M29C Water Weasel

Jim R

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Hi Jakko
That pe front shield thing - I reckon your solution was the best and your only choice. The rear is straightforward because of the overlap.
Certainly a testing kit but you have it sorted now.
Jim
 

Jakko

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Can you take that piece off, anneal it then bend it to fit the profile of the resin.
It’s not glued on, the Blu-Tack was all that was holding it in place :smiling3: Annealing may help with getting the bends right, but that won’t solve the problem of the gaps between the shield and the floatation cell :sad:

Certainly a testing kit but you have it sorted now.
I wish I was that confident that this is the last difficult bit :smiling3:
 

Tim Marlow

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not convinced by the etched piece anyway Jakko. It doesn’t show the top edge beading or the join in the middle.
 

Jakko

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I had observed that too. The etched part had a thin raised line along the top edge (as do the bits on the side) which I think is supposed to represent the beading. I intended to glue some thin copper wire or plastic rod along them anyway, as well as add the reinforcing strip in the middle and other bits that are missing. Might as well scratchbuild the whole thing ;)
 

Tim Marlow

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I had observed that too. The etched part had a thin raised line along the top edge (as do the bits on the side) which I think is supposed to represent the beading. I intended to glue some thin copper wire or plastic rod along them anyway, as well as add the reinforcing strip in the middle and other bits that are missing. Might as well scratchbuild the whole thing ;)
The thin raised line could well be the etched cusp left behind when the part is made. It used to be quite common on poorly etched parts back in the day. It usually happens because the etch acid is spent and should be changed, so is cutting more slowly. Remember, etch acid cuts a curve through the part. The slower it cuts then the longer it is in the etch bath and the more sideways it cuts. The etcher was probably squeezing out a few more parts to save money before changing the acid. Basically poor quality control.
 

Jakko

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No, this line is definitely meant to be there :smiling3: The part has half its depth etched away for most of its surface, so that two little fittings on the front and the line at the top remain. You can see them in this picture:

 
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GerryW

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Caught up on this.
Looks as though it's a right PITA, but you're doing a wonderful job, overcoming all obstacles and creating a silk purse from a sows ear.
 

John Race

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Seems it some sort of lip ? or have I missed the point. Normally Mirror Models are good at PE, that's a shame in this case.
 

Jakko

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The little etched ridge, you mean? I think that’s what it’s supposed to represent, or at least the rounded edge that’s there on the real thing. My idea is that it would have been better to cast it in resin together with the bow, though that would have made it thicker, of course, and probably tricker to cast.
 

Jakko

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I continued work on the rear floatation cell first, by trimming and filing the plastic card to shape:

0430F76D-2A29-49E5-A314-0A6033314477.jpeg

The curve on the underside is slightly bigger than on the resin part, to avoid having an odd step there instead. Then all that remained (for now) was to stick it to the rear of the hull:

12026DE2-0640-4F94-B34D-F0B4E40048CE.jpeg

At the front, I taped a piece of paper tight over the bow, like I said I was going to try:

66B9444E-69BE-4AB1-BCAE-235EDE78526F.jpeg

It’s angled so it sits flat against the lower part of the bow and so extends its line upward. Then the problem of how to transfer the shape needed to the paper. If you use a pencil, your line will end up just a little bit above/inside the material, meaning you would then have to guess how much to compensate by. Spraying paint at the join line would work very well, but I don’t like cleaning airbrushes and didn’t have anything else I want to spray either right now (killing two birds with one stone, so to speak), so I hit on trying the same with a brush:

318C5DBC-6229-4221-911E-632B07EE9F84.jpeg

I had to press the paper against the model from behind when doing this, and had little paint on the brush so it wouldn’t run, but it worked very well:

287861B4-B0FE-4599-81AC-C915EACD76AB.jpeg

The next step will probably be to scan this, trace over it in Adobe Illustrator, draw the upper part as well, and then print it out so I can paste it to plastic card and cut the shape I need. But as my computer still isn’t usable, that will have to wait a bit, I guess :sad:
 

Jim R

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Hi Jakko
Certainly inventive. Looks like it has worked and hopefully you'll end up with front shield that fits.
Jim
 

Jakko

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I certainly hope so :smiling3: A handy thing about tracing it on a computer and printing it, is that if I still make it wrong, I can easily print out a new one for a second attempt without needing to make a whole new template from the beginning.
 
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