Anything new for paint stripping?

[Dave Ward]

As a bit of a gamble I bought a 1/24 Revell BMW M3 off ebay - it said 'nearly completed' - got it for not a lot. WELL, when it arrived, I put it straight into the 'you must be joking' part of the stash. The bodywork has been painted black, with what appears to be a 1/2" brush in a sawdust factory! I don't even know whether it's enamel or acrylic - yet.
Before I start trying to remove this paint, is there any new miracle product available that will remove all paint without damage to the plastic? I know the Fairy Power Spray method, but has anything new, or a new technique been discovered/developed?
It looks quite a nice model, that may repay a bit of work - providing I can get that paint off!!
Dave

 

[stillp]

The best thing I've found is old brake fluid. Seems to lift the paint off better than Mr Muscle.
Pete

 

[Miguel]

Dave, if it's acrylic, Mr. Color Thinners works wonders and won't harm the plastic. I keep a large partly finished model to practise my airbrushing and every now and then I strip it back to the plastic after it has had several coats of acrylic. I don't use enamels so I can't help there.

Regards

 

[Neil Merryweather]

I've used Dettol successfully on VERY old Humbrol, admittedly matt, on a figure.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Caustic soda works. It’s the active ingredient in most commercial paint strippers. Buy it as drain cleaner….and wear gloves.

 

[JayCee]

If the paint is acrylic, pure alcohol will strip it straight off. Just a quick dunk and a light scrub with a toothbrush or similar. At least it has always worked for me.
John.

 

[Dave Ward]

Anything which is caustic, or going to produce fumes is problematical ( like the oven cleaners ) - I don't want to make my flat stink, or be uninhabitable! I've used bleach, but only in small jam jar sized sealed glass containers, but the car body is too big for them! Looking at the paint, I reckon it's acrylic. I've had the model for a few years, so it's had time to really go off!. The engine & suspension have been completed fairly well, but not painted. The model does have the option of an opening bonnet, but like all modern high performance cars, there's air ducting & heat shields covering the actual engine up - so the bonnet will be firmly closed, and makes the external finish even more important.............
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

This is the offending model........................


IF I can get the old paint off, I'll start a short blog........................
Dave

 

[adt70hk]

Good luck with it Dave!

 

[Jim R]

I wish you luck Dave. Can't add to the ideas you have already had. Let us know how you get on. I hope you find a solution as the kit looks interesting. Have the decals been put on?
Jim

 

[rtfoe]

Don't you have a balcony so you can spray smelly stuff from Dave?

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Ian M]

a cooker extractor hood should handle any smell from drain cleaner/caustic soda. put it in a plastic container though, not a metal one...

 

[Dave Ward]

I've been fiddling with the bonnet - tried IPA, didn't do a great deal, then reverted to elbow grease, fine sanding sponges and water. Even though this will take a bit of time, I think this will be the way forward. Even if I used some form of chemical paint removal, then I would still have to rub down the surfaces. I reckon a final finish with some crocus paper & water will do the job.
It looks like the maker had assembled the chassis & moved onto painting the bodywork - made a complete mess of it & abandoned the build! The transparencies & tyres are still in the sealed bags & the decals were preserved inside the instructions.
Dave
............and I don't have a balcony, or a cooker extractor hood!

 

[stillp]

The transparencies & tyres are still in the sealed bags & the decals were preserved inside the instructions.

That's a relief!
Pete

 

[PaulTRose]

definatly brake fluid...........get a sealable plastic storage box thats just big enough to put the bodyshell in.......pour in the brake fluid, put lid on and come back next day...........just wear gloves and scrub with a old tooth brush/wash with water............water will neutralise the brake fluid as its hydroscopic...................pour the container worth back in the bottle and save.......will last for quite a few body shells

only half an hour ago ive done it to a tamiya porsche 911 shell i messed up the paint on........not only took off the mr hobby aquesous but the primer as well

 

[Flip]

Dave,
I don't know if you still have this outstanding but I agree with Neil above.
Dettol (the proper stuff that says 4.8% Chloroxylenol on the front label), diluted 50:50 with water
{or any other own-branded product as long as it contains Chloroxylenol. If the concentration is different, adjust the dilution accordingly}
Mix up enough to completely immerse the part(s) overnight
Have fun with an old toothbrush the next day
Regards,
John

 

[Bugatti Fan]

Dave, when you said you tried IPA , I thought you must be referring to something other than beer!