Gern's Pegasus Mercury 9

spanner570

SALAD DODGER
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David, my dear chap. A most excellent bit of bodging scratch dioramaringing.

You are without doubt a most welcome member of the club. By the way you haven't paid your subs yet!
 

Gern

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David, my dear chap. A most excellent bit of bodging scratch dioramaringing.

You are without doubt a most welcome member of the club. By the way you haven't paid your subs yet!

Thanks for your support Ron.

About the subs. I was going to bring them to Cosford. Then I thought of posting them but didn't want to cause extra work for our overloaded postal system - with more folks than ever ordering stuff online due to lockdown. Mea culpa! What with one thing and another, I just plain forgot!

Do you want me to send them direct to your Nigerian Prince friend Ikan Connu, like I did last time?
 

yak face

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Come on dave ! Those cars are TINY! You'll be making 1/144 aircraft next , i can recommend some good ones :smiling5:
 

Gern

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Dave you've missed painting the black on the tyre valve dust caps!

You need to get your eyes tested young Ron! I knew you'd be reminding me of that so that was the first thing I did after painting the bodies! Anyway, if you do manage to see them, one's silver 'cos I lost the original!
 

Gern

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I spotted right in the top corner on the instructions in tiny print - Scale 1/350.

You already know Pegasus have some sort of fixation about angles. I was looking to see if I could use any of the bits they supply for their re-fuelling system - maybe I could adapt them.

The main arm is supposed to pivot on a hole/pin arrangement. No. It won't move because the flat base of the arm is flat to the base when in it's mounting. Raising the base to allow the arm to swivel stops the nozzle fitting properly in the rocket.

The actual bit that takes the fuel to the rocket attaches at an angle (surprise, surprise) to the arm. Supposedly like this

IMGP3835.JPG

There's a D shaped peg which fits in a D shaped hole - like this

IMGP3836.JPG

They supply a piece of twin electrical cable to represent the fuel hoses. This is supposed to be twisted through 90 deg, led up the side of the arm in two grooves Then it's supposed to go over the circular connecting socket and then on to the smaller arm. To do this, you have to twist the twin cable through 90 deg, feed it over the circular support, then twist it back through 90 deg to get it to lie in the grooves in the smaller arm. Can't be done as the cable diameters are too large to be twisted in the small space available, and if you don't twist it, the circular support stops it fitting in the grooves!

If they'd left the twin cable lying flat instead of turning it on it's side to run up the fuelling arm, they'd have had no problems!

Sheesh!

No more about the fit issues I promise. I've got all of the main rocket assemblies done now with no more problems, and being filled and/or primed. I removed the pins inside the fins which were supposed to go through holes in the locating tabs. The fins fit fine without them and now I can paint them separately. Pics when they're done.
 

spanner570

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"....they supply a piece of twin electrical cable to represent the fuel hoses. This is supposed to be twisted through 90 deg, led up the side of the arm in two grooves Then it's supposed to go over the circular connecting socket and then on to the smaller arm. To do this, you have to twist the twin cable through 90 deg, feed it over the circular support, then twist it back through 90 deg to get it to lie in the grooves in the smaller arm. Can't be done as the cable diameters are too large to be twisted in the small space available, and if you don't twist it, the circular support stops it fitting in the grooves!"


Those who don't understand the above, please use the Gern to Pegasus free Google translator service...... :upside:

Yours.
Leonardo da Vinci
 

Gern

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"....they supply a piece of twin electrical cable to represent the fuel hoses. This is supposed to be twisted through 90 deg, led up the side of the arm in two grooves Then it's supposed to go over the circular connecting socket and then on to the smaller arm. To do this, you have to twist the twin cable through 90 deg, feed it over the circular support, then twist it back through 90 deg to get it to lie in the grooves in the smaller arm. Can't be done as the cable diameters are too large to be twisted in the small space available, and if you don't twist it, the circular support stops it fitting in the grooves!"


Those who don't understand the above, please use the Gern to Pegasus free Google translator service...... :upside:

Yours.
Leonardo da Vinci

That's why I refused to teach English! Nobody else speaks proper like what I does, so nobody can understand what I'm wenting on about!

I forgot your mastery of technical language Ron and tried to put it in English. In technical terms, you're supposed to twist the thingie so's it lies flat as it guz up the whatsit. Turn it to go over the doofus, then turn it back to fit the whatchamacallit - but it wo' goo 'cos the doofus gets in the road when yo've turned it!

Better?
 

boatman

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WELL Dave seein as how you are enjoyin this build an have plenty to say about it lets face it its not dull is it an must be good an im sure you will want to build another one an maybe tour the Pegasus factory where the make these wonders of models an give them your feed back an congrats on the model well thought out you will say eh !!!!!!!
chris
 
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Gern

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Made some progress with paint

Engine covers (that's what it says) - Stynylrez Black primer, VMA Chrome. Looks OK to me but certainly no super shiny finish. Not a complaint but ...

There is a long tab on the inside of these which fits into a slot on the fuselage. The fit is excellent and I see no need for filler, so full marks to Pegasus. My problem is I can't see where the slot is when I go to fit the cover. If I put glue on the cover, my ham fisted approach is going to end up with glue marks over the fuselage when I try to locate the tab into the slot, and I don't want to risk using Extra Thin after fitting in case that damages the paint. I don't want to have to mask and re-paint, so my thought was to add an extension on to the tab making it longer. That way I'll be able to see it and I should be able to get the cover in place without having to move it around. What do you reckon guys? Will that work or is there an easier way?

IMGP3837.JPG

Main engine exhausts - Stynylrez White primer, Citadel Warplock Bronze

IMGP3838.JPG

Launch pad - Stynylrez Black primer, VMA Steel, black wash to come. I'm happy so far, but I cut out the holes under the main engine exhausts - I got a plan!

IMGP3839.JPGIMGP3840.JPG

I haven't decided on the colours yet, but I do know it won't be Buck Rogers silver all over!

Forgot to say, all these have had a spray coat of Klear. Hopefully that will be enough to stop the paint falling off if I look at it too hard which is an all-too-common problem for me!

Found out this afternoon that my crane tower isn't quite high enough to enable it to lift the pod into place:sad:. I got a solution which should improve the overall looks of the dio but of course it means more work!
 

Tim Marlow

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Looking good Dave.....with respect to your problem, could you just put glue in the slot? Should be easier to fit without getting glue everywhere then....
 

Gern

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HI DAVE you dint answer my reply ?lol
chris

Sorry Chris. I thought my translation using the technical terms made everything clear. As far as visiting the factory, I think they're based somewhere on t'other side o' t' world. Considering that the furthest abroad I've ever been is Anglesey - and I went over the bridge so that probably doesn't count - a factory visit seems most unlikely!
 
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