrol enamels before....should acrylics be "watered down" before use...or do I need to get some thinners?
Stu,
before you get to actually applying paint - it can be helpful if you wash the plastic surface ( with soapy water ) & dry - this should remove any surface grease ( from your hands etc ), which could cause adhesion problems - this is the same for acrylics, or enamels. If a sprue feels particularly greasy - I dunk the whole lot in the sink with warm soapy water, rinse & air dry before taking any bits off, not only paint adhesion can be improved, but gluing as well. With some of the older models, especially the old Eastern Europe variety, I used an uktrasonic bath to get them really clean ( OK, a bit OOT! )
Dave
 
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Hi Dave, and many thanks for the top tip, I will wash the sprues first!! I will ask er indoors if I can borrow the hairdrier!!

I am hoping I can find something to practice painting on first....
 

Jakko

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I have ordered a few basic tools as well.
Whatever you do, invest in good-quality basic tools: knife (and spare blades), tweezers (both pointed and flat or rounded), a cutter (for removing parts from sprues) and a set of modelling files will get you a long way and last almost forever.

However, don’t make the mistake of thinking that good, expensive or exotic tools will make a good modeller. There are all kinds of additional tools you could buy, but most are only useful if you actually know you’ll use them. Stuff like punch-and-die sets, grab handle makers, photo-etch folding tools and rolling aids, seam scrapers, choppers, and all kinds of other stuff is out there, but you don’t need most of them — certainly not if you’re only just beginning to build models straight from the box. It helps to be aware they exist, so when you figure out that your current method is cumbersome, you may buy a tool to do it more easily. For example, if you find you regularly have to cut dozens of bits of plastic strip all to the same length, and are struggling to get them exactly the same by hand, a copper tool may be a good purchase for you. But until then?
 
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Hi Jakko, I found a basic set on Amazon for around £12 on Amazon that arrived today and seem pretty good (certainly good enough for me), includes cutter, knife, one file+ a couple of sanding boards, and 2 tweezers....hopefully enough to get me started.
 

Archetype

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That’s good advice re: tools.

You’ll realise quickly EXACTLY the tools you need once you get started, the. you’ll be able to make sure you only buy what you’ll need.
 

Jakko

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Hi Jakko, I found a basic set on Amazon for around £12 on Amazon that arrived today and seem pretty good (certainly good enough for me), includes cutter, knife, one file+ a couple of sanding boards, and 2 tweezers....hopefully enough to get me started.
11PCS Gundam Modeler Basic Tools? :smiling3: Regardless, it sounds like you’ve got most of the bases covered by what you say is in it.
 

Gern

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Hi Dave, and many thanks for the top tip, I will wash the sprues first!! I will ask er indoors if I can borrow the hairdrier!!

I am hoping I can find something to practice painting on first....

Old plastic pop bottles and food containers make excellent practise objects - and they're free! It's worth your while to get them clean first though as that will give you a better indication of how well the paint sticks and the finish you get.
 
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