Brush painting a 1/48 Bf109E-4 (Helmut Wick)

spanner570

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When I posted my finished SBD-3 Dauntless thread on here a couple of weeks ago, some members asked if I would do a tutorial on how I brush paint all my models.

As we are all here to learn from one and other and I am flattered that people think my painting good enough for a tutorial, you are cordially invited to come along.

So what follows is aimed at raw beginners and is my way of doing it.

Please remember, there will be others who do it differently, so here goes....

My Rules

Always use good quality brushes, cheap ones are a waste of time and will ruin your model. I only use 5 brushes for each medium, Acrylics and Enamels. For large areas I have two nice flat heads No.6 and an old 3/8" which is around 10mm across. The remainder for detail are pointed. No.000,1 and 4, that's it. Don't overload yourself with too many brushes, you don't need them.

(John has some nice one's in the shop)

Respect your brushes and treat them gently. Clean them thoroughly, don't stub them whilst cleaning or ruffle the bristles the wrong way. Clean them in warm soapy water and rinse, then allow to dry naturally. Don't use a cloth, you will get bits on the brush. You won't see them, but you will when you do your painting!!

I won't be using masking tape on the fuselage. (only for the cammo on the wings) I use a fine, soft lead pencil line. That way a hard edge is avoided and makes blending in easier. I did this freehand method on the Dauntless where a tight curve would have prevented me using tape anyway!

Attack the painting head on. By this I mean DON'T FIDDLE! Use a full brush and get the paint on quickly, don't mess around.

Always use thinned paint. Thick will drag and gather in corners. Two thin coats are better than one thick. This method also helps retain the panel lines.

Use the correct thinners. I use either Humbrol's own, or turps for Enamels (I can't tell the difference in performance between the two, so take your choice)

For Acrylics, I use distilled or tap water. Again, I see no difference.

I said this last year in a thread, always paint light colours first. These are easier to cover with dark colours than the other way round.

The Subject.....

The seed for this was planted in my head by Steve (stona) when I read a thread where he described a Bf109 done in a unique stipple rather than the normal heavier mottle.

Thanks to him I found out the aircraft belonged to one Helmut Wick, who, during the Battle of Britain in 1940 became one of the leading aces in the Luftwaffe.

So this aircraft will be the one we will attempt to paint. I don't know how the 'Stipple' will turn out, fingers crossed!

I thank Steve for answering all my questions with his usual patience and good grace. I couldn't attempt this without his great input. Thanks to him I now know a fair amount about Wick and his machine.

Steve, if you read this and want to add more history about the man or his aircraft please feel free to do so.

The kit is a 1/48 Tamiya. I won't go into the cockpit build as this is really an exercise on painting the outside of the aircraft.

More to follow soon....I promise far less reading in subsequent posts!

Ron

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M

markg

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Thanks Ron for taking the time to do this.

As one noob modeller who likes to brush paint, this is great to see. Looking forward to more class :smiling3:
 

stona

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I've been looking forward to this since I knew you were going to have a go at it.

For those unfamiliar with the scheme,the stippling on the original aircraft was applied using some kind of brush and I don't think there is any way of replicating it except by brush. I made a very unconvincing attempt at it many years ago but I expect this will be different,if anyone can do it then Ron can.

Cheers

Steve
 
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Caledonia

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Thanks Ron for the time and effort you are putting into this, looking forward to the second Part. Cheers Derek
 
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m1ks

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Very good idea, i've never been great at brushing and would welcome tips on improving brushwork, even if only for those fiddly little bits.

While I love the finish an AB gives there are times it'd be nice to make a tidy looking model with an analogue brush not a digital one :smiling3:
 

Ian M

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Oh Looking forwards to this.

I would just like to say that is one spotty aircraft!!!

Ian M
 

stona

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Here's a measure of the challenge ahead!

First a close up showing this type of stippling as well as nice details of the hood, hood locking handle,armour and armoured windscreen.

And secondly an image showing "how they did it"

You can see the original high demarcation line between the RLM 71/02 camouflage on the spine of the aircraft and the Light RLM 65 on the sides which has been stippled with a darker colour,probably RLM 71.

I'm not sure what's going on with the rudder!

I've had a look on my HD for a picture of this remarkable airman looking a bit cheerful but smiling wasn't his thing! I found this one on t'interweb.

Cheers

Steve
 
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spanner570

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Thanks a bundle Steve. People are not supposed to see the stipple that close up!! lol

That second picture is one of loads you kindly sent to me and we discussed the rudder painting via P/Ms. I am convinced the painting on the bottom has been done very roughly with a roller.....

Second lesson tonight will be preparation, priming and application of RLM65 to the underside and fuselage.

Cheers,

Ron
 

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Hi Ron,

Perhaps this is a bit off topic here (if so please shout) but since you mentioned "hand made camo" I would like to ask you how you do it?

I did my first one few days ago. I know the pics are not the best but hopefully they show my work.

I'm not very happy with the work done and no doubt I need to improve it (was only the first attempt anyway). My question is how do you draw the camo lines and get a nice pattern? For the one in the foreground I designed the lines with a pencil and then paint them over. For the one in the background I just painted as it is not flat. I don't have an airbrush (only a spray gun) but maybe next time I try with masking tape or blue tak.

Also I just gave it a coat of Klear (new formula) and intend to give it a matt varnish coat after trying some washing on it. As I want the model to become more opaque, are there any other tricks to loose this brightness?

Thank you.

Cheers

AC

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spanner570

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Post away AC, no problem.

From what I can see your cammo looks fine. When I want to dull down anything I use Dk. Grey acrylic, very, very well thinned and just paint the whole thing with it. When you give the model a coat of matt varnish won't that dull it?

As far as I'm aware there is a set pattern for cammos, depending on the aircraft so it's just a matter of copying that. For armour, I don't think there is a set pattern, my knowledge is very limited on such matters and I really don't know for sure.

Where aircraft are concerned. If it's a straight hard line cammo such as this 109 we are painting then I use masking tape. For 'bendy' cammo such as a Spitfire then I use a soft lead pencil and just paint slightly over the lines to create a soft edge with the subsequent colour.

Sorry I know nothing about masking using an air brush or spray gun. Your best bet would be to open a new thread and ask for advice about this subject and cammo patterns too. That way you will get a more concise answer.

I hope this helps answer your questions.

Cheers,

Ron
 

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Thanks for being kind enough about my cammo :smiling: and, of course, for the answers. Will try to check the dark grey acrylic although I'm just fine tuning my skill in thinning the paint. I might try the matt varnish and see how it goes.

Thanks again
 

spanner570

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O.k. hands on the top of desks where I can see them! No sniggering Wilkinson!

All the filler work is done so lets paint the primer coat.

I use my flat head no.6 brush. I use Humbrol grey primer in a tinlet thinned down to the sort of thickness that lets it flow easily. I don't know what percentage the mix is, it just feels right. One thin coat is sufficient. Don't bother with masking the cockpit, just try and cut in as neat as you can.

To apply I start with the underside and work along underneath to the fin, then go along the top of the fuse. and finish on the top wing surface. Work quickly. When doing the wings, lay the paint on in various directions. Then to finish, work from the centre to the outside edges. Going from the edge in will certainly result in runs under the wings due to the paint being dragged off. For the final primer finish I lay the paint off in the direction of the wind flow. That way, if any marks are visible, they can be hidden with dirt streaks when weathering! Of course you are not going to get any unwanted marks , are you?

When done, check for runs, particularily under the edges of the wings and fuselage. Instead of brushing on the primer, good results can be had using Halfords grey acrylic spray on primer.

Some modellers don't bother with primer, the choice is yours!

Next comes the RLM65 Lt. Blue. Humbrol Matt Enamel, nicely thinned. No6 brush again... Rule? Two thin rather than one thick. The method is the same as priming, but obviously we won't be doing the top wing surfaces ect.

You will see from the pictures I have not bothered being neat where this colour ends. (The engine cowl, wing roots, wheel wells and the top of the fuselage) It is imperative that the paint is put on quickly, fiddle about and you are lost 'cos the paint dries very quickly and will drag so there is no time for neatness, that will come with the darker colours later... Remember the rule? Light colours first.

Two coats will be needed. (Leave over night between coats) and where the colour ends, 'draw' the paint out to nothing with the brush otherwise you will get a ridge where the paint ends.

Ensure the paint covers all the wing edges. Again don't worry if it goes up and over onto the top surfaces, just lay it off nice and smooth using the same method as the primer coat.

Finish in the direction of the wind flow as before...

That's it for the Lt. blue. Cammo next and here we start to get neater with our painting and, as the cammo is straight lined, use masking tape.

Cheers,

Ron

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Bf109E-4  Helmut Wick 001.jpg

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spanner570

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Mornin' class!

Next stage is RLM02, the top cammo.

Because I am stippling the final finish, I have done the cutting in along the fuselage free hand after marking the line with a pencil. This avoids a hard line and allows for a bit of wobble. which I prefer anyway as once the stipple (Or mottle for that matter) is applied the finished paint job is far nearer the actual pictures of 109's I've seen because most demarkation lines are barely distinguishable....However the choice is yours. Use masking tape by all means.

A little trick, before applying the tape, pull it through your fingers a few times. This makes it far less sticky and less likely to remove paint. Remember, just because you have used tape, that doesn't mean the paint can be put on anyhow, try and be as neat as you can at the tape edge and blend the paint to the edge rather than stopping abruptly. Go at it like a bull at a gate you will get a ridge of paint and some will get under the tape (See tip below) Remove the tape straight away.

Before you start this phase, get a fine paint brush, dip it in thinners and remove most of the liquid. Should you paint where you shouldn't, carefully run the brush along the line to remove the paint. Don't use a cloth!

After marking or taping up your model, mix your paint. I start on the stablizers first to make sure my mix is correct, then I do behind and in front of the cockpit, finishing off with the main wings.

The technique is the same as the underside, but on the main wing leading edge we need a good, realistic finish between the underside and top two colours.

So once the paint is laid off, take your brush and......The best way to explain is to imagine you are painting a wider surface than you are, and forgetting the leading edge is there, allow your brush to flick off the edge of the wing. This leaves a great finish. A sort of hit and miss, weathered effect straight away!

Turn the model over and check for runs.

That's it for now, next up we will do the RLM71, the Dk. Green cammo.

Thanks for looking in.

Ron

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spanner570

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Pay attention Scott.......Don't do that, it's not nice!

The upper cammo. Dk. Green.

As straight lines are required, this was done with masking tape. Don't buy cheapo tape, the edges are far too rough and I can almost guarantee paint will seep under the stuff. get proper modelling tape.

As before pull it through your fingers first to remove a bit of 'sticky' ( You can get less sticky ready made!) lay it on and stick well down the edge to be painted. Don't bother with the other edge.

When applying the paint don't paint towards and over the tape, but go along the seam and then brush away from it, this lessens the chance of paint creeping under the masking tape. Remove the tape straight away and check your work. If required remove 'Runs' with your damp turps brush....

You will notice I have applied the cammo edge on the fuselage in a slight stipple. This is done to make the final Stipple finish easier to blend in.

The pictures are not quite the actual colours!

Don't worry if it looks a bit rough around the edges...That's the idea, particularily now, thanks to Steve (stona) I've seen pictures Of Major Wick's Bf109!!

That's it for this stage of the cammo.

Next the yellow engine cowl, rudder and spinner.

Thanks for looking in.

Ron

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Bf109E-4  Helmut Wick 008.jpg

Bf109E-4  Helmut Wick 009.jpg
 

stona

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That is looking very good. Bring on the stipple!

Cheers

Steve
 

spanner570

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Thanks Steve, that's the bit I'm trying to put off!

I have pushed on and done the yellow bits! Straight forward, free hand painting. The yellow was a bit too yellow, so I added a very small amount of red to tone it down a bit.

Something I should have mentioned at the start of this thread is the fact that the end result will hopefully be a well battered and 'Used' Bf109. So if anyone is expecting a pristine, factory fresh look, I'm afraid you will be disappointed. I have put this in because on these pictures you will notice the paintwork is not smooth and uniform. This is an intentional effect. (Honest!)

I want a chipped and streaked look. That is why I have done a sort of 'Hit and Miss' effect on the Dk. Green to start with, also the stipple will cover most of the Lt. blue on the fuselage sides anyway, so spot on flat painting was not required.

The yellow engine cowl has had only one coat as I am happy with the streaky look this has given. The jury is out as to whether it gets a second coat.

I will let it all dry overnight, check it over, then a coat of 'Klear'

Steve (stona) informed me that the stippling was done after all the markings were applied so I will do the decals first ....Then into the unknown we go with the stippling!!!!!!!!!

Thanks,

Ron

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stona

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Worn is fine. Look at the cowling from this JG53 aircraft

Original camouflage is showing through as well as the overpainted red band the unit sported (controversially) for a period.

Cheers

Steve
 
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