Model kit glue

[AlanG]

both MEK and Cellulose thinners have MSDS exposure limits, but MEK use only advices good ventilation, not respiratory protection. You can minimise exposure in use by decanting the bulk to a small narrow necked bottle so reducing evaporation.

After working for 17 years in engineering using MEK and suffering an exposure to MEK fumes, i accept that the MSDS CoSHH database advises good ventilation. But going on the basis that most modellers workspaces are smallish, confined areas, i would still recommend the mask.

Each to their own though. Once bitten, twice shy these days.

 

[JR]

Right that's it, I've plans for an out side covered assembly and gluing area. !

Joking apart, the replies to this post have been both enlightening and frightening, as Al has said most of us probably work in confined areas and the thought of breathing harmful fumes does not impress me.
I had enough of dust and chemical fumes when working.

Quite often I've had a head ache after a gluing session, more so when I have one of those oil heaters on when working in the winter months.

Using a glue which doesn't have strong fumes can still be worrying so I shall have more ventilation in future .
Pleased that this thread was started in the first place .
John .

 

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Alan
From a safety perspective “elimination” comes before “protection”. If you work in a really confined area with little or no ventilation I would actually recommend using something else, such as contacta. Wearing personal protective equipment (PPE) should always be very much a last resort.

 

[Jakko]

I always use revell contacta. To me it smells like pear drops (which i love).

That’s because certain solvents are chemically similar to the substances that give fruit its smell, and so the receptors in your nose respond to both in similar ways. If it smells like pear drops, it probably contains ethyl acetate.

 

[Dave W]

You would be also wise to point out that MEK is VERY flammable and also VERY toxic. The vapours can cause you a lot of damage to your nervous and breathing systems. MEK was the replacement Trichloroethane or Trich as it's known (now banned). Ventilation is paramount and the use of a recognised vapour mask is also advised. I am saying this as i have a first hand knowledge of just how bad MEK is. I was placed on oxygen because i was overcome by the vapours. I was also witness to an explosion when MEK vapours ignited due to a static discharge. It's not a liquid to be messed with.

I work in the aviation industry and it’s definitely not a liquid to mess around with. I personally won’t use it for modelling purposes.Even though I have access to as much as I want for free. When I was in the RAF I used it to clean the fuel couplings inside an F4 Phantom before fitting the bag tanks. I was in an enclosed space and suddenly felt like I was swimming in mid air. My safety man realised some thing was wrong,grabbed my collar and pulled me out. This was the late 70’s and we didn’t have proper breathing equipment.So if you are using it be careful.

 

[Bortig the Viking]

Hi, I'm getting totally confused over my glue, I have tamiya extra thin with a strong smell, but have seen deluxe plastic magic which is supposed to have low smell. My dilemma is I've read pros and cons for both and need help choosing the best one, low smell and quality would be good but want good performance as well. Help !!!

 

[BattleshipBob]

Hi mr viking, hope the long boat is well

I have moved to deluxe and have had no headaches, no compliants about glue smells and the 2 supplied brushes are ideal. Only issue i have found is it evaporates quite quickly, but i will stick with it.

 

[Spartan]

I am so pleased I put this glue thread up as we have also learnt about the harmful smells we breathe while glueing.
I know I have ordered Tamiya extra thin but when I come to use it I will air on the side of caution.

 

[Dave W]

Hi, I'm getting totally confused over my glue, I have tamiya extra thin with a strong smell, but have seen deluxe plastic magic which is supposed to have low smell. My dilemma is I've read pros and cons for both and need help choosing the best one, low smell and quality would be good but want good performance as well. Help !!!

I used Revell ‘contacta’ for years. Then last tear I tried Tamiya extra thin and have been using it ever since. Easy to use and dries faster than my old stuff.

 

[Bortig the Viking]

Crikes, may just have to try the deluxe and see for myself, trial and error seems to be the order of the day.
Thanks bobthestug, no raping and pillaging for me at the moment, my long ship is in for repairs, sprung a leak!
I wonder what glue they use! Haha.

 

[Jakko]

When I was in the RAF I used [MEK] to clean the fuel couplings inside an F4 Phantom before fitting the bag tanks. I was in an enclosed space and suddenly felt like I was swimming in mid air. My safety man realised some thing was wrong,grabbed my collar and pulled me out. This was the late 70’s and we didn’t have proper breathing equipment.So if you are using it be careful.

The main thing to keep in mind here is what Tim and I both mentioned before in this thread: the amount you’re exposed to. You were almost certainly using far more to clean those fuel couplings than you would to build a model, and I expect you didn’t use it from a bottle like those that liquid model cement comes in, with a small opening and a cap you close right after use.

 

[stillp]

but i will stick with it.

I see what you did there

Pete

 

[BattleshipBob]

Here all week Pete lol

 

[stillp]

That's a shame...

 

[Dave W]

I see what you did there

Pete

The main thing to keep in mind here is what Tim and I both mentioned before in this thread: the amount you’re exposed to. You were almost certainly using far more to clean those fuel couplings than you would to build a model, and I expect you didn’t use it from a bottle like those that liquid model cement comes in, with a small opening and a cap you close right after use.

I was just making the point that it's nasty stuff and shouldn't be used without good ventilation..

 

[BarryW]

We all have favourites but different types have different uses. What I use is as follows:

Mr Cement S - this is an extra thin cement (like Tamiya Extra Thin but even better). This is my main cement that I use for 80% of jobs. You hold the parts together and apply a drop of cement to the join and allow capillary action to weld the parts together. It can be used for everything from joining small parts to joining fuselage halves.

Mr Cement SP - this is new in my armoury and may well take over as my main cement. This is like Mr Cement S and used the same way but grips even faster. I dont see it as replacing Mr Cement S as sometimes it is useful to have one that still grips fast but provides a little more adjustment time. There is a black version of this that I have not tried yet but I an see how it would be useful for seam checking.

Mr Cement De Luz - this is my slower drying cement and I use this when you have no choice but to apply cement to a part before mating it. This does not get used very often but can be useful. The other two cements evaporate too quickly to use by this method.

Gator Grip Glue - This is my canopy glue, dries clear. Best not used on load bearing parts. Sometimes also useful for p.e. parts.

Three types of c.a. superglues; these are used to attach metal parts including p.e. also often for final fittings at the end of a build for weapons, aerials etc.
Thick - jell like c.a. that I use when I need plenty of adjustment time.
Medium - my general purpose c.a. for most jobs
Thin - when I want to use capillary action with c.a.

 

[Peter Gillson]

Hi Guys
I am coming a bit late to this thread but I thought this may be of some interest.

Back in 2006 I did an article for MilMod about glues. Attached is a pdf - sorry for the poor quality, I know I do not have the original text any more. It included the following table cross referencing materials to materials to types of glue.



One word of caution: it was produced in 2006 - 13 years ago!!!!

Peter

 

[Jakko]

I was just making the point that it's nasty stuff and shouldn't be used without good ventilation..

Which is true, but people these days tend to take advice like that too far and very quickly forego anything that seems to have even remote risks attached to it without looking at how they can limit or remove those risks.

 

[BattleshipBob]

Barry

Does mr cement give off much.fumes??

 

[BarryW]

Hi Bob. In my experience about the same as Tamiya.