Hooked points - inevitable?

[Deleted member 7181]

As title really, are hooked points on synthetic brushes inevitable? The general consensus on the web seems to be yes, with cheaper brushes succumbing sooner, but I thought I'd ask if there is anything I can do to lessen the issue.

I generally only use cheap brushes, so don't expect them to last forever, but Masters brush soap has been a revelation. Definitely one of those products that live up to the hype! My brushes definitely behave themselves more now that I clean them properly, but they all eventually hook over on the ends, even the couple of W&N Sceptre Gold I own have gone that way. I try and keep separate brushes for "rough" work like drybrushing and pigments, but even "normal" painting seems to curl the tips.

My options seem to be either keep replacing the cheap ones regularly, or, now that I'm a bit more disciplined and can look after them better, stump up for some posh pure sable brushes. Would the latter really pay off in the long run if I look after them, or are they wasted on a heathen like me?

I don't often do fine work, but there's nothing worse than needing a decent point and having to rummage through my collection to find something that isn't split or banana shaped!

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Andy
In my experience the short answer is yes. I’ve had them fishtail or curl within a few uses so find them a false economy.
Watercolour sables, not abused, and cleaned with Masters will last a very long time. My current “fine“ batch consists of a number OO, two number Os, and two number 1s. They get used almost every day, get cleaned and repointed after each session, and are stored point down in the protective sleeve to dry. All are at least a year old. The OOs are probably close to eighteen months old. All still point well and are more than acceptable in use. They are Rosemary and Co series 93 pure sable and I couldn’t recommend them highly enough. They are really good value for money. I have Series 7 W and N brushes, but don’t really use them often because the replacement cost nags away at me, and model painting can be hard on brushes.

 

[Tim Marlow]

There you go

Rosemary & Co Artists Brushes

Rosemary & Co Artists Brushes - Handmade in England for over 38 years

www.rosemaryandco.com

 

[Mickc1440]

I have a brush soap block and am also trying a new brush cleaning solution from Greenstuff which is also easy to use and seems to work well

 

[Jakko]

As title really, are hooked points on synthetic brushes inevitable?

I’ve never owned one that didn’t do this. Over the years, brush sellers have told me modern ones don’t do it anymore, but I’ve not tried any for 10+ years despite those claims — mostly because I figure they still will anyway

Slightly OT, but I did buy a synthetic brush last year, a flat one for drybrushing. However, I found it doesn’t work well for that because it doesn’t seem to want to hold paints for long.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks chaps.

Tim, I've seen you mention that brand before and have heard good things elsewhere. I'd been looking at the series 33 actually as I couldn't remember exactly which ones you used. The 93's are a bit cheaper so a bonus!

 

[Si Benson]

Hi Andy,
I brought 3 W&N series 7 brushes and a pot of Masters brush cleaner when I started modelling in 2009/10. I still have and use all three regularly for acrylic, enamel and oil Paint.

When I painted war hammer stuff in the 90’s I always spent as much as I could afford on brushes and looked after them with shampoo and conditioner.

Hope this helps
Si

 

[Tim Marlow]

Andy, I found the series 33 a little soft for my painting style (such as it is) so tried the slight cheaper 93s. They have a little more snap. In brush terms both are relatively cheap. If you want to push the boat out though you can’t go wrong with W and N, Raphael, or Handover sables.

 

[JR]

Andy .


I have a nice selection of good brushes W& N No 7, Rosemary, Proart and recently these. All red Kolinsky Sable, NOT cheap but they have made such a difference in my paint work. A lot of it must be the way they feel in the hand . Plus aload of really cheap ones that I use for dry brushing and harder use.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Si, actually seems like good value if they last that long!

I think I'll try a couple of the 93 series for now Tim. If I find I can look after them properly I may sample something even higher end.

I remember seeing those in the acquisitions topic John. I do like the look of those short, chunky handles, although I'm not quite sure I need anything quite that fine.

This is what I'm on with at the moment. Not particularly fine but I'm finding it very hard to follow a decent curved line with a hooked tip. The brush just wants to go it's own way!!

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Andy
I think the sweet spot in the range is size O or size 1. Above size 2 they don’t hold point so well..

 

[spanner570]

I get all my brushes from a certain well known high street art/stationary shop. Dirt cheap, about 50p a pop. As my approach to model making is very simple and basic, these cheap brushes do me fine.

Andy, as for "Hooked points" I simply take the scissors to the offending brush(s) and then use it for any stippling that comes along. Then off I toddle to the already mentioned establishment and buy me another fist full of new ones.

Having typed the above, John here at the S.M. shop has a great range of brushes.

 

[Deleted member 6559]

After a lot of experimenting I finally settled on Pro Arte synthetic brushes. The main reason was that I found the flexibility of the point was just right for the way I paint, and also that they go as small as 0000, which enables me to get at the detail. The downside is that they don't last long - one brush will do the detail work on one figure before the point hooks. However, at around £3.60 each, they are reasonably inexpensive, and I buy them in batches of 12 - they are supplied from the manufacturer in sealed packs of six, so you usually get unopened and unshop-soiled brushes.

I've found sable brushes too soft for my needs, and anyway I'm really bad at looking after equipment, so cheaper gear is the best option. Another factor is that acrylic paints are notoriously rough on brushes - oils and watercolours have natural binding agents which 'feed' the brush.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Ron. A bunch of my brushes are from a similar store, Boldmere branded, with a carded party pack costing 2 or 3 quid. They served me perfectly well for a while but I guess I'm asking too much after a year of my ham-fisted attempts at brushwork!

And Peter, thanks. I have some of those too, Acrylix I think they are, from an online retailer that sells packs of slight seconds. Again I've been very happy, saving them for "best", but after 18 months of abuse they are getting a bit ropey. It definitely sounds like I'm trying to get too much out of my old brushes!

 

[spanner570]

Andy. Same store, same brand!...

 

[JR]

Andy. Same store, same brand!...

You told me you used a floor brush cut right down !

 

[prichrd1]

That's where I've been going wrong!!!!
All these years modelling - and applying paint with me finger!!

But seriously - never seem to get "hooked points" on me brushes, always clean them immediately
after use in water or thinners depending on paint used. Then stored bristles up with the protective cover on (If I still have one). Like 570 above if they get clogged or damaged then they become stippling brushes - eventually when they are "hairless" they end up binned.

As for brush cleaner - have used "Abteilung - Magic Potion" (Available from John) - didn't realize there was so much rubbish in "cleaned" brushes!!

(L-R = the 7th brush is about 25 year old, no name on handle)

Paul.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Most of my brush jobs look like I've used a yard brush John

I still haven't got this thinning lark nailed. I usually start too thick and it leaves brush marks, but if I add the tiniest bit more water it flows everywhere like a wash


This is the kind of thing I get Paul



W&N 0000, Pro Arte 1, W&N 0

 

[Tim Marlow]

Yep, seen that before

 

[stillp]

Haven't been standing them up in water have you Andy? That can cause 'hooking' in minutes.
Pete