Dragon 1/35 25 Pounder

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Jakko

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All was going well until I started weathering and bits just started dropping off again.
I was about to remark something about:—
enamel washes
before I read you already mention them yourself :smiling3:

The problem is probably the thinner you’re using, or that’s in the pre-made washes. I used to have similar issues with detail parts coming loose when I made enamel-paint washes with what in the Netherlands is sold as terpentine*, but when I switched to wasbenzine everything stayed where I had glued it.

* This is not turpentine, that’s terpentijn, but a thin mixture of substances distilled from crude oil. The problem for me explaining it here is that finding a UK equivalent is difficult: both are more or less equivalent to white spirit, but not quite. About the only advice is to try a different solvent (say, with a different smell) on some test piece to see if that does work.
 

JR

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Andy, referring to what Jakko has said have you tried
1577038633373.png

Low odour and slow drying.
Would be a shame after all the work you've done.
 
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That's the exact brand I've got John, seems to work fine, but MIG must put something a bit stronger in their ready made stuff.

Limber is a write off but the gun itself is salvageable, just a few wonky or missing levers. Might put it all into a dio and hide the limber under a huge tarp. :smiling5:
 
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JR

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Great shame Andy, ive had my fair share as you know, just put it down to experience, and move on.
Any way things like this are just asking to be used for testing other techniques. I keep mine for wreaks !
 
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Indeed John. There were a few small etch parts on the limber including removable drawers. They went together so much better than previous PE attempts which a step forward.

I also tried a fair few splatter techniques on it, including very low pressure from the airbrush, so it's tought me a few things.

Santa is bringing me a P-38 Lightning so that will be a complete change of direction.
 
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JR

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Thanks for that tip with the low side pressure Andy, no wonder mine blew everywhere but ! :smiling3:
 
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Sorry John, took me a while to figure out what you were saying. I didn't use the airbrush to blow paint off a brush if that's what you meant, haven't tried that one yet, only flicking various hard/soft/long/short brushes with a toothpick or coffee stirrer.

I was referring to blowing the paint on directly from the AB, but having the pressure so low that it came out in un-atomised blobs. Had to go really low to get the Infinity to do that! I couldn't even hear the air coming out, it just shot out a few blobs of paint when I pumped the trigger back and forth. Tricky with something as small as this as it was hard to control where the paint was going, but I could see it being useful on the bodywork of a tank for example, with highly diluted paint just a shade or two away from the base colour, to give a patchy faded effect.

Back to the lab shed for more experimenting methinks. :nerd:
 
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Spent a bit of time trying to rescue this. Clever camera angles hide the worst bits lol. Still WIP.

FY7jXw5.jpg

Doors are a little wonky (both of them melted off) but I think I've hidden the worst of the glue marks with rust / grease effects. Will do more once the joints have hardened up fully as I don't want them falling off again!

ofdoATR.jpg

I'm trying to go for a "used but cared for" look so not battered to death. Needs some light chipping around the edges I feel. Shovel needs to be more grubby, and some wear marks where the tyres had moved on the "turntable" thingumybob. Not sure what colour the spike things along the bottom should be (or even what they are) as I haven't found any pictures with them in place. Any help there would be appreciated.

flmBn3g.jpg

Pretty happy with how it's looking around the back. Leather pouches need a bit of fading, and maybe a few chips and scratches where the shells have been bumped around when loading.

1YVVybJ.jpg

Wheels & tyres need a bit of work too. Mould line resisted all attempts at sanding or scraping! I also used a pigment wash to simulate dirt in the treads but while trying to remove the excess it's actually stripping the paint from the soft rubber tyres. Despite a really good scrubbing and degreasing the primer hasn't really adhered to them as well as I'd have liked.
 

scottie3158

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Andy,
Despite the issues you have had this has turned out very well and if you hadn't have pointed them out you probably wouldn't have noticed.
 
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JR

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Sorry John, took me a while to figure out what you were saying. I didn't use the airbrush to blow paint off a brush if that's what you meant, haven't tried that one yet, only flicking various hard/soft/long/short brushes with a toothpick or coffee stirrer.

I was referring to blowing the paint on directly from the AB, but having the pressure so low that it came out in un-atomised blobs. Had to go really low to get the Infinity to do that! I couldn't even hear the air coming out, it just shot out a few blobs of paint when I pumped the trigger back and forth. Tricky with something as small as this as it was hard to control where the paint was going, but I could see it being useful on the bodywork of a tank for example, with highly diluted paint just a shade or two away from the base colour, to give a patchy faded effect.

Back to the lab shed for more experimenting methinks. :nerd:
With you now, Andy, thanks. Those blobs of paint do give the impression of age with the paint work. Agree with Paul if you hadn't mention it I wouldn't have seen any thing amiss.
 

Jakko

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the "turntable” thingumybob
That’s exactly what it is :smiling3: The stick at the end of the trails is for the gun crew to lift up the trail so the whole gun can be pivoted around on the big disc — the 25-pounder had very limited traverse in its mounting (something like 4° to both sides, off the top of my head).

Not sure what colour the spike things along the bottom should be (or even what they are) as I haven't found any pictures with them in place. Any help there would be appreciated.
I don’t know either, but given that the plate is meant to dig into the ground, I wouldn’t be surprised if the paint wore off the bottom edge, and especially the points.

The model is looking very good. I wouldn’t weather the gun itself overly heavily, as artillery is usually protected by canvas covers when not in use, but you can go to town on the ammo limber and the wheels and gun carriage I suppose :smiling3:
 
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With you now, Andy, thanks. Those blobs of paint do give the impression of age with the paint work. Agree with Paul if you hadn't mention it I wouldn't have seen any thing amiss.
Thanks John. I was hoping they'd be a bit more subtle but the Vallejo blobs dried much more differently to the Mr Color base than I'd accounted for. Happy with how it worked though.

That’s exactly what it is :smiling3: The stick at the end of the trails is for the gun crew to lift up the trail so the whole gun can be pivoted around on the big disc — the 25-pounder had very limited traverse in its mounting (something like 4° to both sides, off the top of my head).

Cheers Jakko. I understand how it works, I just wasn't sure if it had a particular name. You know what the military is like, "Angular Articulation Device" wouldn't have surprised me so they could shorten it to AAD :smiling5:

These are the spike things I meant, I should have been more clear. All the pictures I've found so far just show the mounting brackets and not the items themselves. Any idea what they are and how they should look?

EuJiM50.jpg
 

Graeme C.

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Looks like you've managed to rescue this one Andy, looks good to me.:thumb2:
 

Jakko

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I understand how it works, I just wasn't sure if it had a particular name. You know what the military is like, "Angular Articulation Device" wouldn't have surprised me so they could shorten it to AAD :smiling5:
Sorry, I misunderstood your question :smiling3: Those kinds of abbreviations are more a modern American thing, by the way. In the Second World War the British tended to call things by designations, reasonable, reverse order instead. (In case that little joke wasn’t clear, they’d use names like “Rod, Cleaning, Gun” or “Rod, Gun Cleaning” depending probably on the mood that struck the person in charge of thinking up the official name.)

These are the spike things I meant, I should have been more clear. All the pictures I've found so far just show the mounting brackets and not the items themselves. Any idea what they are and how they should look?
I’m not sure, but if I had to guess, I’d say they might be camouflage net spreaders — basically, tent poles to put underneath the camouflage net when that’s set up over the gun, to help conceal its shape and give the crew room to work.
 
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That sounds feasible, cheers. Quite a few of the pictures I've found have camo nets strapped to the limber so I guess they had to support them somehow.
 

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I'd forgotten about these, so too late now but here they are anyway.P1050335.JPGP1050336.JPGP1050337.JPG
No camo nets though, or those fittings you're wondering about. :sad-face:
Pete
 
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