PE ladders, help!

[BattleshipBob]

Afternoon all

The Daring has very fine ladders, these are causing me a big headache lol

I first used masking tape to support them on the fret but when using a blade to remove them they still deformed, i then tried using snips, better but then had the problem if trying to remove the nub from the fret. Its so thin and fine any pressure deforms it out of shape

Can anybody help with how they get around this problem

Thanks bob

 

[Dave Ward]

Bob,
I use a ceramic tile to cut against, and a new scalpel blade. It takes a bit of practice, I still spoil bits now. I have tried annealing the fret to soften it before cutting, but you are just as liable to create distortion through the heat!
Dave

 

[rtfoe]

Hi Bob, like Dave I use a hard surface and lay the PE flat using a scalpel blade I press down until hear a tick meaning it has cut through. To remove the nub I sometimes hold the part flush with a flat nosed plier tip showing just the nub that I'll file away. Try to use a tweezer to hold the part rather than fingers and always the flat side and not across the part.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[BattleshipBob]

Bob,
I use a ceramic tile to cut against, and a new scalpel blade. It takes a bit of practice, I still spoil bits now. I have tried annealing the fret to soften it before cutting, but you are just as liable to create distortion through the heat!
Dave

Too true Dave, one look and it bends, many thanks

Hi Bob, like Dave I use a hard surface and lay the PE flat using a scalpel blade I press down until hear a tick meaning it has cut through. To remove the nub I sometimes hold the part flush with a flat nosed plier tip showing just the nub that I'll file away. Try to use a tweezer to hold the part rather than fingers and always the flat side and not across the part.

Cheers,
Richard

Hi Richard, many thanks

Will see if i get spars to practice with?

 

[boatman]

Too true Dave, one look and it bends, many thanks


Hi Richard, many thanks

Will see if i get spars to practice with?

Bob like Richard I cut P/E on a hard surface so it dont bend it out of shape an i do the cuttin with a brand new blade in a stanley knife an when i feel it click i know then its cut through an you can cut it close so no need to file
chris

 

[Deleted member 5496]

Best I have found Bob is DVD/CD new disc. Not a shiny one those that come with a matt surface ready for printing.

The best cutter an American Razor blade. Mortons are not as sharp & also wider causing bruising


They have a very thin edge & are super sharp.

When you cut into the PE with a rolling action the DVD disc will support but also let the blade very slightly penetrate into the disc but still supporting the PE.
This way you have a straight cut with out bruising. Plus I have found that if you are careful there is no need for having to file or sand the cut on the PE.

With a ceramic tile there is also a slip problem. With the CD/DVD surface being a matt finish this is not a problem. Also with small parts for absolute accuracy the PE can be temporarily taped to the disc.

These blades are super tools. Shave plastic, shave C/A from tools, shave filler from tools. So many uses & cheap as chips

100 for £7:99 or a less amount. Always have a couple on the go for each of the above jobs.
They are double ended. Put a wrap of Tamiya tape one end (good protection) then change ends as the other becomes not so sharp.

So here you go a bonanza. Ebay also has less than a 100 but you pay more for each blade.

Laurie
Blades

100 American Line Industrial Single Edge scraper Professional Quality | eBay

Sturdy design, maintains shape and strength during use. We pride ourselves in selecting and providing the best quality products.

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CD

Traxdata Printable CD-R Recordable Inkjet Blank CD's In Sleeves 80 Min 52x 700MB | eBay

Printable White CD-R + Plastic Sleeves. 1, 5 or 10 Discs in Plastic Sleeves.

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[JR]

Can't add any more to the replies, agree though that distortion of the pe is most off putting. I use an old tile for what it's worth .

 

[Jim R]

Hi Bob
I cut on a piece of hard perspex. I use a Swann Morton no 15 blade. As it is curved it can be rocked to cut close to the part leaving virtually nothing to file.

Jim

 

[Deleted member 5496]

Can't add any more to the replies, agree though that distortion of the pe is most off putting. I use an old tile for what it's worth .

Cor blimey John chuck the tiles in the dustbin. That causes the distortion.

I use a lot of Fightpaths's PE which is twice the thickness of Eduard. Cut on a CD no bruising ever.

Laurie

No bruising here

 

[Airborne01]

Similar to Jim I use a No 15 blade in the way he describes (one of the most versatile blades I've found), the PE is on a matt glazed or glass tile, however I use a 6" steel ruler to bear down on the fret whilst cutting.

 

[Tim Marlow]

I used to do a lot of Etch work in my railway days. Coaches and locos were invariably produced in that material…..but the railway stuff was better quality being made of half hard brass stock. Most military etch seems to be made from soft stock that is easier to etch, but harder to work without damage.

Techniques remain the same though.

I’ve found the best thing to cut PE on is an off cut of formica faced chipboard. The surface gives great support and is hard enough to stop the part bending as you cut. I’ve had my bit for probably thirty years! This works really well on long parts, because it doesn’t bend over the length.

Best tool I’ve found to cut through the tabs holding the part to the fret is a curved number 10 scalpel blade used with a rolling action. Hold the part down with your fingers and roll the blade (don’t slice or pull it through) to cut through the half etched tab. Trying to cut through with a straight blade using a push or slice action will generate forces that result in distortion. The curved blade cuts a minimal amount of material as it cuts through the tab, so adds very little force to the part being cut. This minimises potential distortion.

To remove the remaining tab and the cusped edge (left from the etch process) from the part a number four cut good quality flat needle file (Valorbe are excellent) is best. Hold the part in a pair of smooth jawed pliers (if small) or a decent smooth jawed vice (if larger) and draw file the edge until it’s square.

 

[BattleshipBob]

Fantastice advice from everybody, really, really appreciated!

Thank you all for taking the time chaps!!

I will get there, sometime

 

[Del640]

OK, I am NO expert but I struggled with PE during my earlier modelling days.

However I found that a brand new Swann Morton blade eased life....AND...a simple steel ruler, I placed the PE onto a ceramic tile, then placed the ruler on the top exposing the part to be cut...no swiping action just a steady pressure down on the part....you'll get a clear 'clicking sound when you're through.

Inspect the part and if the cut is not flush, repeat.

You'll knacker the blade but the PE will be neat and the part nice and straight.

Good luck!

Del

 

[BattleshipBob]

Getting better! Looking in a bag of scapel blades ( when the college moved i was given a large bag of blade ) found packs of no 10, worked a treat, got a cheapy file so need to sort that out. But much less hassle today.

Thanks again all!

 

[Jim R]

Hi Bob
The no 10 is curved, just bigger than the no 15 I use. Glad it works.
Jim

 

[BattleshipBob]

Hi Bob
The no 10 is curved, just bigger than the no 15 I use. Glad it works.
Jim

Thanks Jim

My nerves and nails are very happy lol