Medium Tank M3 from MiniArt — not a Sherman for once!

Jakko

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Okay, it’s very close to a Sherman, I admit :smiling3: But it’s because I’ve building a bunch of Shermans of late, that I also wanted its immediate ancestor in my collection, the Medium Tank M3, better known to most people as the M3 Lee.

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As a bit of background, when the United States saw the war in Europe kick off in 1939–40, they quickly realised their brand-new Medium Tank M2 was already woefully obsolete:

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It was far too tall, and suffered from having thin armour, only a 37 mm gun and far too many machine guns. What was wanted was a 75 mm gun in the turret, but that would require a tank far more complicated than anything that had ever been designed in the USA before. As an interim solution, the US Army decided to instead upgrade the M2 by reshaping its hull to add a 75 mm gun in a sponson mount, as well as make other improvements based on experience. This evolved into the M3, which shared almost no parts with the M2 but is clearly a derivative of it.

British tank experts were involved (well, more like “consulted”) in its design, but for the most part, they were not listened to — partly because their low opinions of British tank design frequently made the Americans deaf to hard-learned British combat experience as well. As a result, the M3 still ended up with too many machine guns, including one in a small turret on top of the main turret that proved hard to use in practice, and the radio in the hull rather than the turret. The British did get one concession, that a number of M3s would be built with a British-designed turret that had the radio in it, and had a simple hatch for the commander instead of the useless sub-turret.

To the US military, all these tanks were known as “Medium Tank M3”, but when the British received them under the lend-lease arrangement, they quickly got confused by the American designations, as they also got the Light Tank M3 and the Medium Tank M4. To keep everybody sane, they decided to name these tanks: the Medium Tank M3 became the Lee if it had the American-designed turret, or the Grant with the British one, after the American Civil War generals. (The Light Tank M3 was named Stuart and the Medium Tank M4, Swallow. The latter was soon changed to Sherman.)

Because of engine production shortages, different versions of the M3 were soon developed that were powered by alternative engine types, most of which would later also see use on the M4. Most variants had fully riveted hulls, but on (the M3A1) had a cast upper hull, and a few subtypes had welded hulls instead. Other improvements during production included the deletion of the large side doors in the hull, which were weak points.

The M3 was always intended as an interim design, to be used until the M4 with its turreted 75 mm gun could be introduced. However, the M3 did see combat with both the British and American forces inn North Africa, though it was obsolete for the war in Europe and didn’t see service there (except for derivatives). Many were also supplied to the Russians, who also used them in combat against the Germans. The British later shipped many of theirs to India, where the tanks were deployed against the Japanese in northeastern India and Burma.

Here’s a guided tour of the out- and insides:

 

Jakko

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So, this will be a MiniArt kit, who have released a series of kits of different variants of the Medium Tank M3 in recent years. A few weeks ago, I bought this kit second-hand:

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As far as I can tell, this is the first kit from the series, and it will be quite an involved build because it has a complete interior. Not just the crew areas but a full engine compartment as well. Because of the modular nature of MiniArt’s line of kits, you get a LOT of sprues in the box … The photos below show them all (front and back of any that are in it twice or more times):

1CDABEBF-C8B0-40AF-8666-1FA62F64EA84.jpegB76DADBD-3B4A-45F8-91CC-A3797E9BF55F.jpegA2FDA035-0809-442E-A17D-831F3BE3302B.jpegC50FF215-120E-4409-B66B-3A1B81B92784.jpegCFAB057D-50A2-4B76-9386-11F291943D1E.jpeg26A592C6-7923-40B4-9ED0-EA71A6D935CE.jpegEFF1A271-6A9C-496F-BE8F-7702355CE4A2.jpeg

As you can see, there is also a photo-etched fret with not just replacement parts, but ones that aren’t given in plastic at all. I’m not sure this is a great idea, because it means that if you’re not comfortable working with it, you can’t fall back on the plastic parts instead.

The parts are well-moulded and I can’t see any real flash worth mentioning. However, many parts are small and look like they may be prone to breaking when removed from the sprue. We’ll cross that bridge as we get to it, though.

Markings are provided for eight different vehicles: two American, one Canadian, three Soviet and two German (captured from the Soviets). There are some issues with the American markings, though, and I think the colour recommendation for the Canadian vehicle is probably wrong.

I’ve not pictured the instructions. If you want to see them, you can download a copy at Scalemates.

The previous owner also threw in a set of aluminium barrels:

E5F1F6AD-39E4-442C-B634-DAA324730908.jpeg
 

Tim Marlow

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Looks interesting. What markings are you going for Jakko? This one wasn’t a popular lend lease tank in Russia was it. I think they called it the grave for seven brothers......
 
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Jakko

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I want to do an early American example, with the roundels rather than plain stars. However, those roundels have the most obvious mistake in the markings in the kit … the disc in the centre should be inside the lines formed by the sides of the star, not touching the inner points like it does in these decals — in other words, the red disc is much too big. There were also similar markings with the red and blue reversed, but I can’t find right now when those were in use, exactly.
 

Dave Ward

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Oh dear! Those tracks just give me the jitters just looking at them - The Stuart tracks nearly put me off model making, and those were shorter!. Best of luck - bottles of Jenever & Valium at the ready!
Dave
 

Jakko

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I’m not looking forward to the tracks, no. Then again, I’m currently working on the tracks for my latest Sherman, and they have similar construction but 50% more parts, because they have two blocks per link rather than one …

What I intend (hope?) to do is work on the tracks intermittently as I build the rest of the kit, so it won’t be the usual case of the model being finished, except that I still have to build the whole tracks.

And if all else fails, I still have a set of Asuka soft plastic tracks for the early M4A1 that should fit this kit just fine too :smiling3:
 

Jim R

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Hi Jakko
Interesting background story. Looks typical MiniArt. As you say some of those parts look very fragile an then the tracks - oh what fun :rolling:Looking forward to this.
Jim
 
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Jakko

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To be honest, the tracks look like less hassle than the RFM Sherman tracks I have on the go. On the other hand, RFM provides a track jig while I’ll probably have to make one myself for these.
 
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Jakko

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Construction began by putting a plate into the hole in the hull floor. MiniArt provides this because the versions of the M3 that didn’t have side doors, had an escape hatch in the floor instead. The kit provides both the hatch and a blanking plate, and since this kit has side doors, it needs the latter. However, there is a very visible gap around the plate, so I had to fill that.

7CEF7C14-2B8C-4E72-A93A-8F9D05888502.jpeg

The plate is slightly thicker than the hull floor, though, so there is a bit of a bump here. I don’t consider this a problem because it will only be visible through the roof hatch above it, so it shouldn’t be apparent. Far less apparent than a great big square seam in the floor, anyway :smiling3:

At this point, I decided I know better than MiniArt how to assemble their kit …

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This is the basic hull tub: two floor plates, two side plates, the transmission cover on the nose and the engine firewall. MiniArt, though, would have you leave off the side plates until nearly everything is fixed to the floor and firewall. Given that the fit of the side plates is somewhat fiddly — they fit well after minor fettling, but are a little thin and bend a bit — I have my doubts about that sequence of construction.
 

JR

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Reminds me of the T35 with all those guns and turrets.
MiniArt plastic is always so soft compared to most other manufacturers feel you get a bit more lee way when removing small parts from the sprue.
 

Jakko

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This is the first MiniArt vehicle kit I’ve bought, I only got a few sets of figures from them until now. The plastic does seem a little softer than of some other manufacturers, but not so soft that you have the be careful you don’t accidentally take too much off. Maybe, though, I should replace my knife blade, as I think it’s getting dull, and that might change my opinion :smiling3:
 
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Tim Marlow

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I’ve only made one miniart vehicle myself. I found the plastic nice to work with, but a little brittle, snapping easily when being cleaned up. This seems better so perhaps the bar has been raised. Great detail on the kit though.
 

Jakko

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I went to work on this model a bit more today, and the first thing I did was remove and clean up some rod with two linkages than goes on the hull floor. One of those linkages broke as I removed the part from the sprue :smiling3: At least that has taught me to be more careful with this kit’s finer parts …
 

Jakko

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Making progress:

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I built some of the bits that go inside and painted the inaccessible areas white (though I found since that a few more need that before I can go on).
 

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Hi Jakko
At this point, I decided I know better than MiniArt how to assemble their kit …
Just shows how important it is to read ahead in the instructions. As you say manufacturers don't always know the best way.
Good progress with the fiddly interior bits.
I should replace my knife blade, as I think it’s getting dull
Trouble is the dullness creeps up on you and until you put in a new blade you don't realise how blunt the old one had become.
Jim
 

Jakko

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Just shows how important it is to read ahead in the instructions. As you say manufacturers don't always know the best way.
Good progress with the fiddly interior bits.
I definitely recommend deviating from the sequence with this kit (or its relatives, I suppose). I’ve already noticed a good number of items that MiniArt would have you fit before others, and which are either fragile or get in the way.

Trouble is the dullness creeps up on you and until you put in a new blade you don't realise how blunt the old one had become.
I did swap the blade, and at a point where the difference was marked. I was cleaning up one of the two steering levers and really noticed the amount of effort it cost me to do that neatly, so I wouldn’t break the fragile lever. I put in a new blade, and cleaning up the second lever took about half the time and effort.
 

Jakko

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Most of the parts for the driver’s compartment are now in place:

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This feels a bit like how I imagine it must be to build a ship in a bottle … I can see why MiniArt would have you fit the sides after all this stuff, but I can’t really see how you would get the transmission lined up well without the side walls in place. Maybe the best way would be to tape the sides in place, put the drive shaft and transmission in and when the glue is dry, remove the sides again so you can install the pedals, actuating levers, seat and all that other stuff in there.

The back wall also has most of its bits:

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I replaced the supplied jerrycan by one from Italeri, because I didn’t find the cross embossed in the MiniArt one convincing enough. I modified the Italeri can to represent a water can rather than a fuel can (the difference is the cap and the embossing in the body) because I doubt there would have been a fuel can strapped to the firewall :smiling3: The handle is broken, but not a problem because it will be entirely out of sight (which is why I used this handle in the first place: it was broken on the sprue).

Here is the ammunition rack that goes in the middle of the hull, just in front of the filled escape hatch:

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I still need to do more painting on it before I can glue it into the hull, and I’ll mask off the shells before I do so they won’t get sprayed white late on :smiling3:
 
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