Bobs StuG no 2 ! Tamiya 1/35 B

BattleshipBob

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Evening :hugging-face:

Just started a second Stug and yes its that old favorite the Tamiya B :thumb2: Got two in the stash and the other one has the full Eduard PE sets with it, but this one is OOB

As the majority of StuGs used dark or panzer grey its about time i had a go at this colour, going to show a well battered one so started by thinning the front fenders and bending them a bit, not sure if its ok??

Stug b Gb 001.JPG
Stug b Gb 002.JPG
Made up wheels / sprockets etc and its about 80% done , the superstructure is loose and leaving the interior

Going to try weld seams, shell impact damage and lots of dust and muck
ta bob
 

Gauge1TrainsDK

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The plastic bending looks fine to me. Did you pre-heat it?
 

BattleshipBob

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Tried heat but just turned the plastic all gooey, useless. So scraped the plastic under the fender then bent, twisted with flat face pliers, need more practice me thinks?
 
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As the majority of StuGs used dark or panzer grey its about time i had a go at this colour
I had to read that a few times for it to sink in. Really surprised you haven't already done a grey one as I thought it was pretty much the standard colour for them. So much so that I haven't even considered anything but grey. I'll find any excuse to do a camo scheme :smiling5:
 

BattleshipBob

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I have done a few but usually as new but time to show a battered one.

Done a lot of G in tri cammo
 

BattleshipBob

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Thanks Scottie, time to get out of the comfort zone:worried:

Next stop, first bash at weld seams then impact damage, should be fun lol
 

SimonT

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Tried heat but just turned the plastic all gooey, useless. So scraped the plastic under the fender then bent, twisted with flat face pliers, need more practice me thinks?
Heat, as you found, is not a good idea

The scraping very thin works well - thinner the better

BUT

Replacing with pewter and bashing the c*** out of it works even better :smiling5:
 

BattleshipBob

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Pewter, all new to me mr T!!
 

Steve Jones

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Its a strange metal Bob, whose whereabouts is only known to a chosen few on the dark side

I am concerned that with a month gone on your GB you have only just started your second Stug. If your gonna do the 27 you said you would then you need to get a move on mate. LOL
 

BattleshipBob

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27!! is that all, must start on shifts Steve :dizzy:

Had a go today at weld seams, shell impact damage and a knackered headlight bit of a clean to go but very interested in your opinions :thinking: .

remember be kind lol

ebay jan 01 018.JPG
ebay jan 01 019.JPG
ebay jan 01 017.JPG

getting there, me thinks

bob
 

BattleshipBob

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Thanks Scottie

Need more practice, but about time i left the old comfort zone:upside:
 

JR

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Sir Bob thank you for showing a mere mortals what the track shield should look like when fitted.
That white weld line looks good. As for the hits I saw the other day that if you push the end of a brush into the impact and then twist it around, remove and add a little cement to the area it will give a realistic spatter effect on the area. Not tried it myself yet but it looked effective on the Y tube video.

 

BattleshipBob

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Hi John, i followed YT vid. Used a drill to do a Shallow hole, cleaned with tamiya extra then a small amount of filler. Waited for a few mins, used the other end of a brush and gently pushed in. Cleaned up excess and repeated if not good, finally cleaned up again with tamiya. Used old mantlet to practice, not there yet, but will also try bullet holes.
 

Steve Jones

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Great work on the weld seams Bob. Did you use a pyrograph?
 

BattleshipBob

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Thanks Steve, another YT trick! Our tv has YT so spent some time watching this and that and of course loads of StuG stuff:thumb2:

Used plastic rod, put tamiya thin on top then point of a knive to gently cut into it quite hard to see the effect but much to learn
 
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Looks great to me Bob. I fancied a go at weld seams after watching his video on the subject, but I think I'm deep enough into this one as it is lol
 
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The one I watched was by Martin Kovac / Night Shift. He actually did it with epoxy putty but mentioned the stretched sprue / styrene rod method
 
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