Help, new to airbrush.

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Hi, as some of you know I’ve just returned to modelling.
I’ve also just obtained my first airbrush, never used one before, so loads of questions.
Acrylic or Enamel?
Mixture ratios, with what?
Paint manufacturers?
Airbrush setup, air flow for paint?
Cleaning?
Additives to help your pair work?

Sorry to be a pain
Thanks Steve.
 

AlanG

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Acrylic for me personally. Still wear a mask when spraying though!
Vallejo Model Air is already pre-thinned ready for spraying straight from the bottle (after a good shake/mix)
Spray pressure for normal spraying is about 14-17psi
Cleaning. IPA (not the beer) or a suitable acrylic airbrush cleaning fluid
 

slupanter

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Hey Steve,

So I can only talk about my journey; I started with Tamiya acrylic and then later Mr Hobby, MRP and other lacquerish paint. I do spray Vallejo/AK/Ammo acrylic if I really have too.

I spary Lacquers at 10-15psi mixed with Mr Leveller or IPA (not the beer) try 15

Or Vall/AM/Ammo with Vallejo thinner at about 15/18-24psi, try 24

Pressure is about how thin, controllable and nice the paint sprays.

I would say buy some Tamiya 10ml and x20a thinner from John and have a play on a cheap kit.

For Vallejo etc
1650023740136.jpeg
 

langy71

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Welcome to the wonderful world of firing paint at stuff whilst trying to look all professional.....lol

Acrylic or Enamel... well that's down to a personal choice, you'll end up using the type that suits you best... personally I never got on with enamels, and prefer to use acrylics... however some guys on here can get fantastic results with enamels ..

There's a million and one different ideas for what to thin paints for airbrushing with, personally I tend to use the propriety thinner from the paint you are using ..etc Tamiya thinners for Tamiya paint.. and so on...(although Tamiya do produce a lacquer thinner for their paint and it's brilliant.. really works well with their Acrylics..) also be wary that one company's thinner may not work with another company's paint,

for cleaning the airbrush afterwards I use 99 % Isopropanol Alcohol ... (it's cheaper than using a propriety thinner to clean with)..

As for thinning paint, I use the rule of thinning it to the consistency of milk. sometimes I'll add a drop or two of 'flow improver' just keep the flow consistent, and cut down on 'tip dry'..(where the paint starts to dry on the tip of the needle, and then causes inconsistent airflow)

As for set up, my advice would be to purchase a compressor with a tank fitted to it, the tank will store a constant and stable supply of air whilst you are working with it, and stop any 'pulsing' from the compressor..

have a look around Youtube, there are loads and loads of video's that introduce you to using and airbrush, these are quite informative and easy to understand..
for example...

hope this helps
 

slupanter

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75FC0659-D989-47CE-89A8-B89C4C29D87C.jpeg
 

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Steve
Thanks so far guys, very informative.
One additional question, when mixing your paint/thinners how do you transfer your paint to your mixing pot, pipettes or syringes.
Cheers Steve.
 

Tim Marlow

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Jim R

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Hi Steve
Lots of very sound advice already given which can act as a perfect starting point.
However, whilst it would be great to have hard and fast rules there are just too many variables. For example, you open a new pot of paint, thin it 50/50 with the appropriate thinner and use it to spray your model. It sprays beautifully. A year later you take the same pot of paint, now half empty and thickened with time. On this occasion you want to spray small patches in a camo scheme. You use the same 50/50 mix and the same air pressure but this time the results are poor.
You would need to thin the thickened paint more and reduce the air pressure and work closer to the model to get a good result.
My advice is take onboard all the advice from the experienced guys but be prepared to adjust the variables to suit what you want to achieve.
Practice makes perfect is very true when airbrushing.
Jim
 

stillp

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For example, you open a new pot of paint, thin it 50/50 with the appropriate thinner and use it to spray your model. It sprays beautifully. A year later you take the same pot of paint, now half empty and thickened with time. On this occasion you want to spray small patches in a camo scheme. You use the same 50/50 mix and the same air pressure but this time the results are poor.
Even worse is when you use a pot of suitably thinned paint and it sprays beautifully, then you open another pot of the same paint, from the same manufacturer, thinned the same, and it's awful.
Pete
 

Dave Ward

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I don't think I can add anything - I think it's all been said....................
but - never mix paints in the airbrush cup! I use cheapo plastic shot glasses to mix the paint - if anything goes wrong ( like paint coagulating ), then you can throw the mess away - without having to clean it out of your airbrush!
Enamel/Acrylic? Smell! If you're in a garage, or hut, then that isn't a problem - inside your dwelling, solvent based enamels leave a lingering penetrating odour! ( I live in a mid-floor flat, so non-stink acrylic is ideal for me! )
As has been suggested, get a guinea pig kit to practice on - I've a harlequin coloured He 111 at the moment!
Dave
 

adt70hk

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Steve,

Nothing to add. I still feel like I'm learning to use one sometimes she I've had one for a few years now...

If you don't have a 'spare' kit as a test piece, have a rummage in your plastic recycling......I have a couple of yoghurt pots for the purpose.

ATB.

Andrew
 

Ian M

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My take on the subject.
It depends:
On what type of paint. Nozzle size, air pressure. Are you fine detailing or block painting.

The only way to figure it out is grab the bull by the horns and enjoy the ride.
Thin paint, fine detail, low pressure and anlk that but watch you distance to target as well.
 
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JR

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So you see Steve there are as many thoughts as how as there are methods . Don't be put off if you go down the acrylic route and find you suffer from stoppages through tip dry .Jump in by all means but be prepared to learn and practice and practice as Tim says.
 

Gern

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Ask any dozen modellers what they use in their A/B and how they spray it and you'll get a dozen different answers. Try a few alternative paints and experiment with different pressures. Patience and practise will get you where you want to be - just don't be surprised or disappointed if your first efforts are poor; you will improve.
 

PaulinKendal

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I've been airbrushing for a few months now, and I'm not very good at it. But, after zenithal priming and varnishing over a hundred 32mm miniatures in that time, at least now I have some idea what it is that I might be getting wrong when I get it wrong - to begin with it's all pretty mystifying.

Things don't go right, and you haven't a clue what the root of the problem is. So you ask, and watch videos, and get tons of conflicting advice.

There is no substitute for just using it, over and over and over again, until the airbrush starts to feel normal in your hand, and you notice things going slightly wrong immediately, and have some feel for how to correct those problems.

My one piece of advice would be - avoid all prescriptive advice apart from this: air on, paint on, paint off, air off. And practice.
 

Tim Marlow

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I've been airbrushing for a few months now, and I'm not very good at it. But, after zenithal priming and varnishing over a hundred 32mm miniatures in that time, at least now I have some idea what it is that I might be getting wrong when I get it wrong - to begin with it's all pretty mystifying.

Things don't go right, and you haven't a clue what the root of the problem is. So you ask, and watch videos, and get tons of conflicting advice.

There is no substitute for just using it, over and over and over again, until the airbrush starts to feel normal in your hand, and you notice things going slightly wrong immediately, and have some feel for how to correct those problems.

My one piece of advice would be - avoid all prescriptive advice apart from this: air on, paint on, paint off, air off. And practice.
Amen to that brother….
 
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