Geoffers
SMF Supporter
It’s coming together very nicely Pete.
Geoff.
Geoff.
Dogfight double pt. 2: Gladiator
- Thread starter stillp
- Start date
That is correct. Called a shadow scheme, RAF Dark Green fuselage and upper wing with RAF Dark Earth. Lower wings RAF Light Earth and RAF Light Green.Interesting choice for a “simple” build Peter, a biplaneLooks good on the sprue though….
As to colours, I think, but I might be wrong, that RAF biplanes of the period had lighter versions of the Earth/Green colours on the lower wings.
Thanks Barry and Tim, but do you have any references for the use of that 'shadow scheme'? Air Ministry order A.926/40 para 6 (i), states that "The upper surfaces of all land planes... are to be camouflaged in the temperate land scheme". I can't find any reference to the shadow scheme in "British Aviation Colours of World War Two", published by the RAF Museum, Hendon.
Pete
Pretty comprehensive review of Gladiator Camo schemes here Pete….
Looks like not all used the two tone scheme, but some had it on the lower sides as well as the lower wing. See the illustration of the 247 squadron aircraft for an example.
Camouflage and markings of Gloster Gladiator
by Rick Kent Gloster Gladiator in Profile Throughout aviation history, few aircraft reached the level of design elegance equal to that of British biplanes at the peak of their development in the 19…
www.ipmsstockholm.se
Comprehensive Tim, but is it correct? Call me a cynic, but I think the RAF museum is more likely to be correct than IPMS. The only 'official' reference I can find to the light earth/dark earth/light green/dark green is in Air Publication 2656A, published October 1944, which states "Biplane trainers and communication aircraft should be camouflaged as follows: (i) Upper surfaces (a) Top planes: Dark earth/Dark green, (b) Bottom planes: Light earth/Light green (ii) Undersurfaces: Yellow".
It then goes on the state that aircraft previously painted in any other approved scheme are not to be changed unless specific instructions are issued.
I note also that the IPMS document shows a Gladiator of 112 Squadron - like the one I'm modelling - in dark green/dark earth only.
Pete
It then goes on the state that aircraft previously painted in any other approved scheme are not to be changed unless specific instructions are issued.
I note also that the IPMS document shows a Gladiator of 112 Squadron - like the one I'm modelling - in dark green/dark earth only.
Pete
You can be as cynical as you like Pete. It’s your model
Well, with apologies to Tim and Barry, here it is in dark earth/dark green
I used vinyl camo masks from Top Notch, which worked pretty well considering the number of lumps and bumps on this aircraft. I'll leave that to really cure for a day or two, then start trying to fit the upper wing and the interplane struts. Expect some bad language...
Pete
I used vinyl camo masks from Top Notch, which worked pretty well considering the number of lumps and bumps on this aircraft. I'll leave that to really cure for a day or two, then start trying to fit the upper wing and the interplane struts. Expect some bad language...
Pete
All looking great Peter. I've rigged a few WW1 bi-planes, but in 1:48 scale were I make eyes to attach the rigging to. Unfortunately, in 1:72 I find it's just a case of a load of blind holes and very careful application of CA glue. I have tried 'zip' kicker in the past, but don't bother these days.
Thanks Tim, I was also thinking of applying the decals to the lower wing, and maybe attach the rigging to the lower wing before assembly. I'm thinking that the second end of the EZ-Line will be more difficult to attach, so if I mess it up the mess will be less visible under the upper wing.
Thanks Colin - which CA do you use? I was going to use gel with kicker, but I've just found out my kicker has dried up so I might try with a fast-set CA.
Pete
Well, I've spent an hour or so practising gluing EZ-Line to some sprue. Absolutely zero success, with 4 different brands of CA. I can get it to stick a length of EZL to a bit of sprue, but I need to glue the end of the line into blind holes, so there's no way to put pressure on it to start the CA curing.
I'll try to find some activator tomorrow, maybe if I dip the end of the EZL in activator it'll work.
Pete
I'll try to find some activator tomorrow, maybe if I dip the end of the EZL in activator it'll work.
Pete
I've used ZAP CA, thin in the past. I've just checked mine, it's solid ! As I think you've discovered, a thick super glue offers too much resistance. With the thin stuff, you can push the EZ line etc, into the hole, and drop a tiny amount of thin CA onto the hole, which will wick its way into the hole. Then breath on it. Apparently the moisture in your breath can accelerate hardening of the glue.
Sounds like a good plan Colin. I also huff on thin CA to get it to go off. Never yet used accelerant. The moisture in your breath catalyses the reaction necessary for it to set.
I don't recall were I learnt the breath trick, so it might have been you !
Perhaps we learned it off of each other Colin LOL….
Picked up some thin CA yesterday, and made myself an applicator:
I've drilled some tiny holes in a piece of sprue and will have a few practice goes later. Just finishing a cuppa, then I'm off to the Shuttleworth Collection to have a good look at their Gladiator. Actually it's a Sea Gladiator, but the rigging will be the same.
Pete
I've drilled some tiny holes in a piece of sprue and will have a few practice goes later. Just finishing a cuppa, then I'm off to the Shuttleworth Collection to have a good look at their Gladiator. Actually it's a Sea Gladiator, but the rigging will be the same.
Pete
Post some pictures Peter, it will be interesting. I wonder if it will be painted in the temperate FAA shadow scheme LOL……apparently Faith, Hope, and Charity were……