Mig Pigments

[Neill]

Hi

Absolutely gutted!! Got outbid at the last 20 minutes for Mig sand and earth and Mig Urban Combat pigments on Ebay. I would have got both plus postage and packing for about £30 or so. Anyone know where you can get these pigments for a reasonable price (the model shop near me sells them for £21.50 so anything per set below that)? Also or they that good as this would have been my first use of them had I won 'em??

Neill:emo10:

 

[AlanG]

You asked John for a price?

 

[Sky Raider]

Yeh, try our excellent shop. best prices all round i found and the service is second to none.

Andy

 

[Richy C]

Why not use the forum shop , I would recommend buying singularly although I`ve got about 8-9 mig pigment colours I tend to only use 5 - mud - sand - black - dust - rust colours with these you can pretty much mix to what colours you wan`t , and cheaper than buying the mig packs ,

this is only my opinion but it works for me

Richy

 

[Neill]

Why not use the forum shop , I would recommend buying singularly although I`ve got about 8-9 mig pigment colours I tend to only use 5 - mud - sand - black - dust - rust colours with these you can pretty much mix to what colours you wan`t , and cheaper than buying the mig packs , this is only my opinion but it works for me

Richy

Thanks Richy. I will have a browse on the Scale Model Shop. Someone replied to a previous question I had about using Lifecolor Tensochrome acyrilc stains (oil and grease stains etc) over Revell enamel paints and that it is safe to do so once the enamel is cured. I have read that it can peel enamel off. As I will obviously be using the Lifecolor for weathering it will be going over my Revell enamel paint. I am somewhat confused as some postings on other model forums report that enamel will peel with acrylics. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Bunkerbarge]

Usually acrylics will go over enamels OK once they have hardened and enamels generally will not go over acrylics however this is not etched in stone and different manufacturer's paints behave slightly differently.

I would always recommend you do a test piece to be absolutely sure, it doesn't take long and it could save you a lot of heartache. Don't forget with pigments you can also make washes with them in water which is of course completely safe although requiring a clear cote to finish.

 

[noble]

Hi neill my question to you here is do you need actual mig pigments? the reason i ask is i own some but i tend to find myself going back to artists pastels more and more these pastel were bought at Rymans for£5.oo and they come in every colour under the sun and in a large box, personally i will not pay the cash for these as my pastels do just as good a job.

scott

 

[john]

There's other pigments that are better value for money, the promodeller pigments come in 50ml tubs that should last you a while, the only downside is no one does the range that mig do

 

[Neill]

Scott/John

Thanks for your ongoing advice. Scott you mention artists pastels. I take it you are referring to the oil based variety? Do you scrape these on to the model with a craft knife to produce the desired effect? Excuse the dozy questions as I am a newbie at this whole tank building game!!!

Neill

 

[Bunkerbarge]

They look basically like square sticks of chalk. You can get them from any artist suppliers in sets or individually and you simply rub them on a piece of sandpaper to generate a powder that you can then use to make washes, mix with clear varnishes to make textured coverings or simply apply dry.

 

[noble]

Hi Neill the pastels you want are Not the oil based kind, like richard says these are like coloured chalk all you do is grind them up on sandpaper and you can either use them dry or mix them with thinners to create a wash, also if you mix them with Mig resign you get realistic muddy clumps on wheels and running gear.

Earlier isaid you can get them from Rymans it was actually a shop called the Works.

scott

 

[andygh]

I got mine in Tesco believe it or not

 

[msm2]

Same here got the from Tesco. Used alittle on the Non GB 109.

 

[Bunkerbarge]

Keep your eye on the kids stuff in pound shops as well as supermarkets. Yiu never know what you can pick up very cheaply sometimes.

 

[Neill]

Keep your eye on the kids stuff in pound shops as well as supermarkets. Yiu never know what you can pick up very cheaply sometimes.

A very belated Happy Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone. I have decided to put my Tamiya Stuka Zu Fuss 1/35 to the side and instead try to concentrate on a 1/72 Focke Wulf Fw 190 D9 as the Stuka Zu Fuss half-track was a bit to much for a first go at modelling planes/tanks etc. I still haven't solved what to do with airbrushing as the garage seems abit to cold at this time of the year (Still thats another problem for another day). Can I just check about the way different protective layers are applied in between say applying decals then weathering: the Americans talk about using Future Floor Polish (different name I think in the UK) and other people talk about clear cote. I have Flair Spectrum Matt Clear enamel based paint for finishing but can I use this in between layers/stages of painting as mentioned above with acrylics (as I will be using Tamiyas own paint on the Focke Wulf)? As concerns the pastels you would not believe how many times I have been in Asda/Tesco over the past three weeks! I will have a good noisy round on my next visit.

 

[noble]

Hi Neill yes what you are reffering to is called Johnsons klear, or the new formula which is called pledge klear i think, these can be bought at super markets and are self leveling floor polishes which can either be applied by airbrush or a brush i prefer using a brush and i personally apply 2 coats on aircraft then apply the decals, followed by another 2 coats it is then weathered and a coat of matt varnish is used to seal everything.

 

[Neill]

Hi Neill yes what you are reffering to is called Johnsons klear, or the new formula which is called pledge klear i think, these can be bought at super markets and are self leveling floor polishes which can either be applied by airbrush or a brush i prefer using a brush and i personally apply 2 coats on aircraft then apply the decals, followed by another 2 coats it is then weathered and a coat of matt varnish is used to seal everything.

Hi and thanks. Yet another reason to visit Tescos for anything other than drink for New Years Eve. Have you ever heard of the Flair piant I mentioned in my last post? I got it out of my local model shop and although its not varnish (I don't think it is anyway as it claims its enamel based) I think I can use it anyway. Do you thin the matt varnish down at all?

 

[noble]

Hi Neill because i use Vallajo matt varnish it is water based... so yes i will add a little water to the varnish, mix it together and the varnish goes a long way. I have to say i've never heard of the stuff you mentioned at all... sorry mate not mush help there.

scott

 

[Krieg-Hammer]

I bought some pastels from the works, earth like colours, dark for fresh and light for dry clay dirt. This is what I want to do with them on this youtube video...

[video=youtube;iGA32YSK9Uw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGA32YSK9Uw

If this works then happy days! Save a fortune from buying Mig Pigments. He mentions rubbing alcohol, anything you guys would recommend? Will this permanently fix the ground up pastel or will it flake off in time?