scottie3158
SMF Supporter
To all the figure sculptors out there, I want to try and represent a jacket that is hanging over a wall. Any pointers on how to achieve this will be welcome.
making uniforms
- Thread starter scottie3158
- Start date
Hi Scottie - Duro
I have used Duro to clothe shaved down figures by cutting out shapes in the same way as a dressmaker would
Roll it out wafer thin then smear with Vaseline to cut down the stickiness
Leave it for a while to start to cure
While it is doing that measure up a figure and work out the dimensions for the jacket and sleeves
Then, like a dressmaker mark out the basic shapes, flattened out as if you were making it for real out of cloth.
So main jacket shape flattened out without sleeves and each sleeve wide enough that they would wrap around a scale arm
Once you have the basic shapes cut out wrap the sleeves around something and join the edges, fold the jacket, then add the sleeves
Drape the whole thing over your wall and it will naturally drape - push in additional creases as required
Once set you can then do the detailing - pockets, collar etc
I have used Duro to clothe shaved down figures by cutting out shapes in the same way as a dressmaker would
Roll it out wafer thin then smear with Vaseline to cut down the stickiness
Leave it for a while to start to cure
While it is doing that measure up a figure and work out the dimensions for the jacket and sleeves
Then, like a dressmaker mark out the basic shapes, flattened out as if you were making it for real out of cloth.
So main jacket shape flattened out without sleeves and each sleeve wide enough that they would wrap around a scale arm
Once you have the basic shapes cut out wrap the sleeves around something and join the edges, fold the jacket, then add the sleeves
Drape the whole thing over your wall and it will naturally drape - push in additional creases as required
Once set you can then do the detailing - pockets, collar etc
Hi Paul. I suggest you try to watch some sculpting videos on youtube. Not per se on clothing hanging over a wall, but it might help you understand how to sculpt those details. Bill Horan, Radek Pituch, Tom Hugues and Roger Hurkmans come to mind and have very interesting features there. Helped me a lot.
Cheers
Cheers
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Cheers Simon, that was the way I was thinking good tip about the vasaline I normally use talc but that sounds better. Thanks very much for the pointers.
Wouter, Thanks mate I will have a look. I did look up modelling uniforms but all showed, on the body.
Peter Gillson
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- Peter
Hi)aul
i would use a Duro/Magicsculpt mix (50/50) although either on their own would be fine. The most important adviceI can give is to take photos of a jacket on a wall for reference, thereis nothing like working from real life.
Peter
i would use a Duro/Magicsculpt mix (50/50) although either on their own would be fine. The most important adviceI can give is to take photos of a jacket on a wall for reference, thereis nothing like working from real life.
Peter
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Peter that is a great idea thanks.
Paul.
I can't offer any help what so ever, still have the thought of Simon with his Duro rolled out on the table , scissors in hand, needle and thread gripped in his mouth with a small oil lamp in the corner.
I can't offer any help what so ever, still have the thought of Simon with his Duro rolled out on the table , scissors in hand, needle and thread gripped in his mouth with a small oil lamp in the corner.
Couple of extra points if using Duro on its own....
Before mixing Duro I cut off half mm of the yellow edge from the bit you will be using and the same from down the middle where the blue and green meet - this minimises the chance of getting lumps in your mix.
The yellow edge dries out slightly and the interface between the two colours starts to harden because you have the two components touching. It doesn’t appear to affect the blue.
If you don’t do this and flatten it out there is a good chance you will find hard lumps that do not mix in
The amount of lumpiness is probably related to the age of the pack of Duro but even if a pack is new to you it could have been sat on a suppliers shelf for some time
Mix as normal then apply a smear of p.jelly to the blob - really doesn’t need much at all, just touch your finger to the p.jelly and it will be enough, no need to spread it on like butter!
I use a polished granite coaster to roll out the putty on but glass or ceramic tile works as well - gives a lovely smooth surface
The P.jelly also allows you to burnish the finished surface, before it sets, with a finger tip - light pressure lets you get a really smooth surface
If you want texture lightly dab the finished article with a bit of tee shirt or similar, being careful not to squish your masterpiece of course
You can CA bits together if needed then shape them before they set
Clean off Vaseline (petroleum jelly - I got a tub of generic stuff from wilkos for £1 that will last years) with lighter fluid before painting
If you go for actual sculpting from a blob of putty then Peter’s your man
My sculpting leaves a bit to be desired so I decided to go with Shrinking down the full size process
Almost John, actually a small stone coaster, rather than a table, balanced on my knee
Before mixing Duro I cut off half mm of the yellow edge from the bit you will be using and the same from down the middle where the blue and green meet - this minimises the chance of getting lumps in your mix.
The yellow edge dries out slightly and the interface between the two colours starts to harden because you have the two components touching. It doesn’t appear to affect the blue.
If you don’t do this and flatten it out there is a good chance you will find hard lumps that do not mix in
The amount of lumpiness is probably related to the age of the pack of Duro but even if a pack is new to you it could have been sat on a suppliers shelf for some time
Mix as normal then apply a smear of p.jelly to the blob - really doesn’t need much at all, just touch your finger to the p.jelly and it will be enough, no need to spread it on like butter!
I use a polished granite coaster to roll out the putty on but glass or ceramic tile works as well - gives a lovely smooth surface
The P.jelly also allows you to burnish the finished surface, before it sets, with a finger tip - light pressure lets you get a really smooth surface
If you want texture lightly dab the finished article with a bit of tee shirt or similar, being careful not to squish your masterpiece of course
You can CA bits together if needed then shape them before they set
Clean off Vaseline (petroleum jelly - I got a tub of generic stuff from wilkos for £1 that will last years) with lighter fluid before painting
If you go for actual sculpting from a blob of putty then Peter’s your man
My sculpting leaves a bit to be desired so I decided to go with Shrinking down the full size process
Almost John, actually a small stone coaster, rather than a table, balanced on my knee
Last edited:
Steve Jones
Steve Jones Scale Modelling Site
I have always wanted to include uniforms on my builds and failed miserably. I wish you all the best with your attempt and look forward to seeing the results
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Steve, I am looking forward to having a go but what the result will be is a different question
Neil Merryweather
SMF Supporter
I'm watching avidly, Paul
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
No pressure then lol
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
I had a go not to bad but room for improvement.
Where? How?
Pete
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Paul you should be pleased with that outcome, no one would think it was your first " tailoring " experience.
scottie3158
SMF Supporter
Thanks John.