Nozzle size - what’s it all about?

yak face

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No worries.

The 'over thinking' also puts people off. The thinning of paint is not absolutely critical. I used to be a chemist, I know what exact measurement means, and thinning paint for spraying it definitely is not!

You just need to experiment to find a consistency which will give the coverage you want, and pass through your brush freely. In my experience almost every pot or tin of paint is different, so giving ratios is pointless. Experimentation and experience are the only way to get it right most of the time. I do it by eye and the look of the paint in the cup. At the risk of sounding like a smarty-pants, I honestly don't remember the last time I got it far enough off to cause any problem

Don't be afraid to up the pressure you spray at. I was originally, many years ago, given some lessons by an airbrush artist rather than model maker and that is where I learned to spray at the relatively high pressures I use. Many airbrushes won't even work properly at the pressures I see touted about on some modelling forums!

Once you find the magic formula for the consistency of the medium you are spraying and the pressure you spray at, stick with it. There is no need ever to alter it and potentially provoke all sorts of issues. I continually see people advocating extra thinning and ridiculously low pressures to spray Luftwaffe mottle for example. Bollocks! I've been spraying it for years in exactly the same way as I spray everything else.

The acres of camouflage on the 1/24 Spitfire float plane were sprayed in EXACTLY the same was as the squiggle on this little Ba 349 Natter.

View attachment 318383

Good luck and have fun. After the initial learning curve you will find that airbrushing is not a dark art, in fact it is a doddle and great fun.

Cheers

Steve
Couldnt agree more Steve! i personally use the same methods as you , spraying at anything from 30-40 psi and not worrying about exact ratios. As you say , heavy thinning and spraying at mega low pressures just doesnt work for me and can cause all sorts of problems . My view is if you want a faint line or gentle mottle etc then dont press the trigger too hard and dont pull it back too far , these airbrushes are infinitely adjustable so its just a case of practising . above all though do what works for you and dont be fooled into thinking that theres only one way to do it, cheers tony
 
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MarshMan

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Okay, finally had a play. It was a mixed morning, probably because I started out with a couple of old Thayer and Chandler brushes I bought years ago but never got around to using. They are both side feed brushes and there were problems with both. But, I learned something none the less, and that was you have to pull as well as push!
Connecting up the brand new Chinese cheapy, I first put some water through it and, satisfied that it worked okay, I then put in a mix I’d made a day or two earlier. This was a well thinned (with distilled water) Windsor and Newton acrylic. I’m aware that this was a bit risky, but I had it to hand and went for it. It worked! I now played around with different pressures and distances before being called for tiffin. I had a quick clean up by tipping out the mixture, wiping out the bowl, blowing through some distilled water, and then repeating this sequence a couple more times before disconnecting the brush and taking it through to the bathroom where I removed the tip and gently used an old toothbrush to clean the nozzle and needle. I also had a scrub inside the bowl, but at this point realised I didn’t have anything to get into the ‘well’ (I’ve got small brushes coming). I’ve left a little water in the bowl and will check it out further tomorrow. Unfortunately I’ve been otherwise engaged this afternoon, and I’m hoping it can wait. The next major thing I learned was that the acrylic smells awful (well at least my ‘mixture’ did)! So this, I think, confirmed that painting is going to have to be confined to my workshop, particularly as I’ll be using enamels. I also realised that even this very short session should have been conducted with a mask on. A little more patience would have seen me wait for my new booth and mask:sad::sad:.
The story continues. I may start a new thread.
 

Dave Ward

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Max,
cotton buds! Essential part of the tool set, cleaning, applying, removing. Imagination the only limitation. Get a big tub from Pound shops/Tesco really cheap
Dave
 
M

MarshMan

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Max,
cotton buds! Essential part of the tool set, cleaning, applying, removing. Imagination the only limitation. Get a big tub from Pound shops/Tesco really cheap
Dave
Thanks Dave! I’ve got loads of ‘em, just totally forgot. As from now they’re on the bench!
Cheers
Max
 

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Max, IPA (isopropyl alcohol) is your friend for cleaning airbrushes. I get mine by the gallon from https://darrantchemicals.co.uk/isopropyl-alcohol.

I tend to blow through a cup of IPA then put the whole brush in a container (plastic take away type) with enough IPA to cover it. I just leave it in there until next use and just blow some tap water through before I add paint.

Edited to add: And interdental brushes are good for getting stubborn deposits out of nozzles.
 
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stillp

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Does IPA work with enamels Bob?

Pete
 

Mr Bowcat

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I'm not to sure Pete, I use acrylics. I have used it to clean car primer which is pretty tough stuff, so it might work with enamels??
 
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MarshMan

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Max, IPA (isopropyl alcohol) is your friend for cleaning airbrushes. I get mine by the gallon from https://darrantchemicals.co.uk/isopropyl-alcohol.

I tend to blow through a cup of IPA then put the whole brush in a container (plastic take away type) with enough IPA to cover it. I just leave it in there until next use and just blow some tap water through before I add paint.

Edited to add: And interdental brushes are good for getting stubborn deposits out of nozzles.
Hi Bob thanks for that, I’ve got a can of IPA that I use for lens cleaning. So I know that it acts as a degreaser, and evaporates quickly, but what does it do to acrylic?
 

Mr Bowcat

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Having just had already up it looks like IPA will work on enamels, but maybe not as well as other products. Have to admit I missed the part in your earlier post when you said you were using enamels. Doh!

It will clean acrylics straight out, no problem. Plus less nasty fumes with acrylics. I spray in the house (with a spray booth) so anything too pungent is a definite no for me. :smiling3:
 
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MarshMan

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Having just had already up it looks like IPA will work on enamels, but maybe not as well as other products. Have to admit I missed the part in your earlier post when you said you were using enamels. Doh!

It will clean acrylics straight out, no problem. Plus less nasty fumes with acrylics. I spray in the house (with a spray booth) so anything too pungent is a definite no for me. :smiling3:
Yeah, the first mistake I made was not realising that the Gunze Mr Colors were ‘solvent based’ which I’m assuming are enamels?
 
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MarshMan

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Gunzes are lacquer Max.

Cheers,
Richard
Okaaaaay Richard, finally sorted! I just went with the recommendation of the kit (Eduard) and for some reason assumed they were acrylics.
Cheers
Max
 

JR

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Morning Max .
It appears IPA is one the main constituents of acrylic airbrush cleaners and used in a lesser degree in thinners.
I used to buy rather expensive named cleaners now use the IPA in my ultrasonic cleaning tank.
The ultra sonic cleaner is a great tool, no chance of dropping the tip down the sink ! I bought a small one made by Ultra, just big enough to take the needle length. If you want to clean your glasses put a little washing up liquid in with some warm water, works a treat !:smiling2:
Glad you have made a start, practice is the best thing, and remember this is fun, that's what I keep telling my self !
John
 

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Agree with John about an US cleaner, great tool to have. Be warned though, it can take the plating/coating off of some items.

My other hobby is shooting. I used by US to clean the cylinder from my black poweder revolver and it took the bluing off! :tired:
 
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MarshMan

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Morning Max .
It appears IPA is one the main constituents of acrylic airbrush cleaners and used in a lesser degree in thinners.
I used to buy rather expensive named cleaners now use the IPA in my ultrasonic cleaning tank.
The ultra sonic cleaner is a great tool, no chance of dropping the tip down the sink ! I bought a small one made by Ultra, just big enough to take the needle length. If you want to clean your glasses put a little washing up liquid in with some warm water, works a treat !:smiling2:
Glad you have made a start, practice is the best thing, and remember this is fun, that's what I keep telling my self !
John
Morning John
Thanks for that additional info on IPA, I had no idea. I might look at ultrasonic cleaners in the future, but I need to give my money box time to accrue some more pennies! Re the glasses, that’s something I DID know about, been doing it for years!
Cheers
Max
 
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MarshMan

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Agree with John about an US cleaner, great tool to have. Be warned though, it can take the plating/coating off of some items.

My other hobby is shooting. I used by US to clean the cylinder from my black poweder revolver and it took the bluing off! :tired:
Now you’ve scared me Bob!
 

JR

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Agree with John about an US cleaner, great tool to have. Be warned though, it can take the plating/coating off of some items.

My other hobby is shooting. I used by US to clean the cylinder from my black poweder revolver and it took the bluing off! :tired:
Bob..... I forgot it can take the plating off, Max you can add distilled water to it if you want.
The normal shop cleaner removed the internal plating in the bowl of my H&S ! .
John
 
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MarshMan

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Bob..... I forgot it can take the plating off, Max you can add distilled water to it if you want.
The normal shop cleaner removed the internal plating in the bowl of my H&S ! .
John
Stop it John, I’m now living in fear!!
 

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MarshMan

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Don't Max...... IPA is as strong as you make it. Its not effected your glasses has it, and they are plastic lenses.
You could start by seeing if a week mix say 30% IPA gave good results.
John.
Hi John
The optics I’ve used it for have been mainly glass lenses in cameras, telescopes and binoculars to remove greasy fingerprints etc. I use washing up liquid for plastics whenever possible. I get the feeling that this could be a whole new thread?
 
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