How to get better flow accross panel lines?

[Thorbrand]

Hi guys

I've been model making for a couple of years now and one problem keeps coming up which is, when I use a colour wash on panel lines I am not able to achieve a nice capillary action like I've seen in a lot of how to videos.

I tend to get away with it most of the time but I end up having to score the panel lines with a razor after I've put on the gloss. I only use one coat of gloss varnish and I wonder if I should use two? The panel wash I use is Humbrol Enamel and seems to be smooth enough, I think my problem is the surface which it is being applied to. I often have to scrub off the excess wash which sometimes creates a nice weathered effect but sometimes I want a nice clean look.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

 

[papa 695]

Brush the equivalent thinner into the panel line first that should help it run into the panel lines better.

 

[BarryW]

Do you gloss the model first.? Wash runs more easily onto a gloss surface.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Alex
You may be using too much wash or your wash may be too thick?
Not sure about your technique for applying the pin wash, so feel free to ignore this advice...
.
Try using a small brushsuch as a number 0 with a good point and just touching the brush to the line you want to accent. The paint should wick out and spread under capillary action. It is an easy technique, but takes a fair bit of time to cover the model properly, If you simply brush diluted paint over the model you will muddy the finish and leave yourself a lot of cleaning up.

Ian’s tip is also worth knowing as it will stop tidemarks forming as the paint dries.

Lastly, check the consistency of the paint you are using. It needs to be able to flow, so mustn’t be too thick. Thinner is better than thicker....also, this is one application where I find enamels and oils have an advantage over acrylics because they have lower surface tension. Oil based paint flows better, and is slower drying, so can be cleaned up more easily.

Cheers
Tim

 

[Jakko]

Acrylics thinned with methanol also have low surface tension and flow better than acrylics thinned with water, but with the drawback that the methanol will dissolve hardened acrylic paint underneath in much the same way as when using a white spirit-based enamel wash over dried enamel paint does.

 

[Steve Jones]

I'm with Ian and Barry. I always varnish the surface first. Then apply a moist brush dipped in thinner across the area I am going to pin wash. Load the brush quite heavily with wash and then watch it flow around the whole area. This then just leaves one small area where you touched the model with the brush to clean up.

 

[Mr Bowcat]

What gloss are you using?

 

[Thorbrand]

Hi guys. Im using humbrol gloss varnish and only one coat with humbrol enamel wash. The problem i find with using two coats of gloss is it fills in the panel lines too thick so i have to score them. Maybe applying enamel thinner to the lines after glossing and using a 0 size brush will help as suggested. I dont believe im using a 0 size brush so will order one and see what difference it makes.

 

[Mr Bowcat]

I tried a few glosses (including Humbrol) and eventually settled on W&N Galeria. I found it gave me the best results, sprays well, doesn't gunk up panel lines and I have no problem flowing wash. Might be forth trying a different gloss and see if you get better results.

 

[Thorbrand]

I tried a few glosses (including Humbrol) and eventually settled on W&N Galeria. I found it gave me the best results, sprays well, doesn't gunk up panel lines and I have no problem flowing wash. Might be forth trying a different gloss and see if you get better results.

Ah you see i use a big brush rather than spray it. Maybe i should buy it in a can and ill probably get a more even coverage

 

[rtfoe]

Ah you see i use a big brush rather than spray it. Maybe i should buy it in a can and ill probably get a more even coverage

Gloss varnish is best applied with an airbrush or from a can spray. By painting with a brush tends to get panel lines to puddle up with the varnish.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Dave S4]

Hi everyone. I've picked some good tips up on this q&a - thanks.
For what it's worth, having had similarly unsatisfactory results with washes, applying two+ coats of very thin Tamiya acrylic Smoke has been quite helpful. That said, it only really makes a difference on aircraft painted in light colours like very pale grey and "aluminium".
The capillary effect techniques described here sound well worth a try.
Cheers
DS

 

[Jakko]

For aircraft panel lines, I prefer translucent paint like Tamiya Smoke, which I don’t thin and wipe away with a moist fingertip perpendicular to the line almost immediately.

 

[Dave S4]

Good to know Smoke is popular with other modellers.

 

[Jakko]

You mean you thought there are modellers who don’t use it for anything and everything?

 

[Dave S4]

Oh, I just grope my way through the dark and ad-lib till something works!
Seriously though, all tips and advice appreciated as aircraft modelling is still quite unfamiliar territory.

 

[boatman]

Hi Alex Chris here I am a new member an have never done panel lineing before is it hard to do ? .I am goin to have a try at this panel lineing on a old model first to see if I have the skill to do it an what is the proper name for this is it just panel lineing wash ? chris

 

[Dave Ward]

I generally make my own panel wash. - I use soft artists pastel sticks, scraped to make a fine powder, mixed with water, and washing up liquid ( reduces the surface tension ). It takes a bit of trial and error to get the consistency right, but once you've cracked it, capillary action really sucks it along! Of course, you have to protect it afterwards with a varnish coat.
In the past, I have used Vallejo Game Ink, for panel washes - you can get it in black. sepia, black green etc
Dave

 

[boatman]

Hi Dave cheers 4 info i'll have a look in my model shop an see what's what

 

[Tim Marlow]

I also make my own pin wash, but use completely different materials to Dave
I use a mix of oil paint, usually fifty fifty ivory black and burnt umber, diluted to taste with Sansodor thinner. I’ve been known to use Payne’s Grey on silver finishes. This mix flows really well, but takes time to dry. The advantage is that you can streak out any overpainting in the direction of wind flow (for aircraft) or gravity (for ground vehicles) before it sets too hard to move. The advantage of making your own is the infinite variety of colour you can make, giving each of your models a degree of individuality.