"Back to Basics"

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Bunkerbarge

Guest
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The pastels suitable for weathering are "soft pastels". "The Works" sell small sets of pastels for £2.99 or £.99 in various "themes" the one that's best for weathering is called something like "autumn" or "earth" colours and is browns greys etc. Better value that shelling out for a larger set which is largely surplus....
Quite right Matti, the ones I have are "Alphacolor" soft pastels, made in Mexico and purchased in the US. They come in sets of tones and the one I got is called "Earth Tones".

I also have a set of Doc O'Briens Weathering Powders, purchased through "Micro-Mark" in New Jersey who take credit cards and ship internationally. These arec also particularly earthy colours. I haven't used these yet but I'm itching to have a go!!
 
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dhockey11

Guest
How about some filling advice? Like what to fill with? I am new to modelling and made a little more work for myself than really was necessary on my first attempt.
 
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Bunkerbarge

Guest
Thanks for the suggestion, I'll see if I can come up with something usefull.
 
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Antony

Guest
\ said:
If anyone thinks that "Back to Basics" is too basic please let me know. I don't want to embarrass myself by boring everyone!!
I recently returned to model making after a 30+ year gap. Ive gone right back to basics and am attempting to learn new techniques. So for me your "Back to Basics" articles are just what I need. Keep em coming please.
 
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Bunkerbarge

Guest
Thanks for the note Anthony. I need to have a think about getting something new on here such as the filling item I was thinking of. The trouble is I'm spending a lot of time building models!!
 
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G300PBV

Guest
\ said:
I recently returned to model making after a 30+ year gap. Ive gone right back to basics and am attempting to learn new techniques. So for me your "Back to Basics" articles are just what I need. Keep em coming please.
Likewise, I'm returning to the hobby after a 30 year gap. I cringe now recalling the poor stndard of finish I used to achieve with my model aircraft, so I too am 'getting back to basics'. This series and site is fantastic and thanks to all the experienced people on here who are posting such useful advice.
 
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Fenlander

Guest
I know this is quite an old thread now but, having just joined this forum as part of my comeback to modelling, I thought I would say thanks for a very informative read. Some really great tips here and quite a few things I may not have considered until it was too late.

Quite a few times you have asked if this was "too basic" well the answer is no, definitely not. It is a truly valuable resource, many thanks.
 
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wullieboy

Guest
I would just like to agree with Fenlander the info supplied here is just what us oldies need to do justice to modelling after the attempts of the past.

In my case me and my father would build models but not paint them!

They looked daft with the decals and no paint!!!

I've started again after 40 years.

Thanks .
 
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mikef350

Guest
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Well now that we have some of the tools in place and talked a bit about paint and glue lets look at taking those first steps and actually glueing some pieces together.Firstly one of the most important things for me, which also applies to so many things in life is preparation. Reading the instructions first may sound so blindingly obvious we all think it doesn't merit saying but it is the one most important thing to do. Read them at least twice and identify all the pieces before you even consider removing anything from the sprues. It may suprise a lot of people to realise just how many times pieces can look similar and end up being glued in the wrong place if they haven't been correctly identified first.

Next lay out your plot. Some of us will be lucky enough to have a place to work that can be left overnight but many of us will have to put things away again after a modelling session. (We all started there!) It is so important to keep a tidy work area that allows you to find all the important things quickly and efficiently. It is no good glueing two bits together than realising that you can't find the clamps you need to hold it together while it sets. So layout your work top so that you can find all your tools and pieces easily.

Assuming that you have everyting in place and you have removed two pieces from the sprues with your side cutters you are ready to start preparing the pieces for glueing. Obviously the pieces must be studied closely and all flashing, tags and seams should be carefully removed with a combination of scraping, filing, cutting and sanding. Time spent at this stage will reap benefits later when you come to paint the pieces and you suddenly realise that the seam stands out more than you anticipated after painting.

You must also prepare the pieces to fit by a combination of the above techniques. Once again do not cut corners here otherwise the two pieces when glued become animated with a mind all of thier own when they refuse to go together correctly. Getting incorrectly fitted pieces apart after the glue has set is not an option so the test fitting and preparation is of the utmost importance.

Once again preparation is significant so if you need tape, clamps, vices or any other supporting media get it ready and to hand before applying the glue.

Finally apply the glue to the two parts. Refer to the posting on glues to decide what glue is best for your application and put the two pieces together. If all your preparation has been put in place the pieces should go together easily, suport should be put in place while the pieces are left to set and the end result should be a strong effective and neat joint.

All that should be left o do afterwards is the minimum of cleaning up and, if it is a joint in two surfaces, the smoothing of the seam.

As with all modelling everything is part of a learning process but a bit of thought into some of these basics will help you to keep the mistakes to a minimum and keep a smile on your face.

Just remember that I do not offer any of these postings as a means of doing something, I simply pass on the results of my own learnings over the years, and, yes, I have made all the mistakes at some point or other myself!
first up WOW!

great thread my freind.it has answeared alot of questions i have due to me just starting out properly.you mention clamps for holding peaces together while they set?is the some thing specific i could buy?
 
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Bunkerbarge

Guest
Hi Mike and thanks for the note. Although I do have a number of clamps I invariably revert back to the same old thing and that is the good old fashioned clothes peg.

I have a metal hand vice that I made at college and quite often place my tweezers into it, you can of course use any bench top vice for this, and then clamp the tweezers with the wooden clothes peg. This arrangement can be moved around to get the best angle and then clamping with the tweezers is very accurate. I also use clothes pegs a lot for larger items as well as holding bits for painting so I always have a good supply to hand. Also selotape is useful for larger joints, such as a ships hull, but take care that the glue, especially if it is a very thin glue, doesn't seep between the joint and the sellotape and marks the surface.

As usual imagination and a bit of thought are more effective than all sorts of fancy gizmo's!!
 
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mikef350

Guest
do people paint the items on the sprue's?and i will have a few figures to paint soon and i was wundering if they need to be primed first,and i use the little tins of humbol paints,do you use the paint straight from the tin or is it worth thinning down a little first?
 
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Bunkerbarge

Guest
Painting on the sprue depends on the part and the colour. If you are painting a detail that is a different colour to the main body colour then it would be best painted sperately but if it is the same colour then you could paint it after it has been glued on.

Another tip here though is that I always remove items from the sprue then completely clean them up. Then I sharpen a bit of sprue, trim the end square and reglue it to the part on a surface that is not to be seen. For example a motorcycle engine cover will be held to the sprue by two or three tabs around the edge. If you painted this on the sprue then removed it you would have spots where the part was attached and then cleaned up where there would be no paint. If you sharpen a piece of sprue, then cut a small flat across the end and glue it to the inside of the casing after you have completely cleaned it up you will have a perfect paint job and you can hold the part with the sprue and a clamp or a clothes peg. Simply snap it off before you glue it to the engine.

As for figures I would always spray with a white primer first to get the best colour and adhesion and thin enamel down enough to not hide detail when you apply it but not too much as to reduce the opacity.
 
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Andy C62

Guest
Excellent thread for advice. I have just returned to model making after a break of 30 years. I have a number of models which will only be started when I have completed my first experiment a present from my wife, The Ark Royal. I have a Tamiya jeep set, I first did over 30 years ago and look forward to starting it.

Having contributed to other formums, with this advice being so essential for newcomers or returnees could I suggest thid thread be made into a sticky that always sits somewere prominent.

Excellent advice, thanks again

Andy C
 

flyjoe180

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This is just the sort of informative help I was seeking too, thanks guys. I'm also glad I am not the only big kid returning to the hobby after 20+ years!
 
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wbk666

Guest
I have a question that i think fits here. what glue should i use to fit the clear canopy on a plane?
 
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phalinmegob

Guest
you can buy specific glues just for this job such as humbrol clearfix, but i think a lot of people(including me)use bog standard pva glue as it shrinks as it dries and dries clear without misting the clear part.
 
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Deisenaut

Guest
This is a great thread - thanks everyone for the input and great to see it resurrected. Did I read somewhere that Klear will also work as a conopy glue?
 
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phalinmegob

Guest
i have tried using klear and it does work but i have big fat fingers and it did not take much to knock it off,also tried clearfix and wasnt happy with that either, maybe i am just a bit heavy handed.
 
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