Paint sanding

[Defiant911]

This works with MRP paint and, I suspect other lacquers, perhaps some might want to experiment with other types of paint.

Do a mist spray of Mr Levelling Thinner over the finish, it reactivates the paint and it self levels to a perfect finish. Sometimes you might need to do it two or three times for the full effect and you should avoid flooding the model.

This can also be part of your airbrush cleaning routine.

Let us know if it works with other paint types.

Hi Barry, so are you saying try using the levelling thinner on my current paint mishap to see if it improves the finish?

 

[Defiant911]

This works with MRP paint and, I suspect other lacquers, perhaps some might want to experiment with other types of paint.

Do a mist spray of Mr Levelling Thinner over the finish, it reactivates the paint and it self levels to a perfect finish. Sometimes you might need to do it two or three times for the full effect and you should avoid flooding the model.

This can also be part of your airbrush cleaning routine.

Let us know if it works with other paint types.

What is MRP paint?

 

[Deleted member 7917]

Carl, as I have some Aqua paints, I could paint a large model part with it, let it dry and confirm that Mr. Color thinners will remove it easily with a cotton bud. Just let me know and I'd be happy to do it and report back to you.

 

[Defiant911]

Carl, as I have some Aqua paints, I could paint a large model part with it, let it dry and confirm that Mr. Color thinners will remove it easily with a cotton bud. Just let me know and I'd be happy to do it and report back to you.

Thanks for that, given the mess of my wing I have no choice to remove paint. I had thought about trying to sand of high spots of paint and then hand paint back in the camo wheee it has gone wrong but I think this will just end up looking wrong as it’s difficult to get the same end result hand painting compared to airbrushing. Either way I need to order the thinners or some fairy power spray or something to remove the paint. If in the mean time thou want to try it then I’d be interested to hear and see the results.
Ps- here was the slightly better side of the Heinkel which paint didn’t spill
Over, just had dusty
Looking finish.
Carl

 

[Deleted member 7917]

OK Carl, I'll whack the paint on now, give it a couple of hours to dry then attack it with the thinners and let you know later this afternoon. If it works like it did on Humbrol and Ammo, it will leave the plastic looking like it was never painted.

 

[Defiant911]

OK Carl, I'll whack the paint on now, give it a couple of hours to dry then attack it with the thinners and let you know later this afternoon. If it works like it did on Humbrol and Ammo, it will leave the plastic looking like it was never painted.

Thanks Murfie

 

[BarryW]

Hi Barry, so are you saying try using the levelling thinner on my current paint mishap to see if it improves the finish?

If it is lacquer based acrylic, yes but if any other type of acrylic test it first off the kit.

 

[BarryW]

What is MRP paint?

MRP is a leading brand of lacquer acrylic paint that is airbrush ready, many, including me, consider it to be the best airbrush paint that you can get, They have a water based line as well that can be used with a brush. Indeed when handbrushing detail over a lacquer paint it is best to use a water based acylic as lacquers dont handbrush well and will reactivate the base paint.
Their website

http://https:tongue-out3:/mrpaint.sk/farby

A review

Note that some people still call them by their orginal name, MR Paint (MR are the initials of the company founder) but they changed their name to MRP as it was being confused with the Gunz Mr Color range.

 

[Defiant911]

MRP is a leading brand of lacquer acrylic paint that is airbrush ready, many, including me, consider it to be the best airbrush paint that you can get, They have a water based line as well that can be used with a brush. Indeed when handbrushing detail over a lacquer paint it is best to use a water based acylic as lacquers dont handbrush well and will reactivate the base paint.
Their website

http://https:tongue-out3:/mrpaint.sk/farby

A review

Note that some people still call them by their orginal name, MR Paint (MR are the initials of the company founder) but they changed their name to MRP as it was being confused with the Gunz Mr Color range.

Thanks for that Barry, I haven’t reallly been impressed trying to airbrush revell thus far. The results have been erratic at best. I ya e used Vallejo and these have been almost fine straight out the bottle. They seem much more watery than the revell. That said, I’ve still added my Tamiya x-20a thinner which I thought improved flow and blocking although it would appear I probably should not be using this with these paints?
I will try some of the MRP next as I really want to get nice air brush results and this far it’s been patchy from one model to the next.
carl

 

[Defiant911]

MRP is a leading brand of lacquer acrylic paint that is airbrush ready, many, including me, consider it to be the best airbrush paint that you can get, They have a water based line as well that can be used with a brush. Indeed when handbrushing detail over a lacquer paint it is best to use a water based acylic as lacquers dont handbrush well and will reactivate the base paint.
Their website

http://https:tongue-out3:/mrpaint.sk/farby

A review

Note that some people still call them by their orginal name, MR Paint (MR are the initials of the company founder) but they changed their name to MRP as it was being confused with the Gunz Mr Color range.

Your link to the MRP paints doesn’t work for me?

 

[BarryW]

Your link to the MRP paints doesn’t work for me?

try

https://mrpaint.sk/farby

 

[stillp]

Hmm, what thinners would you suggest?

Either Revell Aqua thinner, or water.
Pete

 

[Deleted member 7917]

Hi Carl,

Thinners worked as expected. Here's what we started with on the underside of a hack Heinkel He-111 that I use for testing. The three Aqua colors are indicated on the image.



After softening with a Q-tip soaked in thinners, followed by wiping with a paper kitchen towel also dowsed in same ...



All that remained was residue in the panel lines and rivet holes. A small stiff brush would remove that if necessary. Otherwise the plastic is back to the original.

The thinners smell and are harmful to breathe so a respirator or quality mask would be mandatory - or do it outside in a strong gale! I hope this helps resolve your problem.

Kind regards,

Murfie

 

[stona]

If that doesn't work, I picked up some MRP paints from here:

Scale Model Hobby Paints, Tools & Supplies, MRP Paints UK Stockist - HM Hobbies

Description

www.hmhobbies.co.uk

I haven't done a Euro to Pound conversion, but there can't be much in it.

I'm going to give them a go on something soon, the only problem is that if I like them, what do I do with about 200 tinlets of enamels?

Cheers

Steve

 

[BarryW]

If that doesn't work, I picked up some MRP paints from here:

http://https:tongue-out3:/www.hmhobbies.co.uk/

I haven't done a Euro to Pound conversion, but there can't be much in it.

I'm going to give them a go on something soon, the only problem is that if I like them, what do I do with about 200 tinlets of enamels?

Cheers

Steve

LOL Steve
If you are like me I just gave away 200 plus bottles of Vallejo and restocked.... Once you get hooked on MRP!!!!!

 

[Deleted member 7917]

If you are like me I just gave away 200 plus bottles of Vallejo and restocked....

A similar situation to my own when in my more naive days I was using a mix of three different incompatible acrylic paints that caused me a lot of grief.

 

[Deleted member 5496]

OK Carl some information to feed on. This is my recommendation.

Dump the AB brush in the drawer.

The Iwata is as fine brush. well engineered. I use a similar with a 0.35 for general work. Also has a top cup where you can add colours & thinners etc straight into it.

Paint. Well this is a hot bed. Every one has there ideas. Most descend on to one brand. I have. Reason is that I have become used to it know what I can do with it drying times how forgiving it is.

You have heard about Lacquer paint. So the best is to get a pot & try it. Do not go mad & buy a lot. Try it first to see if it suites you.

I use Tamiya XF & X range. This is a sophisticated range of acrylic Paint. It is thin & you will not loose any detail panel lines etc in fine detail. Try that just one pot.

With a lacquer & Tamiya you will have the best of paints.

I would get a large empty plastic drinks bottle. Spend lots of time with this selection of paints trying them out. Close then 150mm away different setting of PSI.
Spend a couple of hours it is worth while as you will learn a lot about the paints & the Iwata Brush.

On your disaster there are half a dozen reasons that could have happened. No mention of primer. I as said use the Tamiya range. The primer I use for that is Stynlerez which is superb.Not a Lacquer man so cannot adivse.

 

[Defiant911]

If that doesn't work, I picked up some MRP paints from here:

http://https:tongue-out3:/www.hmhobbies.co.uk/

I haven't done a Euro to Pound conversion, but there can't be much in it.

I'm going to give them a go on something soon, the only problem is that if I like them, what do I do with about 200 tinlets of enamels?

Cheers

Steve

Like wise, I have quite a few revell which I won’t use to airbrush going forward. I suppose they will be ok for hand brushing.

 

[Defiant911]

Hi Carl,

Thinners worked as expected. Here's what we started with on the underside of a hack Heinkel He-111 that I use for testing. The three Aqua colors are indicated on the image.

View attachment 388163

After softening with a Q-tip soaked in thinners, followed by wiping with a paper kitchen towel also dowsed in same ...

View attachment 388164

All that remained was residue in the panel lines and rivet holes. A small stiff brush would remove that if necessary. Otherwise the plastic is back to the original.

The thinners smell and are harmful to breathe so a respirator or quality mask would be mandatory - or do it outside in a strong gale! I hope this helps resolve your problem.

Kind regards,

Murfie

I wonder if there is a equivalent to this that I already have.?

 

[Defiant911]

OK Carl some information to feed on. This is my recommendation.

Dump the AB brush in the drawer.

The Iwata is as fine brush. well engineered. I use a similar with a 0.35 for general work. Also has a top cup where you can add colours & thinners etc straight into it.

Paint. Well this is a hot bed. Every one has there ideas. Most descend on to one brand. I have. Reason is that I have become used to it know what I can do with it drying times how forgiving it is.

You have heard about Lacquer paint. So the best is to get a pot & try it. Do not go mad & buy a lot. Try it first to see if it suites you.

I use Tamiya XF & X range. This is a sophisticated range of acrylic Paint. It is thin & you will not loose any detail panel lines etc in fine detail. Try that just one pot.

With a lacquer & Tamiya you will have the best of paints.

I would get a large empty plastic drinks bottle. Spend lots of time with this selection of paints trying them out. Close then 150mm away different setting of PSI.
Spend a couple of hours it is worth while as you will learn a lot about the paints & the Iwata Brush.

On your disaster there are half a dozen reasons that could have happened. No mention of primer. I as said use the Tamiya range. The primer I use for that is Stynlerez which is superb.Not a Lacquer man so cannot adivse.

I used Vallejo grey primer.