Badger 100 brush

[T. van Vuuren]

Hi all.

I will be getting a badger 100 D/A grivity brush soon (0.3mm) and wondered what you guys have to say about it? I mostly do 1/48 planes.

Theuns

 

[Fenlander]

I have read some good reports on this, if it is the one I am thinking about. Is it the one with the trigger? If so, most reports say that once you get used to the trigger action, it works very well. Should be fine for any modelling really, no probs for 1;48 planes.

 

[T. van Vuuren]

I assume it must be the one yes. I will see when I go get it.

Theuns

 

[backonthecase]

Fantastic brush! I have this and a B200 - I hardly pick up the 200 these days.

With a fine head, great for detail and with a medium head assembly, good for area work as well!

Good purchase In my humble opinion

Stuart

 

[T. van Vuuren]

Cool ,can't wait to get it

Theuns

 

[T. van Vuuren]

I just got the 100LGF.

Tried it on some scrap to see how it works. The "overspray" edge is still arround 3mm wide.Can the size of this be reduced by reducing the presure I spray at? I tried it now at arround 2bar (PSI?)

The paint was humbrol that was thinned to approx concictansy of milk.The needle is a 0.3mm

Theuns

 

[Gern]

Hi Theuns,

2 bar is about 30 PSI which is awfully high for an airbrush. You can afford to reduce that quite considerably which will reduce the width of the 'edge'. A bit of trial and error is needed

for you to find the pressure and consistency that suits you.

Gern

 

[T. van Vuuren]

Ok , I will play arround with a lower setting.What is the ideal for this brush?

Theuns

 

[RM4U]

I just got the 100LGF.Tried it on some scrap to see how it works. The "overspray" edge is still arround 3mm wide.Can the size of this be reduced by reducing the presure I spray at? I tried it now at arround 2bar (PSI?)

The paint was humbrol that was thinned to approx concictansy of milk.The needle is a 0.3mm

Theuns

I use a compressor at full pressure of 4Bar which is 57psi and I don't have any problems whatsoever. The pressure that you use is all down to the actual job that you wish to paint and how close you want to get, and the amount of detail, and or special effects that your model requires.

I do use a MAC valve on some airbrushes I have that do not have a MAC valve on the airbrush and I can adjust the pressure from full to a wispher for stippling effects etc.

You acn buy an externam MAC Valve from Airbrushes.com :- https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?products_id=20652&osCsid=42b44fa91e22dc265d98142f7c32e490

Hope this hepls.

Leslie.

RailwayModels4U.

 

[T. van Vuuren]

I did some experiments yesterday

I took the line restrictor from a IV drip line and uded it to adjust the presure at the brush.If I go to low the paint starts to splutter and does not atomize.I got the setting about right for a start. It is all down to practise now.It seems that no "acurate" feather edge can be obtained from a .3mm brush at 48 scale , some masking will be required to do it "correctly", I will however use the excuse that the painter on the full size missunderstood the "directions" given :-D

Theuns

 

[RM4U]

I did some experiments yesterdayI took the line restrictor from a IV drip line and uded it to adjust the presure at the brush.If I go to low the paint starts to splutter and does not atomize.I got the setting about right for a start. It is all down to practise now.It seems that no "acurate" feather edge can be obtained from a .3mm brush at 48 scale , some masking will be required to do it "correctly", I will however use the excuse that the painter on the full size missunderstood the "directions" given :-D

Theuns

Hi Theuns,

Can you tell me, do you have an example of what you want to achieve. A photo or point me to an image on a website. I will then try and help you get what you want from your Airbrush.

The splutter you are getting is (as you have found out) due to the low pressure. It is used as a special effect. However, if you need to get in close to the model for very fine lines or an area such as the size of a pin head, then the pressure adjusted to a wispher when in close will not form a splutter and will antomize enough to paint these very small areas; which is not possible at higher pressures.

Regards,

Leslie.

 

[T. van Vuuren]

Hi Leslie

Thanx for the help.

This is what I need to do ,see pic.The size of the fan that I can get without spluttering is arround 3-4mm wide.If I go closer to the model the effect looks worng and to far away mkes the line t5o wide. I am looking at the pic and it seems that I mighr need a smaller needle/nozle or need to do a "standoff" MASK.(I don't realy want to and thought the freehand would work, but allas............

I will do a P-40 freehand just to see the effect and re-do if nesessary.

On a 48 scale plane the total overspray line is actually just 0.5mm wide, I don't know if any airbrush can do that!

Theuns

View attachment 24325

 

[stona]

Hi Theuns,Leslie beat me to the "sputter" answer! When I sprayed enamels I could go as low as 12-15 psi for close up stuff. I found at 1/48 this gave a reasonable feathered edge on a model. Scaled up it would be far to large a margin but that's all part of the art versus realism question.The allowed feathering on a British WW2 aircraft (from the factory or an M.U.) would SEEM like a hard edge at 1/48.

I sprayed the camouflage on my 1/32 Fw190D (for the group build) entirely freehand. You should be able to get a line about 1-2 mm wide with a bit of practice.Some people can do even better but I'm not one of them!!! Play around with the distance you spray from. When working very close I tend to reduce the paint flow and build the demarcation up gradually. One of the great things about an airbrush is that if you b*gger it up you can revert to the other colour and (with patience) make an invisible fix or just tidy up the edge to get it how you want it.

For the allied disruptive patterns,as on the P-40, raised masks may give the best results. Luckily for me the Luftwaffe (particularly late war) often had more loosely applied schemes and I've got the pictures to prove it LOL.

Cheers

Steve

View attachment 24328

 

[T. van Vuuren]

Looking good Steve!

Yes I believe that only time will teach me how to do it well.What do you guys do when it comes to the cammo edge, do you first spray the outline of say the particular collour and then fill it in or do you do the "pach" and then finetune the edge to it?

Theuns

 

[stona]

Hi again. I generally spray the lighter colour approximately,not worrying to much about the exact edge. On smaller scales (1/72) I may spray the entire model in the lighter colour. I then spray my demarcation line with the darker colour and then carefully fill in behind it. I always make mistakes and have to come back to the previous colour and make,shall we say, adjustments! I'm sure that there is no right or wrong way and that others will use a different system. You'll have to find what works for you. When I do spray that demarcation line I always make sure that I have my reference or instructions to hand and have where I want to spray fixed in my mind. I've never been able to mark out the pattern in a way that didn't later show so if anyone has a system please let us know.

Cheers

Steve

 

[T. van Vuuren]

Cool ,I will give that a go soon

Theuns

 

[Fenlander]

I agree with Steve, freehand the lighter and then use the darker to concentrate on getting the shape right. I tried using a soft pencil on a couple of models to mark it out but you can still see the lines after painting. I have never tried a 1:72 but all my 1:48 are freehand, the only masking I do is to cover the under side lighter colour to prevent overspray where it is a hard edge but on a scheme like the FW190, it is fully freehand.

Just takes a deep breath, a steady hand and a bit of confidence. Remember that if it goes belly up, the spray wold be fine enough to re prime and have another go. If you are not sure, practice on a large plastic milk bottle (if you have them out there)

 

[RM4U]

Hi Theuns,

Both Steve and Graham have given you the best advice. I weather Model Locomotives and wagons and the only time I have ever camouflaged anything was in the Army where I had to use a 6" brush and camo a Landrover.

Steves example looks absolutly great (well done Steve).

My advice would have been to use a very fine needel and nozzel setup and a practice panel, with the pressure reduced moving in slowly until you have the right effect both the pressure and distance from the model is trial and error.

Aluminium Practice Panel from Airbrushes.com which is white 40cm x 30cm which can be drawn on with a pencil making a grid to practice lines and filling in the squares. The panel can be cleaned with IPA 170 (Isopropyl Alcohol) also available from Airbrushes.com or Maplin in the UK, or any other product that will remove paint; like thinners white sprit etc and then re-used. They also do a Black coloured panel of the same size.

It sure looks like you have the right people helping you now.

Regards,

Leslie.

 

[T. van Vuuren]

I took an old 1/72 stuka to practice on and it will get better with time and effort.

I am no river counter, so it actually doesn't matter that much if it is "wrong" just aslong as it looks cool.

Good one Graham, yes we do actually have plastic milk bottles here in darkest Africa, paper ones too LOL! That is if we don't get eaten by the lions that roam the streets on the way to the corner shop (sorry I couldn't resist)

I am on my way now to the model shop to see if I can get finer needle for the gun

Theuns

 

[RM4U]

Hi Theuns,

Let me know if you cannot get the spare parts and I will see if I can get them for you.

Regards,

Leslie.