Glue for beginners

zuludog

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Bernie has hinted that he would like some advice on glue, but his introduction thread was getting a bit long, so I've started this new one


We'll assume that a beginner would be making something simple straight out of the box, so keep the glue simple. Just get tube, and liquid glue


As you progress to detailing, conversions, and aftermarket parts you can add to your selection as needed


Working your way round YouTube and reading magazines will show you different methods & materials, and so you can add to your selection of glues as you go along


Liquid glue often comes in a bottle with a brush inside the cap, but this is a bit big for very small parts. Get, an 00 or 000 brush and use this exclusively for liquid glue


I'm sure others will have their say, but I think this is a good starting point
 
L

Laurie

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Glue for "glueing" plastic parts is not actually glue it is a method of welding the plastic bits together. That is the plastic bits are softened enough to stick to each other ie weld as in metal welding.


Best I have found is Mr Cement S. This is quick acting. So for instance place two halves of a wing together as they will be in final position. Some use tape or pegs etc to hold the pieces there. I use my fingers on average but may resort to tape. Then I use Mr Cement S which has a brush and brush around the edges at certain points MrCS this wicks into the joint. I tack at different parts to hold the pieces together. Probably 30 secs and the pieces are welded enough to release finger pressure. Some will apply pressure to enable softened plastic to oose from the joint. I find that provided the joints are held tight this is not necessary.


The glue or welder cement, ie plastic softener, is so thin it will not damage the surface plastic. But do not allow MrCS to peculate under the fingers as the plastic will have inlaid finger prints.


I found this a revelation after starting with the Revell and Humbrol tube glue. But try MrCS and i bet you will only resort to the tubes stuff on certain necessary occasions.


Laurie
 

stona

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Steve
Liquid glue is the way to go. I've found the Mr Cement (cited by Laurie) and Tamiya Extra Thin to have properties so similar as to be almost indistinguishable. Both are hot enough without being too hot and work well.


I haven't possessed or used a tube of the thicker type polystyrene cement for more years than I care to remember :smiling3:


Cheers


Steve
 

PaulTRose

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99% of my work is done with ca glue............buy big bottle for under 3 quid in boyes........lasts me about 6/7 months


i know lots of people dont like ca for general work for various reasons but ive never had any probs.....and the bonus is its quick so you can move on to the next stage quicker
 
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Laurie

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\ said:
Liquid glue is the way to go. I've found the Mr Cement (cited by Laurie) and Tamiya Extra Thin to have properties so similar as to be almost indistinguishable. Both are hot enough without being too hot and work well.
I haven't possessed or used a tube of the thicker type polystyrene cement for more years than I care to remember :smiling3:


Cheers


Steve
I use Tamiya Steve when I need a fraction more time.. Also Tamiya I have found provides a stronger joint.


Put a drop of each of the above on sprue.The MrC is gone in 10 secs. Tamiya hangs around and after a minute the plastic under the spot is still soft.


Laurie
 
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phalinmegob

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Ema plastic weld is a lot cheaper, been using it with the flexifile applicator for a year now, great stuff
 

stona

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\ said:
Ema plastic weld is a lot cheaper, been using it with the flexifile applicator for a year now, great stuff
I've used that too. It's a good product, maybe a little hotter than the other two, but that's just an impression.


Cheers


Steve
 
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I use Revell 'Contacta' mostly.Too much can come out of the applicator for small parts though,so you need to be careful with it.And you need to put the cap back on as soon as you've used it or it will dry and block the nozzle.Can be cleaned out with a piece of wire though.
 
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phalinmegob

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just heat the metal applicator tube with a lighter dave while pointing away from you, the blocked glue will vapourize with a small spurt, clear tube in seconds
 

flyjoe180

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\ said:
just heat the metal applicator tube with a lighter dave while pointing away from you, the blocked glue will vapourize with a small spurt, clear tube in seconds
That is a worthy top tip. I always have trouble with Revell's applicator drying up (even after replacing the tube cover immediately after use) so this could be a good fix.


I personally use Tamiya Extra Thin cement, normal Tamiya cement (it came with a kit I bought but it's handy for those large items that need to be pretty much welded on), and Revell Contacta. Like Steve, I haven't owned a tube of polystyrene glue since I started back into the hobby. Memories of Humbrol glue in a toothpaste looking tube in the 1980s...
 

zuludog

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Though I know that many modelers have stopped using tube glue, I prefer it for large components like fuselage halves and wing/fuselage joints


I use liquid glue mostly for flowing into joints


For most smaller parts I use my own concoction. A bottle of liquid glue into which I've dissolved a bit of clear sprue. This is slightly thicker than straight liquid glue, but nowhere near as thick as tube glue. I apply it with an 00 brush and there's less chance of it flowing away, or evaporating while I adjust things


I've tried the applicators with a plastic body & steel tube, but I don't like them.
 
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