Help with painting a ship!

[BattleshipBob]

Morning all

In a few weeks i will building my first ship since the 70's when like most of us i made many Airfix 1 600 ships, in about 20 mins lol

I have been doing a lot of research but still need advice or to be honest HELP!!!

One of my biggest concerns is painting, especially the superstructure, boats etc.

I am thinking of using a AB to do the hull but then brushes to do the superstructure etc, i can see masking the loads of parts on the main deck for example to be a nightmare.

Not sure if to use lacquer or water based as well??

Can anybody advise me please

There will be more ??? Sorry

Thanks bob

 

[boatman]

Morning all

In a few weeks i will building my first ship since the 70's when like most of us i made many Airfix 1 600 ships, in about 20 mins lol

I have been doing a lot of research but still need advice or to be honest HELP!!!

One of my biggest concerns is painting, especially the superstructure, boats etc.

I am thinking of using a AB to do the hull but then brushes to do the superstructure etc, i can see masking the loads of parts on the main deck for example to be a nightmare.

Not sure if to use lacquer or water based as well??

Can anybody advise me please

There will be more ??? Sorry

Thanks bob

Hi Bob mate well i cant help with the A/B painting as only used a freinds one once an it was not great AN as my ship is a bit big i use rattle cans an then brushes on the decks an on the decking of THE S/S but what scale will be your first ship build be as to me the bigger it is the easyier it is to paint but that just me but if its in a small scale someone like 570 or ralph or richard is the best people to ask as they do small ship models an very well too
hope this helps you but i'll be lookin in on what you are up too
chris

 

[langy71]

Hiya Bob,
I'd go with an Airbrush for the main base colour and then brush for the superstructure,
personally I'd use acrylics,

maybe break the ship down into sub assemblies, paint each and then bring together at the end..(might help with handling whilst painting).

Chris (Boatman) would have a better idea about painting ships than i would..

 

[BattleshipBob]

Hi Bob mate well i cant help with the A/B painting as only used a freinds one once an it was not great AN as my ship is a bit big i use rattle cans an then brushes on the decks an on the decking of THE S/S but what scale will be your first ship build be as to me the bigger it is the easyier it is to paint but that just me but if its in a small scale someone like 570 or ralph or richard is the best people to ask as they do small ship models an very well too
hope this helps you but i'll be lookin in on what you are up too
chris

Thanks Chris

Was thinking of 1/1 but drive not long enough lol!!!

A mix of 1 400 and 1 350, have a few old airfix 1 600 as well

Hiya Bob,
I'd go with an Airbrush for the main base colour and then brush for the superstructure,
personally I'd use acrylics,

maybe break the ship down into sub assemblies, paint each and then bring together at the end..(might help with handling whilst painting).

Chris (Boatman) would have a better idea about painting ships than i would..

Sound advice, many thanks. Only problem i can see is then glueing the superstructure with paint on it, but thats another issue! But nothing like learning as you go!

 

[spanner570]

Bob, can't help with the A.B. question, as I just brush paint and as a result, don't use maskings. To be honest, I don't know how anyone can mask such tiny areas when using an A.B., but I presume folks do.

What I do know is I found it virtually impossible for me to paint the superstructure successfully (Particularly the small decks) after these are glue in place.

So I would suggest painting these, and all the small bits separately. If you just use the barest of glue, you won't do any damage to the paint. Then go around the model, touching up.

I use this method right down to my 1/1200 ships.
.
I hope this is of some help and good luck with the kits. Although always a long, drawn out build, ships can be a rewarding, and satisfying model when finished - Just stick with it!

Your Servant,
Admiral Benbow

 

[BattleshipBob]

dear Mr Benbow or Sir, just doffed my tricorn hat (head now very cold )

many thanks for the excellent advice , will try with a AB for the hull, the new booth will not take a 1 350 battleship but managed to fix the old booth so will attempt to roughly join them just for ships

never really brushed painted a model so off to look for advice but can see the logic for using one, will paint a lot on the sprues boats etc

thanks again Ron

sadly a Stug will not float

 

[Si Benson]

Just dip the whole thing straight in a pot of Dulux Bob, take it up the end of the garden and photograph through the kitchen window at night....no one will be any the wiser mate

Honestly wouldn’t know where to start with painting a floater but seeing Ron’s most excellent results with a brush, I’d say he was the chap to listen too

 

[stillp]

Honestly wouldn’t know where to start with painting a floater

I find they usually go away after a couple more flushes.
Pete

 

[boatman]

YEA Bob i think 570 advise is is the one for you an basaically its the same as im doin an thats building the bits of S/S seperatly an painting them on the spruses but i hav'nt any spruses as ive got to make all my bits up but its all done in the seperate stage then when you are up to the stage of fitting this all together then do so but dont break the bits off the sprusces untill you are ready to fit the part an then like 570 says just do touch up with a small brush howszat but just see how it goes
chris

 

[scottie3158]

Sorry mate I can't help i have only ever built one ship and that was the Airfix HMS Fearless when I was about 8. But the advice above sounds good to me.

 

[BattleshipBob]

Just dip the whole thing straight in a pot of Dulux Bob, take it up the end of the garden and photograph through the kitchen window at night....no one will be any the wiser mate

Honestly wouldn’t know where to start with painting a floater but seeing Ron’s most excellent results with a brush, I’d say he was the chap to listen too

That might work as they are only greyish lol

I find they usually go away after a couple more flushes.
Pete

Never seen a brown ship, lol!!

YEA Bob i think 570 advise is is the one for you an basaically its the same as im doin an thats building the bits of S/S seperatly an painting them on the spruses but i hav'nt any spruses as ive got to make all my bits up but its all done in the seperate stage then when you are up to the stage of fitting this all together then do so but dont break the bits off the sprusces untill you are ready to fit the part an then like 570 says just do touch up with a small brush howszat but just see how it goes
chris

Thanks Chris, if it goes shipshaped I'll scuttle it in the lake, do not have a bath lol

Sorry mate I can't help i have only ever built one ship and that was the Airfix HMS Fearless when I was about 8. But the advice above sounds good to me.

Thanks Paul, not a problem lol

 

[JR]

No problem with the spray booth Bob just get a

Other makes might be available.

To be honest I 'd just do as Admiral Benbow has suggested.

Found this as well , thought you might have seen it , but it's good anyway. Like how the guys on top appear to be looking inside.

 

[Defiant911]

Hi Bob, I’m no expert and have only made one boat so far but my experience was one of trial & error and despite asking many questions myself about how to go about painting I think it’s a very subjective topic. Everyone has there own preference so probably there isn’t a right or wrong way of doing it. I think the main consideration is lots of planning, e.g, study the instructions
In detail many times before you actually start the model. Get an idea of what goes where. You will find some parts of the assembly will be mostly the same colour so you can build that part in one go, air brush in one piece and then adhere at a later stage. Even instructions are not always the best order to do things as they rarely take account of the painting of parts. As a general rule of thumb painting dark colours over light is probably easier-as the other way around usually means a lot
More coats of paint to achieve the colour. Sometimes this cannot be avoided though so again it’s about planning the order of things.
On my particular boat which was the RMS Queen Mary 1, I sprayed the main hull and also all the decking as I wanted the best possible wood effect but that meant painting the white main body parts afterwards by brush. Again, masking I’m sure is possible if you are willing to spend months doing it which was far more than my own patience would allow. I found in practice glueing onto paint although not ideal practice did work none the less. If you can just sand carefully the surface to be glued, rough it a little and you will be fine.
As I say, this was my experience and there are many in this forum far more experienced than myself who
May contradict what I have said.
Good luck.
Ps- what boat/ship are you building?
Carl

 

[Ian M]

I use both enamel paints and or acrylic. I spray the subassembies befor attaching them to the hull any glue that has left a mark can be touched in later if needed. I find if left alone and if not swimming in glue, it dries almost perfect. I use liquid cement and a glupper applicator.
I have a conversion sheet some place that gives good colour matches with Vallejo acrylics. Failing that Sovereign hobbies colour coats.

 

[BattleshipBob]

No problem with the spray booth Bob just get a

View attachment 409702 Other makes might be available.

To be honest I 'd just do as Admiral Benbow has suggested.

Found this as well , thought you might have seen it , but it's good anyway. Like how the guys on top appear to be looking inside.

View attachment 409703

John, thats a top secret picture showing StuG division 999 testing a StuG ship for the invasion of England, also known as 666, but that was after the StuG capised lol. The bloke looking in is Herr Drip with his mate Herr Leak, carrying out tests, trying to identify the fish in the drivers seat, Somehow no crews could be found??

 

[BattleshipBob]

Hi Bob, I’m no expert and have only made one boat so far but my experience was one of trial & error and despite asking many questions myself about how to go about painting I think it’s a very subjective topic. Everyone has there own preference so probably there isn’t a right or wrong way of doing it. I think the main consideration is lots of planning, e.g, study the instructions
In detail many times before you actually start the model. Get an idea of what goes where. You will find some parts of the assembly will be mostly the same colour so you can build that part in one go, air brush in one piece and then adhere at a later stage. Even instructions are not always the best order to do things as they rarely take account of the painting of parts. As a general rule of thumb painting dark colours over light is probably easier-as the other way around usually means a lot
More coats of paint to achieve the colour. Sometimes this cannot be avoided though so again it’s about planning the order of things.
On my particular boat which was the RMS Queen Mary 1, I sprayed the main hull and also all the decking as I wanted the best possible wood effect but that meant painting the white main body parts afterwards by brush. Again, masking I’m sure is possible if you are willing to spend months doing it which was far more than my own patience would allow. I found in practice glueing onto paint although not ideal practice did work none the less. If you can just sand carefully the surface to be glued, rough it a little and you will be fine.
As I say, this was my experience and there are many in this forum far more experienced than myself who
May contradict what I have said.
Good luck.
Ps- what boat/ship are you building?
Carl

Thank you Carl, much food or plastic for thought, much appreciated.

Got a few in the stash, might go for 1 400 Heller Graf Spee, not many parts and i think a ideal first time build, have a few other Hellers

I use both enamel paints and or acrylic. I spray the subassembies befor attaching them to the hull any glue that has left a mark can be touched in later if needed. I find if left alone and if not swimming in glue, it dries almost perfect. I use liquid cement and a glupper applicator.
I have a conversion sheet some place that gives good colour matches with Vallejo acrylics. Failing that Sovereign hobbies colour coats.

Hi Ian

Much appreciated advice, ta very much!

Bob

 

[boatman]

WELL Bob there you have your advice when are we goin to see some action then ?lol
chris the boatman

 

[adt70hk]

sadly a Stug will not float

Now that's an idea for a 'what if'. A 'duplex drive' Stug or some other flotation device.....

 

[rtfoe]

Hi Bob, I just came across your post so I'll give my two cents of advise.

I use both the airbrush and hand painting with a brush for my builds.

It all depends on how the hull, body structures and other pieces are attached to the deck. If they are not molded to the deck then painting the sub assemblies separately will be the way to go. If they are molded to the deck then it's either masking or freehand brush painting. I normally would use the airbrush at a very low psi to lessen any over spray and won't bother masking any of the molded protrusions on the deck. Those I would pick out with a paint brush so, do have a lot of paint left over for touch ups.

There will always be re-paints over areas that paint has spilled over or glue marks to be hidden. Here are two tips I use...dark washes often help to keep the structure and deck joints neat and a dab of Testors matt varnish hides glue marks.

Thin liquid cement is best to glue structures down to the deck...hold it down firmly and just touch one end with a loaded sharp tipped brush and let capillary action do the rest. Don't press down just after you have added the glue risking pressed glue from creeping out and ruining the paint work.

PE railings and other parts can be attached before or after painting depending on your preference or the construction steps. Either white glue or CA can be used to attached these fiddly things. Apply a little glue at both ends to fix it down, once secure just run your applicator along the length to strengthen the bond. Apply it sparingly as it holds quite well.

Another thing is breath when you do the rigging...you can easily pass out if you don't. CA glues this best and an accelerator will make sure you don't hold your breath too long.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[BattleshipBob]

WELL Bob there you have your advice when are we goin to see some action then ?lol
chris the boatman

Wait for it sir, the slipway is frozen and the steel for the ship is stuck at the docks lol

Now that's an idea for a 'what if'. A 'duplex drive' Stug or some other flotation device.....

Stop it!!

Hi Bob, I just came across your post so I'll give my two cents of advise.

I use both the airbrush and hand painting with a brush for my builds.

It all depends on how the hull, body structures and other pieces are attached to the deck. If they are not molded to the deck then painting the sub assemblies separately will be the way to go. If they are molded to the deck then it's either masking or freehand brush painting. I normally would use the airbrush at a very low psi to lessen any over spray and won't bother masking any of the molded protrusions on the deck. Those I would pick out with a paint brush so, do have a lot of paint left over for touch ups.

There will always be re-paints over areas that paint has spilled over or glue marks to be hidden. Here are two tips I use...dark washes often help to keep the structure and deck joints neat and a dab of Testors matt varnish hides glue marks.

Thin liquid cement is best to glue structures down to the deck...hold it down firmly and just touch one end with a loaded sharp tipped brush and let capillary action do the rest. Don't press down just after you have added the glue risking pressed glue from creeping out and ruining the paint work.

PE railings and other parts can be attached before or after painting depending on your preference or the construction steps. Either white glue or CA can be used to attached these fiddly things. Apply a little glue at both ends to fix it down, once secure just run your applicator along the length to strengthen the bond. Apply it sparingly as it holds quite well.

Another thing is breath when you do the rigging...you can easily pass out if you don't. CA glues this best and an accelerator will make sure you don't hold your breath too long.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Richard

Hi Richard

Many thanks for the excellent advice, very much appreciated!!