Christian's Dragon 6860 1:35 Stug III Wittmann Barbarossa build

Gauge1TrainsDK

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
298
Points
43
First Name
Christian
Man, this took longer than expected to get started for me! Work priorities, other builds (especially: Hobbyboss 1:35 Brummbär and finishing Dragon Flak 37), and apprehension about the many mods this build requires to original Dragon pieces kept me at bay. Looking through a lot of my other Dragon Stug kits, the heavy amount of mods go way back.

As usual, the Dragon pieces are beautiful with sharp details. I had a few flashy parts on the V-sprue so far, otherwise things look good in that department. There really is not a lot of filing to be done apart from removing sprue attachment residue, which is one of the reasons I usually like building Dragon models so much.

Having started the build, I have to say that so far (which as you can see below is just part of the hull, up to and including step 3 of the instructions), the mods are not as bad to do as I expected. We will see how this presents itself as the build goes on, as I have to cut e.g. the barrel and remove a length of that. ("Smart Kit - made for modelling enjoyment!") Seriously...

For the first time, I had to cut and fit four round plastic pieces to resemble bolts, on the hull itself. Not something I expected to go well, but I feel it actually did, and the result can be seen 4 and 5 images below.

I have a hard time understanding why the rubber parts of the wheels are not separate pieces, as this would save a lot of precision brush work without the need to buy accessories such as masks.

IMG_1065.JPGIMG_1664.JPGIMG_1673.JPGIMG_1674.JPGIMG_1712.JPGIMG_1713.JPG
 
Last edited:

Gauge1TrainsDK

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
298
Points
43
First Name
Christian
Unfortunately, I got the wheel bars wrong. This was not helped by the Dragon instructions being incorrect, in that it shows the outside slot pointing upwards. It should point downwards. This confused me, and so I got this wrong on my first wheel bar construction ever. Hopefully, this will not prove a big problem for fitting the A4 pieces, as seemingly only a few of them are visible. Perhaps I can cut those that are visible into shape, and leave the rest off?

IMG_1711.JPG
 

Steve Jones

Steve Jones Scale Modelling Site
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
6,698
Points
113
Location
Plymouth
First Name
Steve
Great to see you back on the forum Christian. Seat front and centre for this one. Decided on the finished paint scheme yet?
 

Gauge1TrainsDK

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
298
Points
43
First Name
Christian
Thank you, Steve :smiling:

Actually, this version only has monotone grey variants in the instructions. Don't know if later schemes existed of the III a, but in the end it's our models.

I look forward to doing a grey one, though. I havn't made a lot of those, I believe only a Panzer II, C7P and a schwimmwagen.
 

Gauge1TrainsDK

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
298
Points
43
First Name
Christian
...and I intend to be able to field at least two longer and one shorter army train:

1. Panzer grey vehicle theme, early war.
2. Tri-tonal, middle and later war.
3. North African. With weathering a steamloco as sand dusty. When I do eventually get to that one day, it's going to be really cool looking, I think!!! At present, however, I don't even know which Deutsche Reichsbahn loks were actually operating in that theatre. This will be the short train, as I intend to weather the wagons in sand dust as well, so they won't fit in many other places or uses.
 

Gauge1TrainsDK

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
298
Points
43
First Name
Christian
Assembling the next bit, the backend of the hull, was more difficult than it needed to be, since the instructions forced me into trial-and-error mode. However, I managed to piece it together in the end, and I can imagine experienced Dragon stug-builders don't give it much thought as they go through this for the 17th time?

The chains dangling in the wind I am very happy with. It looks cool, I think, and I hope I won't be breaking them off when building, painting or weathering. Fingers crossed!!! :surprised:

thumbnail_IMG_1727.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1728.jpgthumbnail_IMG_1730.jpg
 

BattleshipBob

Bob, bob, bobing along!
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
6,181
Points
113
First Name
Bob
Always good to see a StuG! Cracking progress sir!

Ausf A, A2 and B also used a two tone paint job. 60% dunkelgrau and 30% dark brown RAL 7017
20200601_121645.jpg

Hope this helps?

I have the same A in Dunkelgrau and will do the two tone, and a A2 almost ready
 

Gauge1TrainsDK

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
298
Points
43
First Name
Christian
Thank you, Bob, for the pointers. I will do a monotone grey since I would like to see more of those on the train.

Do you know if the PE for the large back wheels (return rollers?) is supposed to be visible, blocking the holes on the wheels? The pieces are definitely shaped that way, but it was surprising to me.
 

BattleshipBob

Bob, bob, bobing along!
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
6,181
Points
113
First Name
Bob
Do you mean the large rear idler wheel, if so the PE is surposed to be the spacers used when they changed to a wider 40cm track

I left them off as you say they blocked holes, does not make any differance

Bob
 

Steve Jones

Steve Jones Scale Modelling Site
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
6,698
Points
113
Location
Plymouth
First Name
Steve
Great to have Bob along side Christian when building a Drug. Nice update
 

Gauge1TrainsDK

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
298
Points
43
First Name
Christian
Had a good time building one of the fenders :smiling:

Unfortunately, I could not see if parts A25 were supposed to go on, and if so how, when using part blue A40. Anyone know the answer to these two questions?

IMG_2011.JPG
 

Gauge1TrainsDK

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
298
Points
43
First Name
Christian
Second fender done - came up with a bid for the A25 piece placement for when the fender is up, but could still use a hint as mentioned above.

I am curious to see how it all fits together when going on the hull. The unclear instructions this time around are one of those which give Dragon part of its bad name.
IMG_2021.JPG
 

Gauge1TrainsDK

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
298
Points
43
First Name
Christian
Upper hull parts done, with all photoetch being very well behaved - once again had a good time :smiling:

One note: In step 13, there are no physical marks to show the exact placement of parts blue A3, 4, and 11. Shoddy, and demonstrates some of the low standards of modern Dragon.

IMG_2025.JPGIMG_2026.JPGIMG_2027.JPG
 

Steve Jones

Steve Jones Scale Modelling Site
Joined
Apr 27, 2018
Messages
6,698
Points
113
Location
Plymouth
First Name
Steve
Another great update Christian. Have you stated on the tracks yet or are they just the rubber ones?
 

BattleshipBob

Bob, bob, bobing along!
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
6,181
Points
113
First Name
Bob
Hi, i will have a look at your questions

Bob
 

Gauge1TrainsDK

SMF Supporter
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
298
Points
43
First Name
Christian
Thank you, Bob!

I would be curious to hear if you have experience with assembling the subbuilds at the end, cf. step 18 in thse instructions?
 

BattleshipBob

Bob, bob, bobing along!
SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 28, 2018
Messages
6,181
Points
113
First Name
Bob
Hi Christian

A25 is not used, D11 instead?

The storage boxs have no location on the fenders, they just sit between the last fender support and the rear lamp.

To build up the assorted fenders, superstructure etc i use small pieces of tape to hold together it is tricky!!

For future ref, the radio on the rear wall should be located close to the right, it was used by the loader. Only photo i can find shows it on a shelf
20200507_092302.jpg

Cannot find a lot about the radio??

And yes plans are poo lol

Hope this helps

Bob
 
Top