Craft Tools

[Vlada011]

Hello, I'm new in world of modeling, actually I want to start to build scale models for few months after I prepare everything I need and learn a lot about different stuff before I start with my new hobby.
I'm interest to build in 1/48 scale. (bad because some vehicle is available in 1/35 only, 1/72 is too small). Only Modern USA/NATO jets, helicopters, tanks, missile systems, etc...
I search specific kits only with marks of US Air Force or US Navy or US Marines and have question about basic and absolutely necessary tools.

I looked tools brand Tamiya, their tools are expensive but I will invest if they worth?
Do you agree with Tamiya tools or have some observation.
My Tamiya Craft Tool list is

1. Sharp Pointed Side Cutter 74123
2. Angled Tweezers 74047
3. Modelers Knife Pro 74098
4. Extra Thin Cement (Quick Settings???)
5. Cutting Mat A3 74076
6. Basic File Set Smooth - 74104
7. Model Cleaning Brush 74078
8. Masking Tape 6mm + 2 pcs - 18mm + 2pcs
9. Fine Pin Vise D-R
10. Fine Pivot Drill Bit 0.5mm

If you think that I need maybe and Straight Twizeers, different size of drill bit, something else or maybe I don't need something from list I would appreciate advice.
I'm more to pay better tools once and than for 10 years, not 20$ kits of low quality stuffs or complete of 10 different tweezers or knifes, etc... I hope I don't need bunch of tools.

My plan is to invest around 100 euro for tools, 300 euro for Iwara airbrush (plan to find some discount for Iwata HP C+ but that's on other place.)and Unknown compressor and than to start models.
I research about models I want and write on paper recommended kits for specific model.
Like I sad I still read because I need to choose enamel or acrylic colors, brand of colors, Revell or Tamiya or ....

Sorry for my English it's not native language.
Thanks.

 

[Jim R]

Hi Vlada
Welcome to the forum. I am sure you will enjoy your time here.
Tamiya tools are generally good quality and readily available in most countries although I don't know about Serbia. Some of the things on your list like tweezers, the cutting mat, model cleaning brush, pin vice and drills you could probably get cheaper but still get good quality. I would invest in Tamiya side cutters, cement and masking tape as I think they are the best. You are right to buy the best quality tools you can afford as it is difficult to work with poor equipment. Once you have a basic tool kit you can add things as you need them.
Most modellers have their own favourite range and type of paints. I think that Vallejo acrylics are good and are readily available. Vallejo Model Air are good for airbrushing and Vallejo Model Color is good for using with a brush.
Above all take things slowly and enjoy the hobby.
Your English is fine so no worries there.
Jim

 

[Gary MacKenzie]

I have the following from Tamiya , and all worth it.

Extra Thin cement and Normal
Half round diamond file @ https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/diamond-file-for-photo-etched-parts-tamiya-74066
Pin Vice
Pin drill 0.5 mm

My cutting board is made by ''space fly'' , but i would buy any make of mat , cheapest self sealing one available
I use green painters masking tape , which is pretty good , but believe tamiya is very good, just not tried it yet.
My compressor was bought from John's shop , an AS-189 Airbrush Compressor ( Fenghua ) , and an Iwata neo airbrush from amazon.

With an airbrush I like both tamiya and vallejo paints , i find tamiya acrylics less usefull if using a brush.

I bought a JLC razor saw , and it is the best investment i made.
My sidecutters @ https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/economy-sprue-and-plastic-cutter-modelcraft-ppl6703

I use knife handles and blades from both lidl and aldi own brands , and are as good as any mid range knifes.

As Jim said , your English is fine , better than any second language i ever did.

 

[AlanG]

Cannot add more then what the guys have said above. So all i'll say is. Welcome to the forum. Hope to see some of your builds soon.

 

[Jakko]

I looked tools brand Tamiya, their tools are expensive but I will invest if they worth?
Do you agree with Tamiya tools or have some observation.

If you can buy tools from a shop or at a convention (or some other place that’s not online or mail order), it’s simple: pick up the tool, and if it feels like good quality, it probably is good quality. Poor-quality tools will feel cheap.

Unfortunately, of course, this isn’t an option if you can’t buy them locally.

5. Cutting Mat A3 74076

I don’t know what this costs, but you can buy good cutting mats from almost any office supplies or hobby/craft shop. They are very likely cheapr than Tamiya’s. A3 id a good size, though — I wouldn’t use anything smaller.

10. Fine Pivot Drill Bit 0.5mm

Better buy a set of twist drill, something like this:

These cost anywhere between maybe €7 and €15 per box (depending on where you buy them and what quality, exactly) and give you a wide range of drill sizes.

If you think that I need maybe and Straight Twizeers

I myself prefer straight pointed tweezers over angled ones, but it’s very much personal preference. If you think angled ones will be easier, buy those

I'm more to pay better tools once and than for 10 years

I agree completely. Good quality tools will make your life easier, and they will last (almost) forever.

Like I sad I still read because I need to choose enamel or acrylic colors, brand of colors, Revell or Tamiya or ....

Acrylics are far easier to work with than enamels. My main advice is to not limit yourself to a single brand, but buy some different ones to see what you like. Some paint brands are better for certain things than others, for example: Tamiya acrylics work well in an airbrush and (if you ask me) also for brush-painting, but most of them are difficult to drybrush with — whereas Revell, for example, does work well for drybrushing and brush-painting (but I’ve not really tried spraying them).

Sorry for my English it's not native language.

Obligatory response: better than my Serbian

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Vlada
Welcome aboard....
I agree with a Jakko about the drill bits, and would recommend a good pin vice to go with them. Small drills are fragile, and this set up is the most flexible when you need to replace broken bits. I would also recommend Swann Morton scalpels rather than company modelling knives (if you can get them). They are by far the best quality around with the widest selection of blade shapes.

 

[Jakko]

I would also recommend Swann Morton scalpels rather than company modelling knives (if you can get them). They are by far the best quality around with the widest selection of blade shapes.

I looked up the Tamiya one, and it seems to be their version of the standard X-Acto knife, with what looks like X-Acto standard blades. If it only takes Tamiya blades, then indeed, it’s not your best choice, but if X-Acto-type blades fit too, then I’d say it’s a good choice.

 

[JR]

Valda.


Срдачна добродошлица
hope this is right , had to Google it

Welcome to the forum, plenty of help offered as you have seen so not going to add .
Your English is fine .
John .

 

[Vlada011]

Thank you very much on your answers. I decide than to stay with tools I listed in first post.
What can you tell me about Acrylic or Enamel paints or simply buying paint in Spray as Revell-Tamiya.
Reading about specifications and behavior of colors Enamel is maybe best choice.
Because I want to build jets, tanks, armor personnel carrier and don't need glossy finish like people who build cars example.

How much painting with brush could be close to airbrush? I mean maybe brush leave more marks and don't look so nice on closer look.
For Airbrush I only know I want gravity dual action with fine and medium details for painting but that cost, Iwata I want is around 200$. Mostly I will buy parts in UK-Germany.
Biggest doubts are about paint type, brand and airbrush/compressor type, model or brush. Example some model I want need Tamiya TS-46 Light Sand and no same color of other brand in Enamel paint. What people do in such situation, when schematic of their model say TS-46 M1A2 Iraqi Freedom example and you started with Tamiya or Revell Enamel paints.

In my country are only available Revell Enamel and Acrylic. 1.5-2 euro per color
That's significant investment because I will read manuals of models I have listed and than write color I want and order 20-25 colors at once, only colors I need.
Preparing need more time than I thought.
First model I start is easiest
Revell MQ-9 Reaper 1/48.

 

[zuludog]

I like Swann Morton scalpels; a size 3 handle with 10 and 10A blades, which I think is a popular combination.

Have a look here - www.scalpelsandblades.co.uk. I don't know for sure, but they will probably sell for export if you contact them
They have all sorts of scalpels and craft knives, just look through their website, including offers.
Good value for money would be a taster pack, which has a handle and one of each type of blade, so you can try for yourself before buying a pack of many blades

Have look around a lady's cosmetic department or a pharmacy at the first aid section. There will be nail or manicure boards, tweezers, small scissors (for cutting decals), and cotton buds

 

[Vlada011]

They are probably great quality but I don't plan to cut corpses or operate people.
On Amazon I saw good pack of 7 professional tweezers... and cost same as one Tamiya.



Piergiacomi KIT7 there is and KIT4. One is 27 euro, other is 20 euro.
But Tamiya made specific for models.
Why Tamiya cost so much, Revell 39063 set cost only 5 euro. Tamiya same stuff would cost 60 euro.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Vlada
Out of those tweezers you have shown, I use only number 7 and number OO. I’ve got a couple of others but never use them. With respect to the scalpels, it’s not about corpses or surgery Swan Morton blades are a whole level above anything else you can buy. The finish is superb, they have a finer cutting edge so they cut cleanly and easily, and they are actually cheaper than most “hobby” alternatives. They also hold their edge longer and are less brittle so don’t snap or lose the fine tip in use. A number three handle and number 11 and number 15 blades will do everything you ever need and more, and as they are sharper you use less effort to use them, making them less likely to slip, so safer in use. Don’t get the sterile ones though, just the bog standard unsterile blades. They are identical apart from not being sterilised.

 

[Jim R]

Tim is right about the scalpel blades. I buy boxes of 100 quite cheaply. I change the blade regularly as a blade needs to be sharp to work well.
Jim

 

[zuludog]

As I mentioned, look through the website for size 3 handles and various blades to fit, including their sale and offers section. They have various packages available, including, I think, a pack of number 10, 10A & 11 blades. That would be as good a place to start as any

Also Search YouTube for 'scalpels' to see them in use for modelling and fitting the blades

They are good quality tools. I am still using size 3 handles that I bought with my dissecting kit when I studied botany at university over 40 years ago - though I have fitted some new blades since then!

 

[Tim Marlow]

I have three basic number three handles (picked up from work when we went fully disposable about twenty years ago) all fitted with different blades, and also two retractaway number three handles housing my most used 11 and 15 blades. I also have one of the acrylic handles as they can be less fatiguing if you are making many cuts. Currently it’s fitted with a number 10 that I use for cutting etch parts off the fret.

 

[Vlada011]

You think on this Swan Morton Modelcraft

https://www.amazon.de/Modelcraft-PK...&pd_rd_i=B06ZYLRH6H&pd_rd_r=34f5657d-57e7-11e

or

Swan Morton ACM Handle No 1 with ACM 10 and ACM 11 Blade.

Most of time I will use Tamiya Cutter 74123 and than Tamiya Smooth Files Set 74104 to polish.
Scalpel for really small parts and just as you see I need HG Angled 74047 and HG Straight Tweezers 74048, nothing else. I hope with them I will be able to install decals without 74052 tool.
Thin Cement non Quick Settings and that's it. People constant talk about Reverse Tweezers, they cost more and I don't know how often I need them.

 

[zuludog]

Either of the knives will do the work, it is a personal choice - whether you prefer the round handle of the ACM, or the flat handle of the scalpel
My choice would be the scalpel & blades you have shown from Amazon

The ACM looks similar to the Xacto brand. I think they would be cheaper than the Tamiya if you want a round handle

I have never needed reverse action tweezers; the two you have listed would be good enough

As with any hobby you can spend and spend, and collect many tools and items of equipment
As you are new to modelling I suggest you start with just a few items, and understand how to use them, and if you like them. Then in the future you can add extra tools as you need them, based on your own knowledge and experience

Model making is like sex - the only way to learn it is to do it!

 

[Jakko]

People constant talk about Reverse Tweezers, they cost more and I don't know how often I need them.

I have a couple, both pointed and with flat jaws, and I use them mainly for holding small parts when painting them, or to keep parts off the table while the paint or glue dries. I don’t think you could use them for actual work.

Edit: I just remembered I’ve got a picture in another thread that shows (more or less) what I mean:

These are parts for an F-16, missiles that I converted into smoke pods (the model is of an airshow demonstration plane), and I had to make the fins myself and glue them on. By using the locking tweezers shown in the photo, I didn’t need to rest the parts on the table while the glue on the fins dried. (By the way, to give an idea of size: the missiles/smoke pods are about 45 mm long.)

Aside from this kind of thing, though, I don’t think locking tweezers have all that much use. You can probably have a long and happy modelbuilding career without ever needing one.

 

[JR]

I have a couple, both pointed and with flat jaws, and I use them mainly for holding small parts when painting them, or to keep parts off the table while the paint or glue dries. I don’t think you could use them for actual work.

I agree Jakko , I have two sets and use them for the reason you do.
Though not important in the sense of " what tools do I need ," but more how good they are for a simple job.