"Easy Pickins" 200mm diorama, Normandy, WWII

Steve Ski

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Tree Test Fit

It’s a good thing I decided to do another test fit to verify where this tree will go, because some of the branch work was hindering the Ranger’s visibility of his targets and coming very close to some of the other figures in the scene.

As you can see there’s quite a bit more to add to make this tree fuller and I need to gain some altitude above the roof line. I put the R75 and driver in for perspective.

_DSC0675b-vi.jpg
_DSC0676b-vi.jpg



More to follow soon and thanks for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
 

Steve Ski

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Speeding Up the Process

Painting these Caspia clusters has not been as difficult as you might think. Most everyone suggested airbrushing the clusters, but that would still mean going back in there with a brush and catching all the missed areas. So, I decided from the get-go that I’d be using a brush, and it’s worked well, but slow.

I finally got the idea to pre-wet the clusters, and as you can see from the first two pics, I pre-wet the clusters by dipping them in a jar of water. It just so happens this is my brush cleaning jar for the cluster work anyway, so why not, it’s got a green tone. Clipped to a set of spring tweezers I dip the cluster and drop onto the plastic lid. Dip the brush in some Tamiya XF-5 Flat Green and dab all over the clusters, top and bottom. Then wet the brush with water and spread that paint into all the visible brown areas. Once I’m satisfied I’ve got the clusters covered all over I hit it with a hair dryer on high to quick dry the paint. Peg that cluster on the foam and continue the process for the rest of them.

_DSC0677b-vi.jpg
_DSC0678b-vi.jpg


Once all the clusters have the initial green tone I go back and hit the highlights, then add the yellowish tone to mesh them all together. Now I’ve got enough to finish the tree to make it fuller and more realistic, I hope.

_DSC0680b-vi.jpg


You can also see the plans for items to be added to the shed area where the Ranger will be hiding. I enjoy fabricating odds and ends; it adds character to the scene and helps tell the story a little better. However, once this tree is finished, I still need to work in a few bushes and prep the ivy vines and cut quite a few more leaves.


More to follow and thanks for watchin. Cheers, Ski.
 

JR

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Looking good Steven. Liking the trees .
 

Steve Ski

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I'm not a botanist, Pete, sorry, mate. It's called Caspia everywhere I've seen it. Do a pic search, it's a really cool looking flower.;)
 
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Steve Ski

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Will It Pass Muster?

I’ve got a bit to cover here, but I’ll do my best to keep it short. This layout needs to be accurate.

With the tree finally finished as far as I will take it, it’s now time to check character alignment and see if this story can be told in a convincing manner. After all, if I can’t pull this off the whole thing will just have been a very lengthy exercise. However, I think I can pull it off, but yall will need to lend me some eyeballs, if you please. I believe I’ve got every angle covered where the visual direction is correct for each figure, so don’t be shy. The figures are just pinned and I can adjust as needed.

_DSC0682b-vi.jpg
_DSC0681b-vi.jpg


You can see the foam has been glued to the base already. I was sweating it this morning wondering if I had any thin sheets or would I be waiting until I acquired some. Fortunately, I had several thin sheets set aside specifically for this base and had totally forgotten about them. It’s only been a few years since I’d worked this dio steady, so I was bound to forget something, right?

I’ll make a quick note here to say that when painting the eyes for each figure and having a scenario in mind, you should be painting the eyes to reflect the interaction you will need once these figures are placed. Obviously, right? In a scenario with a larger number of figures in a smaller scale this wouldn’t be much of an issue, but in this scale, ya better have it figured out or you will be going back to correct the eyes. Some of these figures were painted a very long time ago, comparatively, so I recon I got lucky, lol. I’ve had this layout planned since the beginning, with minor structure changes, but the basic interaction is still the same. The placement of two figures has been changed, but this tells a better story as they are seen now.

Ok, back to the layout and figure interaction, the eyes, etc. The main issue was placing the Ranger in a position to see the Germans from decent concealment and not be visible himself. If his new guests were paying attention somebody would have seen him eventually, but he’s got the upper hand in this scenario, the element of surprise. These guys don’t look like they can agree on much of anything and a few of them look confused, so this is a perfect set up for an ambush thrown in the Ranger’s lap. How could he refuse? And he was just stopping for a bite of cheese and some wine.

_DSC0683b-vi.jpg
_DSC0685b-vi.jpg


Hiding in an out building, shed, lean-to, whatever you want to call it, he’s not easily seen, especially with the crawling ivy, bushes, and the tree with low hanging branches. The outside will get all the trimmings making visibility through the slats between boards very difficult. This really was the best solution to show how the Ranger would get the drop on four unsuspecting Germans who just so happened to stop to converse, or argue, over directions.

_DSC0686b-vi.jpg
_DSC0687b-vi.jpg


I have found quite a few pics from the inet when searching French farms buildings, out-buildings, sheds, etc., that are covered in ivy, brush, and overgrowth, so I know this scenario is very plausible. You can’t see it from any of these photos, but he does have a great direct line-of-sight on these four Germans through the low hanging branches and his body is virtually invisible.

_DSC0689b-vi.jpg
_DSC0690b-vi.jpg


Making sure that each figure is looking directly at the intended recipient I realized the R75 pax should actually not be looking at the grenadier, but more towards the driver in a manner of disgust. There needs to be an air of disagreement and impatience on the part of the R75 crew. I’ve already made corrections on the board layout.

_DSC0691b1-vi.jpg


Now it’s time to continue prepping the veggies and get the shed items made as well as prep the base for ground cover. There’s still quite a bit to do before permanently placing these figures and snaping photos for the finish.

If you have any comments or suggestions, feel free to cut loose, all are welcome. If you see anything I’m not catching here, holler. Thanks for watchin.


Cheers, Ski.
 

Steve Ski

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Whiskey and Wine Barrels


Since I’m not in the mood to work the base ground work yet I’ve worked the tree trunk for more texture and started making barrels. I’m going to make everything that I’ve got listed for the lean-to before doing any of the ground work. I plan on having chains, ropes, metal gears and pulleys, saws, hammers, sledge hammers, axes, shovels, brooms, rakes, etc. This will be a storage lean-to/work shop or open storage shed.

Trying to find something that was a close size for a wine barrel was a slight challenge until I found an older rattle can that would fit almost perfectly. I’ve got a few wine barrels and an old whiskey barrel here at the Ranchito, so getting the dimensions was no problem. I matched them up against the Ranger figure to get an idea as to whether they would be in scale and they are.

Before starting on these I watched a few vids on YT to get the basics, and off I went. I used pine strips for the larger barrel lid and body, but the whiskey barrel required a more flexible material, balsa wood. After cutting the strips to a reasonable width I pinched them with needle nose pliers every 3/16ths to ¼ inch to create the subtle curves. The pine was a little dicey at times, but the balsa wood was easy to manipulate. Each strip needs to be tapered top and bottom to account for the barrel width at each end, so they were sanded slightly to accommodate the difference.

_DSC0694b-vi.jpg
_DSC0696b-vi.jpg


As you can see, I wrapped the rattle can with some flexible yellow foam and blue tape to get the middle width. The same process was used on the wooden dowel used for the whiskey barrel. I applied super glue and got started applying the strips. Once you get a few in place the rest are easy to keep proper alignment. Then cut and sand the ends, you’re done.

_DSC0698b1-vi.jpg
_DSC0701b-vi.jpg


At first I was thinking of using copper sheet cut to width for the barrel straps, but sheet styrene was much easier to work and manipulate. I followed the wine barrel strap pattern that is present on the ones I have, same for the whiskey barrel. I used oils for the barrel colors and placed pin washes in between the slats before applying the straps. This gave clarity and depth to the overall look.

_DSC0703b-vi.jpg
_DSC0705b-vi.jpg


Once the straps were in place I primed them with Floquil primer and painted them with Tamiya Metallic Grey XF-56. This is very close to the galvanized color tone on my barrel straps, but I have no idea if this is even close to what was used in France in the 40’s. I also made the huge nails, or pegs, that hold the straps at the joints. None of my barrels have any nails on the straps other than at the joints, but I added them here for character and interest to each strap. They are widely spaced, so it won’t look too overdone.

_DSC0707b-vi.jpg
_DSC0709b-vi.jpg


After the straps were painted the each got a pin wash with oils for depth and to cover any light spots against the barrel. Lastly, the cork, or peg was installed and painted. I plan to make these very dusty as if in storage or neglected for years, but I’m not sure if there will be any old rust anywhere on the straps. I still need to research that. Also, I may add a very small amount of moss build-up at the base of each, using Migs enamels, but I’m still undecided.


Any comments or questions, holler, and thanks for watchin.

Cheers, Ski.
 

Jack L

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Whiskey and Wine Barrels


Since I’m not in the mood to work the base ground work yet I’ve worked the tree trunk for more texture and started making barrels. I’m going to make everything that I’ve got listed for the lean-to before doing any of the ground work. I plan on having chains, ropes, metal gears and pulleys, saws, hammers, sledge hammers, axes, shovels, brooms, rakes, etc. This will be a storage lean-to/work shop or open storage shed.

Trying to find something that was a close size for a wine barrel was a slight challenge until I found an older rattle can that would fit almost perfectly. I’ve got a few wine barrels and an old whiskey barrel here at the Ranchito, so getting the dimensions was no problem. I matched them up against the Ranger figure to get an idea as to whether they would be in scale and they are.

Before starting on these I watched a few vids on YT to get the basics, and off I went. I used pine strips for the larger barrel lid and body, but the whiskey barrel required a more flexible material, balsa wood. After cutting the strips to a reasonable width I pinched them with needle nose pliers every 3/16ths to ¼ inch to create the subtle curves. The pine was a little dicey at times, but the balsa wood was easy to manipulate. Each strip needs to be tapered top and bottom to account for the barrel width at each end, so they were sanded slightly to accommodate the difference.

_DSC0694b-vi.jpg
_DSC0696b-vi.jpg


As you can see, I wrapped the rattle can with some flexible yellow foam and blue tape to get the middle width. The same process was used on the wooden dowel used for the whiskey barrel. I applied super glue and got started applying the strips. Once you get a few in place the rest are easy to keep proper alignment. Then cut and sand the ends, you’re done.

_DSC0698b1-vi.jpg
_DSC0701b-vi.jpg


At first I was thinking of using copper sheet cut to width for the barrel straps, but sheet styrene was much easier to work and manipulate. I followed the wine barrel strap pattern that is present on the ones I have, same for the whiskey barrel. I used oils for the barrel colors and placed pin washes in between the slats before applying the straps. This gave clarity and depth to the overall look.

_DSC0703b-vi.jpg
_DSC0705b-vi.jpg


Once the straps were in place I primed them with Floquil primer and painted them with Tamiya Metallic Grey XF-56. This is very close to the galvanized color tone on my barrel straps, but I have no idea if this is even close to what was used in France in the 40’s. I also made the huge nails, or pegs, that hold the straps at the joints. None of my barrels have any nails on the straps other than at the joints, but I added them here for character and interest to each strap. They are widely spaced, so it won’t look too overdone.

_DSC0707b-vi.jpg
_DSC0709b-vi.jpg


After the straps were painted the each got a pin wash with oils for depth and to cover any light spots against the barrel. Lastly, the cork, or peg was installed and painted. I plan to make these very dusty as if in storage or neglected for years, but I’m not sure if there will be any old rust anywhere on the straps. I still need to research that. Also, I may add a very small amount of moss build-up at the base of each, using Migs enamels, but I’m still undecided.


Any comments or questions, holler, and thanks for watchin.

Cheers, Ski.
What?!?!?! Next level witchcraft!
 

Stefee

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Those barrels are simply sublime, the only disappointment is you didn't tell us what you have filled them with - purely medicinal I'm sure......... :smiling2:
Seriously though, the skill and believability you diorama makers on this site have is mind boggling.
 

A_J_Rimmer

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Superb work doesn't even cover it Steve, I love the detailed thinking that's you're putting into this build - little touches like worrying if the Ranger had a line of sight the the four Germans. Excellent stuff.

I've seen your work before on SPAM, so it's great to see you on these boards as well.
 

Waspie

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Loving the casks. Now my question. Would that be 15 or 25 year old Whiskey???
That is quite some skill you're lucky enough to have there Steve.
 

JR

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Great work with the detailing Steve, colour of those barrels looks spot on.
 
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