Decal help

Peej

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Been looking at the various solutions to help with decals so they fit the contours of panels etc but all I have managed to do is confuse myself with which to get, so I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction please.
 
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Archetype

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I’m fairly positive everyone will recommend micro sol / set.
Whether you need both is open for debate I suspect!
 

Mr Bowcat

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Microsol/set for me. Used to use the humbrol one but found it ate into my paint. :sad:

I'd like to try the Tamiya solution, and the new one John is selling.
 
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minitnkr

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I mostly use Microsol/Microset, but still have a bottle of Solvaset, a stronger solution, for thicker/older decals. PaulE
 

Peej

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I have decided to order some 2 in 1 from John. It's my 1st order placed with him.:thumb2:
Has anyone used this product? I usually "klear" my builds before decals and was wondering if this would affect the solution. Thanks
 
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The best I have used & by far the best of the Micros & others.

Daco Products Decal setting. Brush the product on. You think that it is not doing its job. Come back
in half an hour & the decal has taken up the contour & deep contours.

The beauty of this stuff is that it does not wreck the decal which I have found the Microsols can do.

3 strengths are produced. But I only use the strongest & not had any problems with it.

For the decal placing I lay the decal down on a Tamiya decal board face down. Just give a fine
squirt of water no need to douse as that will lose the adhesive on the decal. Reluctant give another
squirt.

Slide the decal on the spot. Best not to wet the model just use the adhesive on the decal to slide
& adjust into place.

Wait for the decal to dry out before using DACO. If necessary, unusual, repeat a Daco coat.

Laurie
 

Jakko

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I too would recommend Micro Sol. I’ve also got a bottle of Micro Set but hardly ever find it to be useful — that is to say, I don’t really see what it does that the decal’s own glue doesn’t as well. Micro Sol, though, definitely does work very well to get decals to conform to compound curves and to fit over or into detail.
 

Tim Marlow

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I use sol and set as well. I find Set makes it easier to place the decal, putting it on the model first, then when it’s dry I use Sol to make it conform to the surface. Always thought Sol smelled like dilute acetic acid (vinegar) so I’m not surprised Barry’s tip works....
 
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stillp

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I tried white vinegar on the Airfix decals for the starter set GB (regular household item) and it didn't make any difference!
Pete
 
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wonwinglo

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Some decals take longer to soften depending on the latex ink content of the decal,all of these solvents are acetic acids in highly diluted form,they all work by soaking through the inks but obviously some decals are tougher than others ! remember to place a puddle underneath the decal first so it works upwards as well,then flood from the top,but remember do a test piece first on an old paint hack model to see how evasive the solvent is,best of luck.
 
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Some decals take longer to soften depending on the latex ink content of the decal,all of these solvents are acetic acids in highly diluted form,they all work by soaking through the inks but obviously some decals are tougher than others ! remember to place a puddle underneath the decal first so it works upwards as well,then flood from the top,but remember do a test piece first on an old paint hack model to see how evasive the solvent is,best of luck.

Actually DACO, no idea what it does contain, but it does not contain acetic acid Barry.
It has a pungent smell but definitely not vinegar Daco actually state that but not what
it does contain.

Daco also reacts in a different way to Micros & Vallejo types. Forgot to mention it above
in most cases remarkably Daco strong removes silvering with just the one coat. One of
the Vallejos, cannot remember which one is also quite good at de silvering.

Laurie
 

rtfoe

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I have always used Mr Decal Softener and it works for most decals. The only set back is that it reacts to Future and turns it white wherever it puddles. Its only a short scare as it disappears when a coat of Future is applied over it.
I don't use setting solutions as that's just the adhesive similar to white glue.

Cheers,
Richard
 

JR

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Oh , and here's me using Vallejo ! Am I missing something ?
 
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Oh , and here's me using Vallejo ! Am I missing something ?
Used it for a time John. There are two components from memory apply one initially then decal.
Wait until dry or near & apply the other one. I waited until dry.

Vallejo tells you to use them it order of name. But noticed that a couple of demos I watched
were using them vice versa.

The one used over the decal I found quite sucessful. It sank the decal into recesses etc. As
said before it did in a percentage of cases get rid of silvering. Carefull with thin decals.

I know I have thrown DACO into the mix above (bored every one) but not had any problem
with disintegration even thin decals.

Like all things we all grow to like our own system & routine. With new concoctions tools I
always have good experiment with old plastic decals pays dividends.

Laurie
 
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JR

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The only problem I've ever had was with some very old Allan decals, they fell apart as the water soaked in.
Don't think any thing could have saved them, those PARC ones were not much better, the strip started to drift apart as soon as the water soaked in.
I put them the wrong way around once as well Laurie, didn't seem to make much difference.:flushed:.John .
 

Jakko

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I’ve read tips in old magazines about spraying some varnish over old decals to stop them disintegrating when soaked in water.
 
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I’ve read tips in old magazines about spraying some varnish over old decals to stop them disintegrating when soaked in water.
Jakko Microscale produce a product for old decals. Liquid Decal Film. Paint it on & it hold, with luck, the decal together. Used
it once & it worked.

Laurie
 
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