Pete's Wildcat
- Thread starter stillp
- Start date
Undercarrriage is now in.
and the bulkhead is the colour it should be, rather than the colour specified by Airfix. A few touch-ups needed, then I can try to glue the front back on.
Thanks for watching.
Pete
and the bulkhead is the colour it should be, rather than the colour specified by Airfix. A few touch-ups needed, then I can try to glue the front back on.It is good Colin, everything (nearly) fits, and there's plenty of detail.
Thanks for watching.
Pete
There's some sanding approaching, so I thought it time to put a canopy on to help keep the dust out. Airfix include both a closed (one part) and open (two parts) canopies, so I'll fit the closed one for protection during the rest of the assembly, and painting, and then remove it and fit the open one. However, just in case I mess up, I've masked the closed canopy before fitting it, so I can always leave it in place.
I've heard good things about Bare Metal Foil for masking, so I thought I'd give it a try on the open canopies. It certainly conforms well to the frame lines on the canopy, but I found it tricky to cut - it cuts easily, but being shiny metal it's hard to see the tip of the blade against it.
I brushed some interior green on the closed canopy. I'll do the open one later.
I need to practice more with this stuff.
Pete
I've heard good things about Bare Metal Foil for masking, so I thought I'd give it a try on the open canopies. It certainly conforms well to the frame lines on the canopy, but I found it tricky to cut - it cuts easily, but being shiny metal it's hard to see the tip of the blade against it.
I brushed some interior green on the closed canopy. I'll do the open one later.
I need to practice more with this stuff.
Pete
I've never tried bare metal foil, so will be very interested in your findings.
Ive known of the bare metal foil fir masking for years but never tried it out , you make a good point about not being able to see the tip of the ( silver) blade on the ( silver) tape! We’ll be watching to see how the experiment goes, keep up the good work pete, cheers tony
Tony, I thought it was you who recommended it to me!
I saw a video on youtube where someone used BMF and cut it with a shallow curved scalpel blade, pushing rather than pulling the scalpel, to be more able to see where the blade is going. I didn't try that, just used the point of a number 11P, same as usual.
Pete
I saw a video on youtube where someone used BMF and cut it with a shallow curved scalpel blade, pushing rather than pulling the scalpel, to be more able to see where the blade is going. I didn't try that, just used the point of a number 11P, same as usual.
Pete
Got a little more done. Couldn't fix the bit of fuselage that I'd cut off yesterday, as the join in the middle broke so I glued that yesterday then let it cure overnight before refitting it. I used the rear row of the engine to help locate it - just taped in place here.
Those joints will need a bit of filler and sanding, so I fitted the closed canopy with Maskol to keep the dust out. Maskol works really well as a temporary adhesive for parts that will be removed later.
Pete
Those joints will need a bit of filler and sanding, so I fitted the closed canopy with Maskol to keep the dust out. Maskol works really well as a temporary adhesive for parts that will be removed later.
Pete
I needed a spot of filler on those joints, so dabbed them with Mr Dissolved Putty, which is very good for thin shallow seams. While that was drying I did some cleaning up on the wheels, and painted the prop:
Quite pleased with that, but I always find masking the yellow tips tricky. Does anyone have any tips for getting them straight, and all the same size? That's Tamiya yellow for the tips, Vallejo black, then Revell steel for the hub.
Pete
Quite pleased with that, but I always find masking the yellow tips tricky. Does anyone have any tips for getting them straight, and all the same size? That's Tamiya yellow for the tips, Vallejo black, then Revell steel for the hub.
Pete
Archetype
FAA plane builder
I can share what I do.
Take some tape, lay it flat, draw a line in from one edge the intended depth of the tip. Then cut in to strips, fold in half (tacking only the ends) and then place over the tip to the marked depth.
Take some tape, lay it flat, draw a line in from one edge the intended depth of the tip. Then cut in to strips, fold in half (tacking only the ends) and then place over the tip to the marked depth.
D
Deleted member 7181
Guest
It's not every day you get the chance to pose an aircraft with the wings folded. Only one option for me 
boatman
SMF Supporter
FOLDED
Chris
Chris
Cool. PaulE
boatman
SMF Supporter
Well Pete what Rick has said that's a bloomin good idea now that's something different an the best of both worldsHow about a small dio with the wings being unfolded with one already opened and locked and the other in progress?
Rick H.
chris
Whatever you fancy pete , bear in mind though , if you do fold one or both wings , when folded the ailerons deflected upwards due to the control cable being tightened , on both wings too if youre going for fully folded, cheers tony
