I know me again, advise painting and using PE railings?

Bobthestug

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Sorry folks

After advice referance PE railings?

I think its best to paint the railings on the frets first, fit and touch up if required?

Now when it comes to railings with bends, is it best to cut off the fret, do the bends, then paint, then fit?

Next, stairs, remove from fret, bend to shape, paint then fit??

I have bought a cheap set of Eduard railings for practice and boy i need it lol

Thanks all, sorry to be right pain!

Bob
 

Airborne01

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Have you thought of using burnishing fluid followed by dry-brushing for your PE Bob? - paint doesn't seem to adhere too well to the untreated brass but the end product of burnishing is far more resilient and receptive of paint - and the dry brushing imparts a three-dimensional aspect to an otherwise flat product!
Steve
 

Dave Ward

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Bob,
I always clean the PE on the fret, by brushing them with IPA. I've never tried painting before fitting, I always add then paint afterwards. The railings are then brush painted with a mix of the desired paint & matt varnish
Dave
edit: I have tried cleaning the frets with a flame passed over them quickly - but I found it distorts the thin parts! OK for larger parts, though............
 

John Race

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Bob,
I always clean the PE on the fret, by brushing them with IPA. I've never tried painting before fitting, I always add then paint afterwards. The railings are then brush painted with a mix of the desired paint & matt varnish
Dave
edit: I have tried cleaning the frets with a flame passed over them quickly - but I found it distorts the thin parts! OK for larger parts, though............
I like that, sounds most interesting Dave. :nerd:
 

Tim Marlow

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I’d use this approach….
1. Degrease while on the frets with meths and a soft brush.
2. Use burnishing fluid as suggested by Steve, again while on the fret. This will ensure that the underlayer will be black if any paint chips later.
3. Fit to the mode with CA one stanchion at a time so you can keep them level.
4. Dry brush in successive lighter shades of the required colour.
5.Spray varnish to finish.
 

Airborne01

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I’d use this approach….
1. Degrease while on the frets with meths and a soft brush.
2. Use burnishing fluid as suggested by Steve, again while on the fret. This will ensure that the underlayer will be black if any paint chips later.
3. Fit to the mode with CA one stanchion at a time so you can keep them level.
4. Dry brush in successive lighter shades of the required colour.
5.Spray varnish to finish.
[/QUOTE
Bob,
I totally agree with Tim's expansion of my thoughts! Look forward to the result if you try this (Degreasing with white vinegar also works very well, bizarrely!) Try not to handle the PE more than necessary! AND --- mind your thinners when passing a flame - there's only space fro one pyromaniac on this forum! :face-with-head-bandage: Steve
 

Tim Marlow

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Never thought of using white vinegar. It will etch the surface and make it better at holding paint and glue….great tip that! Nice one Steve.
 

Jim R

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Hi Bob
I clean the PE fret with a fibreglass pen like THIS.
I then make a paper copy of the railing section.
P1050880.JPG

I use that to cut and bend a section of railing. The card can be flattened to get the length.
P1050881.JPG

I attach the railings with tiny bits of tape.
P1050888.JPG

I use thin CA wicked into the join. Then paint.
P1050883.JPG

Far from perfect but works for me bearing in mind I am certainly not a ship builder.
P1050920.JPG

P1050956.JPG

This is 1/700 so being tiny a few mistakes don't show too badly.
Jim
 

Bobthestug

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Thank you all,
Have you thought of using burnishing fluid followed by dry-brushing for your PE Bob? - paint doesn't seem to adhere too well to the untreated brass but the end product of burnishing is far more resilient and receptive of paint - and the dry brushing imparts a three-dimensional aspect to an otherwise flat product!
Steve
Thanks Steve, i have some fluid left over from metal tracks!
Bob,
I always clean the PE on the fret, by brushing them with IPA. I've never tried painting before fitting, I always add then paint afterwards. The railings are then brush painted with a mix of the desired paint & matt varnish
Dave
edit: I have tried cleaning the frets with a flame passed over them quickly - but I found it distorts the thin parts! OK for larger parts, though............
Many thanks again Dave
I’d use this approach….
1. Degrease while on the frets with meths and a soft brush.
2. Use burnishing fluid as suggested by Steve, again while on the fret. This will ensure that the underlayer will be black if any paint chips later.
3. Fit to the mode with CA one stanchion at a time so you can keep them level.
4. Dry brush in successive lighter shades of the required colour.
5.Spray varnish to finish.
Thanks Tim, a lot to learn, again!
I also have white vinegar, thankfully have a set of railings to ruin!
Hi Bob
I clean the PE fret with a fibreglass pen like THIS.
I then make a paper copy of the railing section.
View attachment 435772

I use that to cut and bend a section of railing. The card can be flattened to get the length.
View attachment 435773

I attach the railings with tiny bits of tape.
View attachment 435775

I use thin CA wicked into the join. Then paint.
View attachment 435774

Far from perfect but works for me bearing in mind I am certainly not a ship builder.
View attachment 435776

View attachment 435777

This is 1/700 so being tiny a few mistakes don't show too badly.
Jim
Hi Jim, many thanks, photos really help my tiny brain!!
 

Tim Marlow

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Fantastic tips from Jim there. Only thing I’d say is if you use a fibreglass scratch brush use it wet. The fibres are horrible, really irritant, and wet working stops them flying around. In fact, if you use a spot of dishwashing soap in the water it will degrease the fret as you clean it.
 

Tim Marlow

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That’s the fibres Dave. I found the same, but when used wet the itching goes away, at least, in my experience. They are not necessary for plastic work, but pretty essential for etch brass and whitemetal kits. Mind you, I haven’t made one of those for years.
 

boatman

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BOB M8 Jim an all the lads have given you good adivce an heres mine myIMG_6669.JPG post stanitions are gluesd in to the s/s then the brass rod slipped throght the holes an its very fiddley but can be done have a look at my photo ectch brass railing an these are very fragile but possible to do
 
D

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Found the best way with PE.

1000 gauge wet & dry. Loads of water & give a good scrubbing all in the same direction.

Gets rid of all that junk they chuck on. Plus it gives a good grip for the paint.

If possible if practical use low temperature solder. Fills gaps & gives a perfect joint.

Primer. Mr Hobby "Mr Metal Primer-R" sticks like the dickings. Plus is thin & does not "crowd" the PE.
Clean well before priming using IPA.

Using the above it will not peel & finishing paint coats will grab well on the Primer.

Also add superb, the above primer, on the lead/Zinc (is it) metal castings which do not like the average primers.

Laurie
 

Tim Marlow

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If possible if practical use low temperature solder. Fills gaps & gives a perfect joint.

Laurie
Great stuff for joining brass to brass (or nickel silver to nickel silver) .
Laurie, not sure if you’ve tried it, but a 40% phosphoric acid solution will make 145 degC solder flow like melted butter. It is simply the best flux I’ve ever used with low melt solder. Be careful not to breathe in the fumes though. Just rinse with water afterwards to remove it.
 
D

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Great stuff for joining brass to brass (or nickel silver to nickel silver) .
Laurie, not sure if you’ve tried it, but a 40% phosphoric acid solution will make 145 degC solder flow like melted butter. It is simply the best flux I’ve ever used with low melt solder. Be careful not to breathe in the fumes though. Just rinse with water afterwards to remove it.
Blimey Tim.

Enough problem using Sauvignon Blanc. Tim

Just use a heat gun & away it goes in secs. Acid. Man o man Tim I am 82 & need to make 83.
You cannot trust me with acid. :tears-of-joy:

Laurie

PS cheeky but thanks for the info. ;)
 
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