Building the Westwings Dornier Do.335 & converting to micro radio

wonwinglo

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The Westwings series of kits for rubber power are well known,you can still find these kits around despite the company winding up some time ago,the basic kits form the basis for extensive reworking into something more exciting,I want my models to fly longer than a few minutes and above all I want to fly them myself ! gone are the youthful days when my knees would sustain a cross country run to retrieve a model now it has to land at my feet which it does do.

Having converted many of these small models to micro radio in the past it is now getting easier with tiny servos and 1S batteries that give adequate power on small outrunner motors,so now it was time to build the Dornier Do.335 Pfiel which means 'Arrow' this sleek and somewhat huge aircraft had been under development for many years prior to WW2 in fact Dornier built a small light aircraft to test out the front and rear engine principles with great success but few could have realised in years ahead the aircraft would have been developed into the huge aircraft it became.

So back to the model,the rubber driven kit is fairly flimsy in places requiring some between stringer planking a tedious but rewarding task that strengthens up the fuselage threefold,some areas were planked with 1/64th balsa,I make my own by taping 1/32nd sheet to glass and sanding to wafer thickness a messy job for outside this is then fixed into place with aliphatic resin adhesive my favourite glue for building models,it does not warp and grabs instantly but unlike cyno can be moved around for a while,other areas are sheeted with cartridge paper stuck into place and treated with banana oil that stiffens up the paper.

The nose area requires a ply bulkhead to fix the outrunner and access holes need building into the model for things like the battery,ESC and receiver,for the access holes a simple box is made first from balsa,then the structure is cut into making the boxes a tight fit so they become part of the structure,holes are made for wiring and pushrods.

A beefy wing spar is built into the existing wings,everything is pre planned and retro fitted as you go along,like everything once you have converted one it gets easier in planning things,I will post the photographs and explain as the model is assembled.

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Assembled and ready to go the Do.335 awaits finding a suitable runway.

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First you need to cut out aset of parts from the marked out sheets,take your time and do a few a day until you have a full set,make the slotswith a suitable warding file.

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The traditional keel is built up carefully,a small square is your best friend.

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Balsa infills around the nose area,everything is sanded and carefully filled with micro balloons.

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Construction and beefing up of the wings with 1/64th leading edge sheeting and extra spars,diagonal bracing adds immense strength and very light.

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Trial fitting the wings and in this view you can see the motor screwed into place,tail surfaces are sheeted with 1/64th.

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Making up the undercarriage legs and fairings from card from a chocolate box,torque links are thin card soaked in cyno,plastic wheels have a balsa disc centre membrane.

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Tailplane is split to incorporate the elevators,once built it is sheeted both sides.

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Same with the fin and rudder,the complex engine ducting is fashioned from soft balsa blocks,very vague on the plans but reference to photographs gives the idea.

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Sitting outside after a good sanding down,cockpit detail has yet to be added in this picture but was made from carved pink builders foam found in skips.

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The original cowling was easily modified to fit over the motor,you can see the original rubber powered nose buttons to the right.

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Stalky undercarriage just like the full sized aircraft which operated from rough aerodromes.

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Good view of the engine side air scoops and raked forward nose leg.

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Exellent cut away showing rear engine shafting.
 
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JR

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Modeling at its best Barry, how long do you think that would take to build ?
 

JR

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Two weeks Barry ! It'd taken most modellers more like 2 years :surprised::smiling3:
I like the way you work over the scale drawing, pinning as you go. Just normal PVA or the rapid type ?
 

wonwinglo

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Two weeks Barry ! It'd taken most modellers more like 2 years :surprised::smiling3:
I like the way you work over the scale drawing, pinning as you go. Just normal PVA or the rapid type ?
Two weeks Barry ! It'd taken most modellers more like 2 years :surprised::smiling3:
I like the way you work over the scale drawing, pinning as you go. Just normal PVA or the rapid type ?


Many adhesive types used but my favourite is Aliphatic resin,Everbuild 501 & 502 are cheap PVA's for laminating work,balsa cement for workshop vintage smell but it has poor adhesive qualities unless pre glued,cyno use with care it kills model builder's use outside,UHU Por for foam work.

That was a slow casual build,no hurry.
 
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