Glue

[BBdave]

What plastic glue do you use I'm looking to buy a new batch the last one I used was humbrol but what is tamiyas or Mr cements offerings like? Or are they all much the same.


Dave

 

[dubster72]

That's a bit of a ' horses for courses' question Dave!


Glue choice is quite relevant to what kind of model that you're building. Tamiya Extra Thin is great on aircraft, but less useful with armour.


I use the aforementioned Extra Thin, Tamiya liquid cement & Revell Contacta with the thin tube for precise application.

 

[BBdave]

Now I'm sure I have a bottle of the Revell stuff somewhere you have just jogged a memory of seeing some whilst exploring the depths of my cupboard thanks you may have saved me a few quid.


Dave

 

[BarryW]

90% of my gluing is with Mr Cement S which is very like Tamiya Extra Thin but better. 


I am really not sure why it would not be just as good on tanks as it is on aircraft.   I am not a tank builder but I use this is almost every situation except when joining resin or p.e.  I do sometimes use Mr Cement DeLux which is a bit thicker and dries more slowly but that is not very often.


The Mr Cement S uses capillary action, 'dry join' the two pieces to be glued and run the cement along the edge and it draws into the join.  Any glue on the surface evaporates quickly.


I am puzzled as well by some people who dont think this works on joining large pieces and is only good for small parts. I always join wings/fuseage halves of my 1/32 scale aircraft together with Mr S using capillary action.  It is very much my 'go to' glue, brilliant stuff.

 

[zuludog]

I think I must be a bit unusual now, or perhaps just old fashioned, but for a lot of glueing I still prefer tube glue, whatever's available in the shop


I've used various liquid glues, from Mek Pak and Humbrol to the currently popular ones like Tamiya & Mr Cement S, and I can't say I can tell much difference between them.


That is, I can't tell much difference between the glue itself, but I've settled on Tamiya Extra Thin and Mr Cement S because they are the only brands I can find that don't have those dammned stupid, fiddly child proof caps. When they're used up I'll refill them with some bulk liquid glue from a fiddly top bottle.


I have one bottle of 'straight' liquid glue, and one to which I've added some pieces of clear sprue. This makes it just a bit thicker than liquid glue, but nowhere near as thick as tube glue. So I use all three types as I wish


I make 1/72 nd planes

 

[dubster72]

90% of my gluing is with Mr Cement S which is very like Tamiya Extra Thin but better. 


I am really not sure why it would not be just as good on tanks as it is on aircraft.   I am not a tank builder but I use this is almost every situation except when joining resin or p.e.  I do sometimes use Mr Cement DeLux which is a bit thicker and dries more slowly but that is not very often.


The Mr Cement S uses capillary action, 'dry join' the two pieces to be glued and run the cement along the edge and it draws into the join.  Any glue on the surface evaporates quickly.


I am puzzled as well by some people who dont think this works on joining large pieces and is only good for small parts. I always join wings/fuseage halves of my 1/32 scale aircraft together with Mr S using capillary action.  It is very much my 'go to' glue, brilliant stuff.

There's a simple reason why any thin liquid cement isn't as useful with armour as the thicker stuff Barry.


When joining fuselage halves or wings together, there is a pre-existing amount of structural strength inherent. Two sides of a fuselage can be easily clamped together & the thin cement run along the joins.


Most modern armour kits are constructed in modular sections, which mean they need to be built piece-by-piece; the upper hull of my Dragon Panzer III is made up of 7 separate pieces, for example.


The thicker types of cement provide more grip to facilitate the building process.


Not only that, but there are far more parts in a modern tank kit than in most aircraft kits. Much of these can't be clamped, only held in place with the Mk. One Finger. Again, only a grippy cement will suffice.


I do use extra thin cement in some areas on a tank, but only where the part has a tight attachment point, such as crew hatches.

 

[BarryW]

Interesting view Patrick.  I usually just hold parts together with my fingers for a few second to allow the thin glue to be drawn in and bite, it dries very quickly.  Consequently I use it without any clamping of parts together most of the time.  Even with fuse and wing halves I usually just tape the parts together with masking tape and then apply the thin glue in a few spots, leave it for 10 mins, remove the masking tape and then run the glue all around the join.   I clamp usually just when the fit requires it, perhaps some slight warping is pulling parts apart.

 

[PaulTRose]

80% of my work is done with thick super glue........cheap stuff from Boyes....one bottle lasts about 5 months .....only cos i hate having to wait for poly glue to set before i can get on with the next stage


have one of those revell 'bottles' with the needle applicator which is good for some things


pva for clear stuff

 

[Mark P]

I use acrylic nail glue, buy a load at a time from china and cheap as chips

 

[Messerschmitt]

I use only revell contact, works fine for me