Any recommendations for a decent filler .

JR

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Some figure modellers back in the day used to dissolve sprue in CTC (carbon tetrachloride) to a gel consistency and use it for joint filling and create textured surfaces like hair and lambswool saddle underblankets.
The last time I smelt that Noel was when my father used it to remove a mark on his uniform , reminds me of dry cleaning .

Nasty stuff carbon tet.
Pete
Tis indeed Peter.
 

Tim Marlow

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John,
You can apply PPP by paintbrush. You can thin the PPP to a thin slurry, with water & apply with a paintbrush - ideal for the joints in a wing root. If you apply the putty & allow to dry, you can remove a lot of the surplus, using a stiffer paintbrush & water. Wet the dried putty, and use the stiff brush to scrub the surplus away, it takes a few minutes for it to work, but once it starts........................
You do have to be careful not to take too much off, and allow it to dry before final sanding ( also don't thin it too much! ). PPP is never going to be as hard as other fillers, but it's easy and quick to use. Remember to clean the cap & firmly seal the tube - it can dry out very quickly.
Dave
Easier to clean PPP down with a damp cotton bud after application Dave. It can give joints that require no sanding at all that way. I used it for a while, but found it went off in the tube well before I had used even a quarter of it. If I could buy smaller amounts I would use it again, but the waste factor was too high for me.
 
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Airborne01

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I use PPP for small joints, such as arm/body junctions, but just smooth them off with a judicious swipe of a wetted finger! A old damp paintbrush cleans up surrounding areas if necessary, and then I paint the infill with Tamiya Extra Thin once happy with the result!
Steve
 
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JR

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Easier to clean PPP down with a damp cotton bud after application Dave. It can give joints that require no sanding at all that way. I used it for a while, but found it went off in the tube well before I had used even a quarter of it. If I could buy smaller amounts I would use it again, but the waste factor was too high for me.
Tim .Think mine has gone off as well , seemed good to use until then . .Back to Vallejo again for the moment .
 

JR

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I use PPP for small joints, such as arm/body junctions, but just smooth them off with a judicious swipe of a wetted finger! A old damp paintbrush cleans up surrounding areas if necessary, and then I paint the infill with Tamiya Extra Thin once happy with the result!
Steve
Thanks Steve, If I use it again I'll do that .
 

Tim Marlow

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The AK cellulose filler is good….the acrylic one is poor though.
Thanks Steve, If I use it again I'll do that .
PPP is great on seams and cracks. Absolutely useless on sink marks though. If you can find it, the Tamiya grey stuff is the best that I’ve used.
 

Mini Me

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John, I use automotive body shop putty. It is made by the 3M Corp. and is marketed under the "Bondo" trade name.....it is reffered to as Glazing & Spot Putty. This is a 1 part putty (no mixing) and comes in a fairly large tube....net wt. 4.5 oz. It is a top coat putty and is thin and easy to work with...sometimes more than one layer is required to fill properly. The good news is, the drying time is very short.....20 min. to a half an hour if its warm. If you replace the cap as soon as you have the required amount out of the tube it should last a long time. I bought my first tube close to 10 years ago...still use it, though it has thickened some over time it is still very manageable and now fills with one application. Oh, I forgot, I think I paid about $6.00 USD. Hope this helps.
 
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Noel
No worse than a lot of proprietary modelling products we all love and use Pete.

Way back it was used as a fire extinguishing agent in those little brass pump action fire extinguishers normally carried on vehicles. Used to carry loads of it around in my Mini Van when I used to service fire extinguishers. Great job for a single guy but poor pay. Had to look for something else at the time to earn enough to get a mortgage when I got married. Happy carefree days out on the road and great in the summer!
 
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Mini Me

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I had one of those brass extinguishers........my Dad got it during the war and it hung in the garage forever....never did use it and sure didn't know what it was filled with. Thanks for the info Noel. :thumb2:
 
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Probably a Pyrene as Tim said.
They were also famous for their sofa acid conical shaped fire extinguishers.
 

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Depends on how big the gap is (ooh missus) if it’s large then I use a+b epoxy putty, if it’s a small gap then I use Vallejo putty never had a problem with it to be honest, but may look up the deluxe material one.
 
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colin m

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A great thread on fillers. I really got on well with Squadron green, but it seems to have vanished, so I'm looking for a new go to filler.
 
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De Luxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty might just fill the bill Colin.
A nice filler, white and almost nil shrinkage.
De Luxe have shed loads of modelling stuff on their website.
 

JR

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I was referring to CTC in my last post on reply to Pete.
Yes , was great to free off the clutch on a Scammell, we would stop grab the extinguisher give the clutch a squirt from underneath and carry on . Of course this was not in the manual ;)
 

JR

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Some interesting makes used, thanks for all the replies .

I tried the PPP, good but when. I came to use it some months later ( The screw cap was properly on ) it was solid . So back to the Vallejo.
 

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Not sure if this has been mentioned, but uni fine uni bond polyester putty is very good. Filler comes with hardener, once mixed, apply to model and takes around 20mins to dry. Sand down, then spray. If unhappy with desired result ie if not enough filler has been applied then you can repeat process or conversely, if too much filler was initially added, it's jut a case of continually sanding down until desired effect. Good for trial and error.
 
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mg ork

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Forgot to say, as a warning it is very, very smelly! I tend to use it outdoors where possible.
 
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