Icm wot 8

Mark1

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Mark, just been looking through and was thinking how good the subtle dirt was on the back cargo area, your not changing it are you ?
Thanks John, I've had a look in daylight and I'm happy enough with it,looks much better than I thought so no I won't change it now, may add just a tiny bit of pigments here and there.
 

John Race

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Thanks John, I've had a look in daylight and I'm happy enough with it,looks much better than I thought so no I won't change it now, may add just a tiny bit of pigments here and there.
Good, it looked so natural Mark, think any more work on it would just tip it over ( figuratively speaking of course :smiling3: )
 

Dave Ward

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Mark,
you've really done the WOT justice! I always find it tricky to know when to stop weathering/washing. I try to put a model aside for a day or so, before looking at it again. One thing I would say is the tyres look a bit too shiny & need a little matting down & 'dirt' adding in the tread.
These ICM softskins are now, in my opinion the best on the market - I have been looking at reviews of the Leyland Retriever, and when prices are more favourable I'll probably aim for one of those.............
Dave
 

GerryW

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Great work on this.
Looking at the canvas, for me, it's molded 'too tight' and doesn't show the ribs, but looks like a solid cover (found that a lot of kits are similar, and the canvas covers just don't look 'right' - why I tend to not use them :upside: )
 

Mark1

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Mark,
you've really done the WOT justice! I always find it tricky to know when to stop weathering/washing. I try to put a model aside for a day or so, before looking at it again. One thing I would say is the tyres look a bit too shiny & need a little matting down & 'dirt' adding in the tread.
These ICM softskins are now, in my opinion the best on the market - I have been looking at reviews of the Leyland Retriever, and when prices are more favourable I'll probably aim for one of those.............
Dave
Thanks dave :thumb2: :smiling:
Yes I took to much weathering back off the tyres cleaning them up,will do something with them. Done a couple of ICM kits now and really like them as well. I'm hoping they will bring the out matador at some point.
 

Mark1

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Great work on this.
Looking at the canvas, for me, it's molded 'too tight' and doesn't show the ribs, but looks like a solid cover (found that a lot of kits are similar, and the canvas covers just don't look 'right' - why I tend to not use them :upside: )
Cheers Gerry,:thumb2: still in two minds with the canvas, see what it looks like with some weathering but I may possibly use just the canvas frame yet, undecided!
 

GerryW

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Cheers Gerry,:thumb2: still in two minds with the canvas, see what it looks like with some weathering but I may possibly use just the canvas frame yet, undecided!
Looking forward to seeing how it looks after weathering :thumb2:
Not sure why the kit makers won't spend that little extra effort to get them looking 'right'. It does create another dilemma though - where does the canvas wear away the paint on the framework ;) :upside: :thumb2:
 

Mark1

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Looking forward to seeing how it looks after weathering :thumb2:
Not sure why the kit makers won't spend that little extra effort to get them looking 'right'.
I know what you mean, if you look on the side there is a lot of tie points so it would be quite tight anyway but definitely could look better! The top and two ends look OK.
 

GerryW

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I know what you mean, if you look on the side there is a lot of tie points so it would be quite tight anyway but definitely could look better! The top and two ends look OK.
Ends look good - got the 'ripples' in where the material is pulled, and the sides should really have the same effect towards the tie points (only way I've ever had side curtains without that sort of effect, was by heaving on the end ratchets to the point that I'd have to 'bounce' it to the next click! Even with that after a few miles they'd have stretched a little. ;) )
 

Mark1

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Had another go at the wheels, I used pigment with a few drops of burnt umber acrylic wash and fair amount of water mixed up and brushed on then cleaned the high spots with a wettish cotton bud,first time I've tried it and think I could be my new method,will have to experiment with it,dries and can be cleaned up in minutes. Can get dust or mud depends how thick it's mixed. 20210615_231345.jpg20210615_231115.jpg
 

adt70hk

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Mark

Sorry missed the updates. That's coming on very nicely indeed.

Andrew
 

The Smythe Meister

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Been following this from the outset Mark,
You`ve certainly made a cracking job of it,most impressive :cool: ,
I think the weathering is pretty cool as is,when it comes to kit supplied "Tarps"...... well,best to say they present the modeller with a "Challenge",that`s for sure!!:astonished:
Lovely stuff mate,is it going on a base or have i missed that info?
Cheers,
Andy
 

The Smythe Meister

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Mark,
you've really done the WOT justice! I always find it tricky to know when to stop weathering/washing. I try to put a model aside for a day or so, before looking at it again. One thing I would say is the tyres look a bit too shiny & need a little matting down & 'dirt' adding in the tread.
These ICM softskins are now, in my opinion the best on the market - I have been looking at reviews of the Leyland Retriever, and when prices are more favourable I'll probably aim for one of those.............
Dave
Dave,
I`ve been looking at adding that exact same kit to my Truck stash too,but i have to admit the prices i`ve seen asked are ridiculous!!......
...... Definitely way more than i`m prepared to pay,can`t understand exactly why they cost what they do:thinking:,( i`m talking about £40 odd !!!),
I`ll keep on watching them mind,because,as you say,this range of trucks are seriously good!!
Andy
 

Mark1

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Been following this from the outset Mark,
You`ve certainly made a cracking job of it,most impressive :cool: ,
I think the weathering is pretty cool as is,when it comes to kit supplied "Tarps"...... well,best to say they present the modeller with a "Challenge",that`s for sure!!:astonished:
Lovely stuff mate,is it going on a base or have i missed that info?
Cheers,
Andy
Thanks Andy, :thumb2: yeah I'm going to have a go at a base for it,it'll be my first so I'm going to keep it simple,I'll start adding more interest to them once I am comfortable with getting a decent ground effect, want to get a static grass applicator and try that out at some point.
 

The Smythe Meister

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Thanks Andy, :thumb2: yeah I'm going to have a go at a base for it,it'll be my first so I'm going to keep it simple,I'll start adding more interest to them once I am comfortable with getting a decent ground effect, want to get a static grass applicator and try that out at some point.
A very sensible approach if i may say so mate :thumb2: ,
As for the static grass applicator,well,they can be quite pricey ..... if i could suggest 2 things?....
1,if you wanna REALLY CHEAP option..... load the base with PVA glue,sprinkle on your static grass and rub a balloon on your shirt;)...... yes,i said a BALLOON..... any old cheap party balloon will suffice,the rubbing will statically charge it,hence,when you pass it over your grass it will stand up.... and a bonus is,any of the grass that wasn`t securely fixed will migrate to the balloon and make it easy to rub off and re-use!:cool:
2,If you go on YouTube,put in "Static Grass Applicator"..... there are several examples showing you how to make one for just a few quid, admittedly they`re not as powerful as the expensive ones,but as you want to start off with small bases it would be a nice starting item.:thumb2:
Just a thought mind,sorry for rambling on!! :astonished:
Andy
 

Tim Marlow

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Love this Mark. Just a bit more dust on the chassis area and it will seem real! As to static grass applicators, the fly swat home made types work pretty well. I used one for a few years until I sprung for a flock box type. There are several “how Too’s” around, and it really isn’t hard. The only drawback is that they can take a while to cover a larger area.
 
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