Outdoor Model Mancave

[AlanG]

I'm looking at building a rather big mancave (shed/workshop) in my back garden and was going to designate a good proportion of it to models. This would mean my whole stash and equipment would be outside (oh i can hear SWMBO's joy as i type). Obviously it would all be securely locked with blinds over the windows when not in use to keep beady eyes out.

My question is though. Would i need separate insurance for it or would my household insurance cover it?

 

[KarlW]

Ask your insurers.....though most policies cover out buildings to a degree.
(And your stash is probably not a "collection" from an insurance viewpoint.)

Also my 4m by 3m shrunk rather quickly once I put stuff in it, especially a 6' by 4' train set up.......

 

[AlanG]

I'm looking at a 16ft x 20ft mancave. Possibly two of them with a joining 'corridor'

 

[Gern]

That's about 1/3 the size of my house! Should make quite a mancave Alan. I'd be wary of putting my stash outside though - it's worth a lot of money - not without electrified fences, guard towers with machine guns, dogs and a minefield!

 

[KarlW]

Don't forget insulation, I have a greenhouse heater as well to keep the temperature above the dew point. I regretted not getting a window but now have shelving where a window would of been anyway. And it took me longer sorting out the base than anything else.
16' by 20' would of been over my "permitted" allowance and I would of had to get planning involved.

 

[AlanG]

I'd be wary of putting my stash outside though - it's worth a lot of money - not without electrified fences, guard towers with machine guns, dogs and a minefield!

Hence the insurance question. It'll be secure with decent locks etc.



Yeah i would probably need planning but the local council never check and to be honest. Our neighbours all have sheds/garages way over their allowance and have done for years. Plus our next door but one neighbour has built a off-road bike/kart track in his backyard without planning so i think i'm safe lol

 

[KarlW]

Fingers crossed.

 

[dave]

Good luck with the man cave, at a previous house I had a large man cave built as an end room on the garage. i would definitely second Insulation and a proper mains electric supply. I installed an oil filled radiator with a thermostat with a frost free setting. A window for natural light and an extraction fan and a blank for connecting other extraction fans such as a spray booth.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

I'm looking at a 16ft x 20ft mancave. Possibly two of them with a joining 'corridor'

Wow! And here's me paring down my design to stay within budget on a single 10 x 8

Sounds epic, would love to see a build log if/when it goes ahead.

 

[Tim Marlow]

For insurance I would definitely talk to your insurers. As to planning, it’s worth checking, I think you only need planning if the building is classed as permanent. A timber build is classed as temporary and doesn’t need planning as far as I’m aware. Power is a must, and heating is essential as far as I’m concerned, but I’m a soft southerner.....I would still look to keep the area heated above dew point at all times though to minimise deterioration of the tools and kits inside....In that sort of environment damp is your biggest enemy.

 

[KarlW]

Planning is required if you go over a certain percentage of your land, 50% iirc, and/or plan to go closer to the road than your main building. It's a bit like building an extension to the side or rear of your house, if it's under a certain size no planning required, usually.
I want to build a small deck in front of mine but that's not "permitted", but I probably will anyway.
It's also worth checking where sewer lines are, you're not permitted to build structures within a certain distance of those, even if under your property.

 

[Gary MacKenzie]

Yeah i would probably need planning but the local council never check and to be honest.

Alan , in scotland , https://www.mygov.scot/build-shed-garage-greenhouse/

 

[AlanG]

Alan , in scotland , https://www.mygov.scot/build-shed-garage-greenhouse/

Back garden is 17m x 15 m (255m square). So i have 127.5m available to use. So far we've used 15m square. Loads left! lol

 

[JR]

Alan.
Sounds a great idea, agree with Dave about the insulation and electrics.
Putting insulation under the floor is well worth the additional expense. You can get foil back thermo board in various thicknesses.
Although it would increase the height of your floor so much heat is lost through the floors of sheds .


Like Tim says heating is a must, I have one of those electric oil heaters set on frost free during the winter time. Keeps the cave damp free, and just turn it up if I plan to be in there. With mine I have 100 mm between the ceiling joists then plasterboard.
Walls have 50 mm then plaster board. I was pleased to find how little time it takes to get the temperature up to a pleasant working condition.
Where the cost may add up at the start, in time you will be glad that you did it .
Good luck .

 

[skinflint]

Don't forget to add some type of alarm system. Regardless of the insurance requirements, it's essential for your own peace of mind. Could be either a stand-alone system or a zone from the main household alarm.

 

[Gern]

Alan.
Sounds a great idea, agree with Dave about the insulation and electrics.
Putting insulation under the floor is well worth the additional expense. You can get foil back thermo board in various thicknesses.
Although it would increase the height of your floor so much heat is lost through the floors of sheds .

View attachment 392484
Like Tim says heating is a must, I have one of those electric oil heaters set on frost free during the winter time. Keeps the cave damp free, and just turn it up if I plan to be in there. With mine I have 100 mm between the ceiling joists then plasterboard.
Walls have 50 mm then plaster board. I was pleased to find how little time it takes to get the temperature up to a pleasant working condition.
Where the cost may add up at the start, in time you will be glad that you did it .
Good luck .

Wot! You gonna waste that perfectly good dio base just for measly insulation!? You're as bad as those folks who use Klear for floor and furniture polish!

Get the rolls of fibreglass stuff instead.

 

[Ian M]

You can get a solar heater made for sheds and summer houses that are for keeping them frost free (and up to 15 - 20 degrees C ) work a bit like a heat exchanger. once installed they are free of running costs.
Just need sunshine....... Hmm maybe not that good an idea where you live Al. lol
Best suggestions are run a power line and water. If not to far away connect to the drains.

 

[AlanG]

It'll have mains power as standard. But i did think about a solar heater. Also if i'm honest those little power turbines you get for caravans. Because we get quite a lot of 'breezy days' up here, i think i could have a battery system installed. Cost is going to be the main factor with things. But i think i could get the wood direct from a sawmill (we have a few up here) for about £1000. Obviously i'll be doing the build myself so that cuts costs. But having looked into a company purchased one, i'd be looking at the best part of £2500. Tiny bit of saving there.

 

[KarlW]

If you're doing wood damp proof, damp proof, damp proof.
Shed companies have you building on pre-cast conrete blocks, then they can sell you a new shed in 10 years.....a properly installed and maintained shed should last 40 years plus.
Before settling on a metal shed my plans for a wooden shed involved concrete piers and dpc and the joists still being ground contact rated.
A mate also made the mistake of having a concrete slab base for his shed bigger than the sheds footprint, this allowed it to collect rain, ideally the shed should overlap the slab, if you go that route.

 

[AlanG]

I was going down the concrete base bigger than the shed footprint. My reasons are that a mate of mine did the same thing but as the concrete was drying he placed 'runs' of wood in it from centre to outside edge (getting slightly deeper the nearer the edge) to allow drainage channels to be made for rainwater. Obviously removed them before the concrete was totally set. Worked wonders.