Dambusters Lancaster BIII

[Bobby Conkers]

Hi all.

Am knocking this up having been given it as a gift. As I've said before, military isn't really my scene, but this seemed a good and straghtforward one to try out a few techniques new to me.

Also thought it would be a good way to get criticism of my current techniques. Am not giving it as much care as usual, but if anyone has comment, I'm very thick-skinned so don't hold back please.

My method is, fairly simply, read instructions through several times, and paint on the sprues. I'll then put it together, touching up where necessary as I go. Very hamfisted, and I know a lot don't go that way. So, if not, why not please?

 

[Jim R]

Hi Andrew
Iconic aircraft that's for sure. Builds up into quite a big model even at 1/72.
From the start of construction I always plan the painting as I go along. I like to build as much as possible before painting. The reason for that is twofold. Firstly any sanding needed does not damage already done paintwork and secondly I find it almost impossible to join ready painted parts without glue marks.
Following with interest.
Jim

 

[boatman]

YEA Jim you are right there build before paintin but for me do it in sections like fusealarge an then wings an such as you say when joining the parts togeather there is nearly always a high seem that's got to be sanded down so bang goes the paint
chris

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Ok, so up to now I've used a different method. As I don't airbrush, usually I can avoid painting the joins. I also don't sand (which may be controversial) instead I scrape paint away from joins using a blade. Also, because I am quite cack-handed on painting, the danger of painting over other parts is very high.

For glue, I use superglue with a brush. For someone with such a lack of dexterity for these things, I've found it the best solution.

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Here's the pre-painted stuff anyway. Actually, on this one, fuselage will be done when constructed, no way it would match if I did it apart.

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Anyway, first up I'm going to try out a bit of drybrushing on the inner fuselage - if I mess it up it won't show!

Before:

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Ok, not bad, probably had still a bit much on the brush as it's come out a little too even. I cam see how the effect will be nice on other models though.

 

[boatman]

Andrew I see you brush on super glue to glue the joints now on here I think in the chitchat thread its all about wearin safety glasses so please wear them not tryin to tell you what to do but I an some other's have had some very nasty accident through not wearin safety glasses an getting super glue in the eyes so we hope you do not make that mistake as afore warned afore safe an the lanc build look great so far an I'll be following your build
chris

 

[Deleted member 7181]

I'll watch along with this.

My son bought me a 1/72 Revell Lancaster for Christmas. Its probably pretty much the same kit so I can see what's in store for me.

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Don't worry about the safety Chris, I'm all over it. Used to be a cabinet maker back in the day - am actually more concerned about flying plastic when snipping sprues!

 

[Bobby Conkers]

I'll watch along with this.

My son bought me a 1/72 Revell Lancaster for Christmas. Its probably pretty much the same kit so I can see what's in store for me.

You'll able to see exactly what not to do!

 

[boatman]

Don't worry about the safety Chris, I'm all over it. Used to be a cabinet maker back in the day - am actually more concerned about flying plastic when snipping sprues!

well all the more reason for glasses Andrew
chris

 

[Bobby Conkers]

I use anti-fog goggles, skin tips (for fingers) and a mask if doing close painting. I won't go into detail about what happened in our workshop many years ago, but it left a guy with no second chance. Since then, safety first. If anyone needs some advice on where and what to get, and when to use it, I'm your chap!

 

[boatman]

I use anti-fog goggles, skin tips (for fingers) and a mask if doing close painting. I won't go into detail about what happened in our workshop many years ago, but it left a guy with no second chance. Since then, safety first. If anyone needs some advice on where and what to get, and when to use it, I'm your chap!

GREAT SPOT ON Andrew lets hope others think safety as well
chris

 

[Bobby Conkers]

Ok, some advice please. Given that I'm hopeless at fine detail painting by hand, how would you advise I go about painting this:



to look like this:



I just can't do fine detail, am too wobbly handed.

 

[PaulTRose]

Ok, some advice please. Given that I'm hopeless at fine detail painting by hand, how would you advise I go about painting this:

to look like this:

I just can't do fine detail, am too wobbly handed.

if you are wobbly handed you are buggered.....need to use masking tape to leave the frame exposed so you dont get paint on the 'glass'......or buy a proper mask set if someone makes one which makes it easy

 

[Bobby Conkers]

if you are wobbly handed you are buggered.....need to use masking tape to leave the frame exposed so you dont get paint on the 'glass'......or buy a proper mask set if someone makes one which makes it easy

Foiled again. I was hoping there was some miraculous cure for massive hands. I shall experiment...

 

[Jakko]

Cover the whole canopy in masking tape and then cut out where the frame is. This is usually much simpler than trying to cut masking tape the size and shape of all those little glazing panels.

Also, once you’ve got the canopy masked, paint it first with the colour that the inside of the frame is to be (British cockpit green, I suppose) and only then do the exterior colour over the top of that. This way you’ll get the inside to look right too, with only one round of masking.

 

[PaulTRose]

just make sure you use a brand new sharp blade if you try that method

 

[Tim Marlow]

If you can get it, use pre cut masks from eduard or such like....the cost is far outweighed by the time saved.....