Extra thin Filler

simontie

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Haven't tried this yet but i read the other day that if you cut good quality sprue up into small pices and add it to the remaining drops of extra thin you end up with a great filler fast drying and it can be made as thick or thin as you like anyone else tried this?
assume if you use different coloured piece’s you would make better matching filler for the kit
also come with its own aplicator
simon
 

Jakko

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That’s a method that in the 1970s/’80s was known as “liquid plastic”. It’s not used much anymore, AFAIK, but there is no reason to not try it and see if you get along with it.

You will need more than a few drops of cement if you want to dissolve any reasonable amount of sprue, though, so maybe if you like it, you might want to invest in cheaper thinner than model cement :smiling3:
 

colin m

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Haven't tried this yet but i read the other day that if you cut good quality sprue up into small pices and add it to the remaining drops of extra thin you end up with a great filler fast drying and it can be made as thick or thin as you like anyone else tried this?
assume if you use different coloured piece’s you would make better matching filler for the kit
also come with its own aplicator
simon
I think some people call it 'sprue glue' It should be good where you need to re-introduce a bit of strength.
 

Tim Marlow

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I remember it being called spret….used to make it with Mek Pak Or Carbon Terachloride (dry cleaning fluid) when it was easily available. To be honest, it’s not a patch on “proper” fillers. I found it more like a poor man’s milliput.
 

AlexBB

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This is commonly known as "SprueGoo". It is quite common on many forums I visit and very popular with Car builders in the USA. One of the main reasons is that it re-scribes the same as the surrounding plastic, though there are other fillers that do this too! It is best to make 'Goo' out of the parent plastic for the model due to the differences in the plastics, i.e. Tamiya for Tamiya, Airfix for Airfix.

It can however take a few days to dry 'hard' before it can be re-worked, especially if it is a deep fill.
 

Isitme

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Still have a bottle of the sprue glue/liquid plastic in an old MekPak cement bottle and use it mainly for texture work. But you can dilute it into whatever thickness you want.
But beware it can affect you with the fumes so dip in and lid back on.
 

BarryW

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Can I suggest Mr Dissolved Putty as an alternative that is very effective as a ‘extra thin filler’. Not good for any significant gaps but it is ideal for hairline gaps, stubborn seams or to help level uneven surfaces due to it being very self-levelling. The lacquer based carrier dissolves leaving the filler material in shallow ‘dips’ and cracks. Sometimes, depending on the depth of the crack or dip a second treatment may be necessary. Use this alongside a light sanding.
 
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Figure modellers into Historex figures were well into 'spret' ( sprue/runner dissolved in carbon tetrachloride) back in the day. They used it to detail hair, fur headgear etc. Mixing it to get the consistency right was always a bit hit and miss.
 

Dave Ward

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If I need any thin filler, I squeeze a peanut of Perfect Plastic Putty onto a palette & mix with a few drops of tap water - takes a minute or so - you can dilute it enough so that you can use a paintbrush to apply ( you have to wash the brush pretty quickly ). You can't make it too runny, or it won't stay stuck!
Dave
 

langy71

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If I need any thin filler, I squeeze a peanut of Perfect Plastic Putty onto a palette & mix with a few drops of tap water - takes a minute or so - you can dilute it enough so that you can use a paintbrush to apply ( you have to wash the brush pretty quickly ). You can't make it too runny, or it won't stay stuck!
Dave
Exactly the same thing I use when a bit extra filling is needed, although I do have a bottle of 'Spru-Goo, just for when extra strength is needed...
 
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De Luxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty is a good product having used it for some time now.
I like Dave and Chris's idea for thinning it to be more versatile.
 
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