Paint for diecast vehicles

yan

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Hi everyone my first post here and about to hopefully start into airbrushing with good equipment.
I have a collection of 1950s Dinky vehicles that I would like to renovate and would like to know what paints are best suitable for this project.
I was hoping that acrylics might be ok because of the easier cleanup for airbrushes etc, but advice needed please.
I do not own a decent airbrush at present so that will be my next task along with compressor etc, although I have been playing about with a cheap Clarke’s airbrush given to me with air bottles, which was enjoyable.
Thank you in advance for as much help as possible.
 

Si Benson

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Hi Ian,
I don’t see a problem using acrylics for your project. I’d suggest getting yourself one or two acrylic colours,
and an acrylic gloss varnish and have a practice, see if you get a finish you like.
Vallejo model air are a popular range, but I’d recommend adding a Flow improver, both are available from the shop that runs this forum Scale model shop.co.uk (if your UK based)
At least with these you can touch up with a brush relatively easily.
There are lots of other brands available such as AMMO Mig, Ak interactive etc
There is a guy on YouTube that repaints old die cast models, I’ll see if I can find him for you....might be useful?
Hope this helps
 

yan

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Hello Si thank you yes that is very helpful much appreciated, yes I am in the uk, Norfolk.
It will now maybe allow me to pick a suitable airbrush for this type of finish if there is one more suited to Acrylics.
I have heard of the Vallejo paints and seen a few people on YouTube using them for various works so was hoping someone might recommend them.
I would be interested in the guys name that does the die cast models if you can hunt him up for me.
I have looked at a few of the vids on YouTube of people restoring die cast vehicles but must say some of the paintwork when finished does not look brilliant, it may be the lack of preparation to the vehicle body’s because some still looked to have a little corrosion before painting.
I have seen that one person had started to try to repair the corrosion by putting them in a bath of liquid of some sort with a nickel anode and low voltage current passed through them which definitely seemed to repair them.
Do you have any advice regarding good airbrushes or shall I post on the correct forum.
Thanks once again you have been very helpful.
 

yan

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I have seen that vid thanks but will have another look, any help with the airbrush side of things.
 

Si Benson

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No probs Ian,
With regards to which airbrush/compressor...….
735258.jpg…...:smiling5:
...well it’s probably the most asked question on every model forum!

Everyone will have a favourite that they recommended. I started of with a cheap airbrush from EBay to see how I got on, then moved on to an iwata revolution .
This does everything I want it to...had it since 2010 with no problems. I spray acrylics, enamels and lacquer based paint through it and always keep it clean.
I found an airbrush review in a model magazine where they compared the pro and cons of different manufacturers, this one was one of the entry level brushes available.

As I said everyone and his dog will recommend the airbrush they use. The prices can get stupid expensive so do your homework on what you really need it to do.
I was lucky enough to be lent my compressor from a good friend that hasn't asked for it back yet:tongue-out:......but again there are loads to choose from!

if you've got a few hours, grab a notepad and start scrolling through this lot for help deciding :flushed:
 

yan

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Thanks Si that has helped me no end with the quiries in my head.
I had been looking at reviews of the H&S Infinity 2 in 1 with the .2 & .4 tips rather than the .15 & .4. , I do like buying just once if you know what I mean, any thoughts and would it be ok for acrylics.
I have also heard good things about the Mr Hobby airbrushes.
 

Tim Marlow

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Hi Yan
Just to add ideas, I have a sparmax compressor and an Iwatta airbrush, and don’t think I will ever need anything else unless one is irreparably damaged....
Not really sure why you would need the .2 tip and needle on die casts either....most of your work will be spray finish coats, not complex fine line work. I would go with the .4 for virtually everything....don’t buy the .2 unless it comes in the kit....put the money towards a spray booth.
Cheers
Tim
 

yan

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Hi Yan
Just to add ideas, I have a sparmax compressor and an Iwatta airbrush, and don’t think I will ever need anything else unless one is irreparably damaged....
Not really sure why you would need the .2 tip and needle on die casts either....most of your work will be spray finish coats, not complex fine line work. I would go with the .4 for virtually everything....don’t buy the .2 unless it comes in the kit....put the money towards a spray booth.
Cheers
Tim
 

yan

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Hi Tim thank you for your reply I believe I could get the brush with just a .4 tip which would be a cheaper solution but it also comes as a kit with both tips.
My thoughts were to get the kit so that I would be able to do more intricate work later if required rather than another brush.
Unsure whether to get the kit with a .2 or a .15 tip.
Regarding the spray station I am making one for myself.
I have been looking at the Sparmax compressors, didn’t know whether to go for the single piston one or the double piston. I see that scale models do one with a 3ltr tank also, any thoughts please.
 

Jakko

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With “restoration”, do you mean bringing the Dinky Toys back into their original, as-new condition? In that case I’m wondering if an airbrush is even the right tool for the job — I suppose the paint on toy cars is far thicker than what you’ll likely lay down with an airbrush, especially one intended for detail work. Spraying whole toy car bodies a single colour will go just as well with a simple spray gun or a spraying can, as with an expensive airbrush — perhaps even better.
 

Tim Marlow

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Hi Yan, sorry, sold you a pup there, I actually have an Iwatta Studio power jet lite compressor....not a sparmax....very similar though.
It gives very well controlled air flow with start and stop tech which means it only runs when you need it. Makes it much quieter in use.....
If you have a look at the Airbrushes.com web site they show useful compatibility charts for brushes and compressors. Basically pick your brush then pick a compressor that will deliver enough air to run it....
 

Mini Me

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Hi Ian, Jakko makes a very good point. Having owned and played with many Dinky and Matchbox toys over the years, They all were really heavily painted.
I'm thinking a small cup gun on a standard compressor would do the trick. You water color boys out there may laugh at this but I would recommend an oil base paint such as good old enamel or lacquer if you want a smoother job. It would certainly be more durable as well as authentic.
Regards, Rick H.
 

yan

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With “restoration”, do you mean bringing the Dinky Toys back into their original, as-new condition? In that case I’m wondering if an airbrush is even the right tool for the job — I suppose the paint on toy cars is far thicker than what you’ll likely lay down with an airbrush, especially one intended for detail work. Spraying whole toy car bodies a single colour will go just as well with a simple spray gun or a spraying can, as with an expensive airbrush — perhaps even better.
 

yan

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Hi Jakko thank for your input, well with restoration it would be good if it was possible to bring them back to original condition. I had questioned myself using the acrylic paints against enamels or automotive paints but am unsure whether it would be possible for me to go this route.
To go the Spraygun route I believe I would need a much larger compressor and if going the automotive paints proper breathing apperatus.
Don’t know much about equipment for spraying enamels but maybe more concerns with clean up.
Regarding rattle cans would you be able to get a quality finish from one of these.
I have seen some work on YouTube from users using cans and have seen some poor results but what do I know.
I am willing to go which ever route is best, just trying to find out.
 

yan

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Hi Yan, sorry, sold you a pup there, I actually have an Iwatta Studio power jet lite compressor....not a sparmax....very similar though.
It gives very well controlled air flow with start and stop tech which means it only runs when you need it. Makes it much quieter in use.....
If you have a look at the Airbrushes.com web site they show useful compatibility charts for brushes and compressors. Basically pick your brush then pick a compressor that will deliver enough air to run it....
 

yan

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Hi Ian, Jakko makes a very good point. Having owned and played with many Dinky and Matchbox toys over the years, They all were really heavily painted.
I'm thinking a small cup gun on a standard compressor would do the trick. You water color boys out there may laugh at this but I would recommend an oil base paint such as good old enamel or lacquer if you want a smoother job. It would certainly be more durable as well as authentic.
Regards, Rick H.
 
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