Oggy trashes the Revell 1/48 Mosquito IV

[colin m]

Good work Roger,

I built this exact kit a few months ago, yes it can be a bit of a pain, but the end result is well worth the effort. I don't know if this will be of any interest to you, but eduard do a mask set for all the glazing, including the curved bomb aimers window.

The landing gear was an absolute pain, I broke and repaired a few of the tiny bits many times over. Looking at my old pics, it seems I built the gear then fitted one half of the nacelle in place, then the other half which left me with huge gaps above, were I had to use stretche sprue to fill !

Colin M.

 

[Oggy]

Blimey. I won't be rushing to buy this kit, unless I wanted to build it wheels up. I admire your perseverence.Tony

Hi Tony

Please don't be put off by my inexperience. I suspect a more able builder will not have half the trouble I have had and the kit represents an awful lot of detail for less than twenty notes.

 

[papa 695]

Your doing a grand job on it Roger keep up the great work

 

[Dave W]

Good job on the undercarriage.You wont see much of it when the models finished and sat on its wheels so it will look fine.

 

[tecdes]

Dave is right I was most disappointed to find after building the undercarriage which is complicated & looks good that you would not be able to see it when complete.

I decided to leave an outer undercarriage door on the ground as if the undercart was being maintained. Did the same with an engine.

Also had an number of horror scenes when the undercart broke. In the end stuck temporarily up in the nacelle a piece of sprue to ward off the enemy mainly me.

Nice work this is a handsome Aircraft from a great innovative aircraft company. Such a pity that the Comet put paid to them as that was another incredible pedigree. Just they were a fraction ahead of technology. A real shame.

Laurie

 

[Oggy]

No comment.

 

[Buttonman]

AAAAAARRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH I feel your pain brother,.

Deep breaths walk away have a jam sandwhich

Hope it comes good and you are ok

Martin

 

[HAWKERHUNTER]

:emo2:

 

[Oggy]

Once I had the undercarriage on, I thought it was going to be easier. Wrong.



The canopy was not a good fit. With the rear part aligned with the fuselage, the front edge was displaced to starboard in relation to the centre line. The side windows are separate (another option, large, small or no blisters). They are quite fiddly to get to fit right. I used Pacer 560 glue which is what I used to use on my RC models. This has the advantage of being a white PVA glue so if it contacts the transparencies you can simply wash or wipe it off – it does not attack the transparency. It does however take about 16 hours to dry.



At this point the poor Mossie suffered another setback. It fell of one shelf onto the one below (about 9 inches) which fractures the undercarriage legs. These re-glued OK, but all the tiny cross braces shattered and fell off.



I had the Eduard masking kit for the canopy which went on fairly well. Then I painted the top surfaces Dark Green with Xtracrylix paint. This seemed to go OK so I masked the surfaces with Blutack and painted the grey stripe. This was the first clue of the impending disaster. As I took the Blutack off, a couple of chips of the green came with it.





On the brighter side, at least it has been easy to get most of the paint off. It has barely stuck to the plastic at all and a judicious thumbnail removes it. Where the paint has landed on glue or filler, it is stuck solid.



Should I have primed this before I painted it and if so, what is the recommended primer?



I also found that particularly the Night Black was prone to blocking the airbrush (Iwata CR 0.5mm with Iwata Sprint Jet compressor) both undiluted and thinned with Xtracrylix own thinner. I believe others have had similar problems. Any thoughts?



Any tips (and possibly a contact number for the Samaritans) gratefully received.





Onward! :beer:

 

[Boldman]

Oooo you have my sympathies that sounds like a complete nightmare - dropping a model is up there in my top nightmare scenarios!

As for priming, I always prime, unless its a tiny part and I can't be arsed! I use Tamiya fine grey primer, but others have a lot of success with plain old Halfords Grey plastic primer. I think I might have a go with this when the current Tamiya rattle can runs out. I've also got the Tamiya white primer - I used that on the "sodding" missiles for the Aliens Dropship. Its pretty effective too.

 

[HAWKERHUNTER]

I use Humbrol No1 grey primer on all large surfaces Oggy. But I think its important not to rush in with masking until the first coats of paint have dried (cured) properly. I use enamel paints and I leave mine about two to three days for the paint to harden properly before I apply masking. I know others may disagree and think this is too long to wait but to date ,touch wood, this method has never failed me.

As regards the Samaitans Oggy, I tried to ring them the other day and they were engaged. Just my luck.:smile1:

Steve

PS That bit was only a joke.

 

[colin m]

I think priming when using acrylic paint is quite important. If I'm using enamel, I don't always prime.

 

[Buttonman]

I use vallijo grey primer straight out of the bottle never had a problem, but i always prime and give the kit a good soak in warm fairy liquid washing up water to remove the silicon release agents.

Hope this helps buddy.

Martin

 

[Oggy]

Thanks for the replies Gents. I did wash it with detergent efore I started. Off to the primer shop methinks.

Onward :beer: