Covering up fuselage joints/lines

[AlanG]

Just wondering what most people do on here to cover up the fuselage joins on their models. I can never seem to do it without a feint line still being present and obviously paint just shows it up. I know you can sand it down but that can lead to a whole lot os detail being lost.

Any ideas guys (and gals)?

 

[Vaughan]

Hi Allyne

I too have the same problem. I have tried using plastic weld with some success you let the capillary action draw the glue along the seam. Then squeeze the two halves together. If enough is applied you will get a small bead which you can trim off with a new scalpel blade when the glue has set. You can also use filler if the seams don't match perfectly then sand down to level it but as you say you tend to lose the detail. The only way around this is that you will need to re-scribe the detail back. I've not tried this and don't have a scriber and templates but that would be an option. Some people use dymo tape as a guide for doing straight lines and use a pin in a pin vice to scribe it. I haven't tried this one either. If you do try the scribing method you would need to practice before trying on a model to get the technique right. I'm sure others on the forum will have some other ideas.

Vaughan

 

[AlanG]

Never tried rescribbing either and i have to say it scares the hell out of me thinking about it lol

 

[Vaughan]

I tend to agree with you there Allyne especially when you've spent a lot on a model.

Vaughan

 

[Ian M]

Vaughan has summed it up rather well in post #2. I think that a lot of us, me included are some time over cautious with the glue. That bead of plastic that oozes out is one of the things that will give a good seam. Another is giving every thing time to dry and cure 100%. Go at the seam to quick and even though it looks and feels smooth you still get that annoying ghost seam!!!!

The loss of surface detail is going to be a problem what ever you do. I guess that we need to confess to needing to add scribing to our skill sets.

Perhaps one of the guys that can do it will be kind and give a little demo.

I have tried a few times with simple panel lines that have been sanded out, but whole panels and the such is also beyond me. I think its the thought of not only doing it badly but also in the wrong place that worries me the most.

Getting back to your original question Allyne, I have found that I get a better result with one of the thicker clues such as revell contacter and going for that bead. Now all I need to do is figure out how to stop sanding flats into the nice round profile of a fuselage......

Ian M

 

[Caledonia]

I use squadron white putty; I put some on a cotton bud and fill the gap/seam roughly. When its dry ( after about 15 minutes) I use a new cotton but dampened in Acetone based nail varnish remover and gently wipe off, taking care to wipe across the seam. Had plenty of practice rescribing panel lines on my Airfix 1/48 Buccaneer, used Tamiya's Plastic Scriber II. If a ghost of the original line still existed I used very light strokes untill the depth needed was reached. If there was no ghost, I used PVC electrical insulation tape as a guide. You need very little pressure as the tool is sharp. I often mask either side of the gap/seam with Tamiya tape in order not to loose adjacent detail when filling in. Cheers Derek

 

[tecdes]

I have been gutted on my first five models to find the seams shining through like a full moon on a clear night. They stood out like moon beams.

The latest a Mosquito 1/48 not a seam in sight. This time over the moon. Sorry ! Pity the rest of the model is not the standard I wanted but that is another story.

Got most of it from Mr Flory.

Used for the first time Tamiya Extra Thin Cement with the capillary method. This I found to be a revelation as fitting everything together with tape before glueing allows better & precision fitting or at least getting the better option with ill fitting pieces. Also found that the joint is much better although care is needed or the glue will migrate to areas you do not wish to glue. John in the Shop does all the Albion range which includes glue, applicator & bits & pieces to apply the glue. The Albion glue is similar to the Tamiya one above.

This still leaves you with the seam to contended with. I got Mr Surfacer 50 1000 & 1200. All of these are applied with a brush. 500 being the thicker filler & most useful. The others are I have found for really fine filling. Apply coat on coat as required to fill. You will loose panel lines. Have to admit there are not so many on a Mosquito with the ply construction. Mr Surfacer is available in Hong Kong via Amazon. From memory about £5 per pot.

Next comes a bit of destructive work. Main thing I have found is to use abrasives which retain the shape of the fuselage otherwise the result is awful. To do this I have used again Albion abrasives. The Flexi File System which is perfect for retaining shape when filing & also the Foam Back Sanding Blocks which come in different grits. John stocks the Flexi FIle but not the Sanding Blocks. Used the blocks to give a good start & finish with the flexi file.

You may then need to apply more surfacer & repeat the process. The Mosquito joints (Revell) were terrible in places but the above was a sucess.

Then you need to scribe lines again. Needs practice & I still need it. Found one way was applying a vinyl automotive tape which has a good thickness to guide the scriber. The other was to use templates for straight & curved panel lines again John in the Shop has these. I have a Tamiya scriber which allows work in difficult to get at areas & also a scriber marketed bye Bake Metal Foil & Hobby Co. The latter is better as it cuts the surface rather than dragging the plastic.

For visual of the above techniques go to - Flory models Home. I have found here some very good tuition videos. But you will need to pay a subscription monthly £3 to watch the Tutorials. £3 covers all the tutorials & there are hours of the stuff.

Laurie

 

[snapper41]

I found this a really helpful link:

AeroScale :: Reading the Seams

 

[CDW]

for smaller seams you can use tipex (the white paper correcting fluid)

It sets hard, excess is able to be taken off by a chisel type scalpel blade (saves sanding out all the detail) and it's a good enough key to be able to paint over.

@ Ian .... if you place a block of plastecine behind your sand paper it will conform to the curve of the fuselage when you press it down, then carefully sand away as usual.

 

[AlanG]

Many thanks for the replies guys. Loved the link Snapper. Will have to try and get some of that Mr Surfacer

 

[Ian M]

A-Ha! Plastecine! Why didn't I think of that. Good tip I will give that a try one day.

Ian M

 

[noble]

What i have a tendancy to do with seams where there is fuselage detail is this, where the panel lines are that go round the fuselage are i wrap masking tape at either side ofthem the carefully fill them with masking fluid, allow this to dry then apply a good bead of super glue down the joins in the fuselage. Once dry carefully sand where the super glue has been applied then when you are happy remove the masking fliud with a pin.

scott

 

[Caledonia]

Hi Allyne, Have you seen this web page? Cheers Derek

AeroScale :: Reading the Seams

 

[mossiepilot]

Hi guys, I;ve been using pound shop "tippex" to fill a wing root seam but when I sand it down it seems as if the "tippex" has "bridged" the gap instead of filling it and its still there. What am I doing wrong, please help. Don't want to use the CA and talc route as I'm not that confident yet.

Cheers, Tony.

 

[stona]

How big is that gap Tony? Tippex is only good for really quite small gaps. You might try a putty like Tamiya's though all putties shrink and you might need a couple of goes. For bigger gaps an epoxy like Milliput might be the answer. Ultimately you may even need to use some plastic card or stretched sprue to lay in to serious chasms before filling.

I understand your trepidation about using CA and talc or baking powder,it can go wrong quickly but it is a good method for small and medium gap filling. It also adds strength to the join,something putties or Tippex don't do.Except on small gaps I tend not to use water thin CA but one of the medium viscosity ones. These are easier to control and I'm less likely to glue myself or the neighbour's cat to the model The powder you can chuck everywhere as it only sticks in the glue and you can simply blow or brush the excess away. Give it a go on something unimportant,an unwanted drop tank or bomb is ideal and you can artificially make a gap to fill. You'll be surprised how easy it is.

Don't forget to sand straight away!

Cheers

Steve

 

[tecdes]

Now have a stock of plastic cards of different thicknesses. If I get anything other than a minor crack, so to speak, I cut a slither of card the required thickness. Also used oblong plastic & shape where one end is bigger than the other.

Great satisfaction when the infill fits snuggly may say a smug feeling.

Being a close fit I use thin Tamiya cement and then use Tamiya liquid filler to finish the joint.

Had massive problems on the Revell Mosquito & this worked perfectly without the sign of a join. Does take time & immense care though to get it right. It is I found a couple of days effort. With intervals of course : for tea.

Laurie

 

[mossiepilot]

Thanks guys, the gap is only a mm or so, but runs the whole width of the wing, which is, I think, why the "tippex" is not sinking into the gap. I think I'll try the stretched sprue trick as my confidence with CA isn't up to speed. I'm trying out different glues at the moment and my only experience of this is from one build, the Typhoon, and I scared myself when doing it. But the advice on trying CA/talc on a scrap piece is good, I never really thought about practicing new skills on something I would throw away, its a bit of a new idea. I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Tony.

 

[AJay]

1) I use thin Tamiya tape to mask the seams (a piece either side) and then apply Tamiya filler.

Once it's dried fully, I wet and dry the filler until I can run my finger across the fuselage and not feel a ridge. Losing any surface detail is hopefully avoided by masking as close along the seam as possible, although sanding will eventually 'scruff' up the masking tape. When this happens simply apply more tape over the original.

2) Another method is as mentioned by others: Glue the two halves together and allow a small amount of glue to ooze out (not too much mind), and then mask off along the seam before sanding down as above.

3) An old method I used was to run super-glue long the seam and then sprinkle some (was it baking powder or talc?..I can't quite remember), but basically this almost immediately dries the glue which can then be sanded down straight away (remember to mask the seam as above if doing this).

4) Vallejo putty has been of questionable use to me. I use it on hairline cracks only, and even then it sometimes breaks away..........not any good for a nice strong fill.

As with all methods, once I'm happy the seam is filled, I brush some grey Vallejo primer along. More than not there's still a faint line still showing, so I repeat my chosen method until happy. At least by brushing primer along the seams it saves me the aggro of airbrushing the whole model only to find I've wasted hours....grrrrr LOL

 

[CDW]

A method i've used in the past that gives a little more strength.

If you get a thin slither of balsa wood and squeeze it in the joint then apply super glue all along, it will harden and become quite strong. it's able to be sanded but you'll need wet and dry type paper.

Probably not the best solution if there's detailing next to the join but if a strong seam is needed then this works a treat.

 

[Deisenaut]

Guys - can someone possibly give me a dummies guide to using plastic weld - i've looked at loads of threads and sites, am I right in thinking that I get the dry fit perfect, then hold the 2 halves of the fuselage together with no glue or tape, and the nose up / tail down vertically (almost) and then just let a bead of weld run down the length of the join using capillary action, so obviously not squeezing too tight until it has run the length, and then squeezing tighter to get a bead to form on the surface.ThanksMike