Heller 1/24 Delage D8 SS

[Dave Ward]

A bit of careful fettling & persuading

Top just dry fitted, I haven't applied any filler yet - I wanted to see if there were any major gaps ( there aren't ).
I've found that the plastic that was 'chrome' plated is resistant to TET, trying Contacta instead ( it's that creamish plastic boot lid ). The bonnet looks like it may be problem, fitting only at end - it'll need investigation
Dave

 

[Jim R]

Well done Dave. Wrestled into position
Jim

 

[Dave Ward]

Spent quite a while sanding down the joints the rear wheel arches are in two parts, giving a nasty joint across the middle. I used Revell Plasto filler - it's a bit more 'sticky' than my normal Perfect Plastic Putty. The Heller plastic is soft, and seems to be a little oily. I've already switched to Revell Contacta as glue, - TET doesn't wok particularly well.
The floor pan & wings primed & given a basecoat of Hataka Night Black. I let this dry for a couple of hours, then applied what will be the first of many coats of gloss varnish.................


The upper bodywork had the nasty centre joints filled & rubbed down. I primed & basecoated those areas, to make sure that they were smooth


The parts that were to be 'chromed' wre given a coat of black paint. AK True Metal Silver is used - then when dry ( not long! ) buffed up with a soft coat.

I'll have to apply a couple of coats to get the best shine, but not bad for a first pass.
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

Wheels assembled - just the chromed wheel nuts to add. Test fitted on chassis


Another gloss coat added to the lower body...........

Shine is coming up nicely, maybe another two coats will bring it up to acceptable levels.
The boot lid is a really poor fit, gaps on all sides, it'll need a lot of filling & sanding to give a good finish. I found an interesting piccy on the internet - this D8 SS has a shell spare wheel carrier mounted on the boot lid, it's a slightly different bodied version, but these were bespoke cars, and all slightly different. As it happens I have a carrier that came in the crappy Mercedes 500 that I bought off ebay. This maybe a way to cover up the poor fit of the boot lid - I'll have to dig it out to see if it is anywhere the right size

I'm really enjoying this build - it's proving to be challenging, but not so bad that I get discouraged!
Dave

 

[Bortig the Viking]

AK True Metal Silver is used

Can I ask how you use the AK True Metal, found some in an old drawer after a tidy up during lockdown, can't remember when I got it or why and haven't a clue how to use it. I could probably Google it but prefer first hand guidance.

 

[Dave Ward]

Can I ask how you use the AK True Metal, found some in an old drawer after a tidy up during lockdown, can't remember when I got it or why and haven't a clue how to use it. I could probably Google it but prefer first hand guidance.

Mark,
I apply it over a matt black primer - the better the surface finish, the better the end result. The AK can be applied evenly by brush, cotton bud, or finger! ( not airbrush! ) It's a wax based paint/polish. After about 20 mins, it should be dry enough to buff up - I use a soft duster, or cotton bud. It may need one or two applications to get the shine right. You can clean brushes in white spirit. You have to experiment to see if you can varnish over the top & not affect the finish.
Dave

 

[Bortig the Viking]

Mark,
I apply it over a matt black primer - the better the surface finish, the better the end result. The AK can be applied evenly by brush, cotton bud, or finger! ( not airbrush! ) It's a wax based paint/polish. After about 20 mins, it should be dry enough to buff up - I use a soft duster, or cotton bud. It may need one or two applications to get the shine right. You can clean brushes in white spirit. You have to experiment to see if you can varnish over the top & not affect the finish.
Dave

Thanks for that, will give it a try and see how I get on with it, just wish I could remember why I bought the two tubes, lol.

 

[JR]

Never knew about using bleach as a stripper before, another handy tip , thanks .

 

[Dave Ward]

I've added the spare wheel cover from the Heller Mercedes 500 - It'll need a little putty to fill the gap ( straight wheel cover base to curved boot lid )


The bonnet & side panels have their ivory areas sprayed - I'll let those thoroughly dry overnight. I'll make a template, so I can cut a pair of symmetrical masks to cover the ivory oval portions of the door.

Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

Made a template, and used it to make left & right masks. Primed & basecoated with Night Black - I did get a bit of bleed under the mask, but nothing really disastrous


The ill-fitting bootl id still needs a bit of attention - always the case when you start putting on the final coats!
Dave

 

[Tim Marlow]

Pulling this together now then Dave

 

[JR]

Looking good.

 

[Dave Ward]

Coming together now - seats assembled - painted with red leather, although the poor light has made it look yellow brown!

The bodywork is just about finished - all dry fitted together. The wheels are complete & ready to fit.

I can't find the dashboard at the moment! It's on the bench somewhere, but hiding................ It's only a flat part, so If it doesn't turn up, I can easily make another.
Dave

 

[bilbo]

Looks really good, really like the 2 tone body

 

[Jim R]

Hi Dave
Cracking job. Well done overcoming the issues with this. That AK Silver sounds interesting.
Jim

 

[adt70hk]

Well done Dave for peservering. This sounds like it's fought you pretty hard in a lot of places.

ATB.

Andrew

 

[Dave Ward]

Hi Dave
Cracking job. Well done overcoming the issues with this. That AK Silver sounds interesting.
Jim

AK True Metal works well on reasonably small parts, but I think you'd have difficulty doing a large area - getting an even coating would need experimentation on how best to apply. It's a paste, about the same consistency as toothpaste, and I hate to think what would happen if you tried to airbrush it! I've found a soft brush works best - along with cotton buds, although they can shed fibres in the most obvious places! I've only used Silver & Brass, but there are a lot more on offer! https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/?product_cat=&s=ak+true+metal&post_type=product
Dave

 

[Dave Ward]

Whilst waiting for varnishes to dry, I thought about what to build next - I'm enjoying this Heller 1/24, so I found another 30's 1/24 car in the stash - this has been at the back of the stash for at least 15 years! I think I bought it off ebay - no instructions, no decals. I believe I took one look at and decided not to bother! However a lot have years have passed, and I'm prepared to give this a bit of attention.

The 'chrome' plated sprue is quite one of the nastiest I have seen - it'll need stripping back - it'll depend on how
successfully the chrome can be removed whether this is a goer or not! Sorry about the blurry pic!

I've downloaded some Bandai instructions for this Bugatti - the Italeri version looks like a much simplified version ( ie no opening doors ) - and all the upper bodywork pieces seem to be there. The suspension & underneath? - I'll have to use the Bandai instructions to identify parts & wing the rest! There seems to be only one unique decal, and that's the tiny one at the top of the radiator - should be interesting. I'm going to put a few parts into the bleach jar to see if this is worth spending time on.................. if it works I'll be starting a new blog for this mammoth Bugatti
Dave

 

[outrunner]

Dave, looks like you have a job on your hands there, I have a Frnklin Mint diecast model of that car in my collection and if you like I can send you a few pictures if it will be any help.

Andy.

 

[Dave Ward]

Dave, looks like you have a job on your hands there, I have a Frnklin Mint diecast model of that car in my collection and if you like I can send you a few pictures if it will be any help.

Andy.

Andy,
I'd be interested in the colours of your Bugatti - I'm thinking blue & black for mine
Dave