Pigment fixer dissolving my model?

[Deleted member 7181]

Just wondered if anyone else has come across this.

I'm using some Mig Pigments & their fixer, and where I've been a bit too generous with the liquid it's softening the glue joints and the thing is self destructing

Obviously I need to be more careful, but is this something I should have expected? Are the solvents in it known for this?

Thanks,
Andy.

 

[Ian M]

I just use thinned down acrylic varnish. Works for me and saves buying extra things you dont really need...
Never heard of propriortory fixers attacking glues before though.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Ian. Trying to give myself a fighting chance by using ready made products. Probably unnecessary like you say but I need all the help I can get!

A blast with the hairdryer has firmed the joints back up. Will be more wary of where I apply it now.

 

[Ian M]

hanks Ian. Trying to give myself a fighting chance by using ready made products. Probably unnecessary like you say but I need all the help I can get!

Totally Andy. Most of us though have some type of clear coat Acrylic of otherwise. Dont tell anyone but half the time these "special" formular this that and the other are all the same stuff.. I use varnish 'cause I have it and they (manurfacturers) have more money than I do. lol. As a bonus, gloss varnish gives a good wet mud look and matt a nice almost totally flat dried up mud look. (Put it on thick enough and dry it quick and it can even crack up like mud does) .

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Yes, I'm sure there's a lot of clever marketing going on to fool people like me into buying several bottles of the same stuff with a different label! I've tried my best to avoid it up until now but knew I'd give in eventually.

Some areas will be getting gloss varnish anyway for the wet look, but I like the cracked mud idea.

 

[Jim R]

Hi Andy
Some products do 'reactivate' previously used products. Decals treated with MicroSol and laying down nicely can wrinkle up again with an acrylic varnish. They will lay flat again if just left alone. Although I have not had glue soften it sounds as if your issue is similar. Paints, glues, washes etc all need longer to dry than we imagine. Rushing one process on top of another can lead to problems.
I must agree with Ian regarding some of the 'stuff' manufacturers would like us to buy. I am a real sucker for 'must have' products which the makers swear will improve my models They sit gathering dust and I resort to basic, tried and tested methods.
Jim

 

[adt70hk]

Totally Andy. Most of us though have some type of clear coat Acrylic of otherwise. Dont tell anyone but half the time these "special" formular this that and the other are all the same stuff.. I use varnish 'cause I have it and they (manurfacturers) have more money than I do. lol. As a bonus, gloss varnish gives a good wet mud look and matt a nice almost totally flat dried up mud look. (Put it on thick enough and dry it quick and it can even crack up like mud does) .

Ian

Thanks for the tip. Very useful!

ATB

Andrew

 

[rtfoe]

Hi Andy, local turps react to joints the same way as we use it to thin oil paints for panel or dirty wash. I have since stopped that process and use watercolor instead. I guess if I use artist turps it might not react the same.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Richard.

I tried using a pipette to apply the fixer at first but it was a bit lively to say the least and I ended up with liquid running off the model, so no doubt some seeped into the joints causing the issue. I've since switched to dabbing the fixer on with a small brush and it's much more controlled.

Now if I can just stop knocking bits off or dropping them on the floor I might actually get these models finished!

 

[spanner570]

Keep it simple Andy....

 

[JR]

Meths is better it burns well !

TAXI

 

[Steve Jones]

Yes it does Andy. I use MIG and it is quite an aggressive fixer. I tend to let one drop go along way. I use it mainy as the initial fixer then once dry I reinforce the work with extra pigments but using other fixers as already mentioned in the thread. Once that stage is complete I finish off with more pigments and oil work. All together around three layers of pigments will be added to create depth and variety.

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks Steve. I think one thing I definitely need to work on is layering (and my patience lol!) I'm trying to get things done in one shot so no wonder I'm not getting quite the results I'd hoped for.

 

[JR]

Thanks Steve. I think one thing I definitely need to work on is layering (and my patience lol!) I'm trying to get things done in one shot so no wonder I'm not getting quite the results I'd hoped for.

Think we either all do this Andy or have done. Once your in the swing you don't want to stop, suppose it's learning to leave it alone until the next day .

 

[Deleted member 7181]

I know what you mean John. My problem is that if I have to leave something until the next day I'll have nothing to do so end up starting something else and soon have too many things on the go at once. I've already built, primed and preshaded two more models whilst waiting for my resin water to arrive!

Then there's the drying time with oils. I've patiently waited up to a week for them to dry before now but as soon as I try to go over them with another layer or different effect (like an oil or enamel pin wash) it strips the previous one off. That's the kind of thing they never tell you about in the hundreds of weathering videos I've watched. There must be a way around it but I haven't found it yet so will keep practicing until I crack it

 

[Steve Jones]

I use the Mike Rinaldi method of weathering. This allows you to fully weather and layer a model in days rather than weeks. His videos and books are all over the internet if you want to learn more.

 

[JR]

Morning you two
Wow, that's devotion for you Andy. I bet your building your models with the same mind set as you have at work. I have times when I can't wait to model and want every thing done at once, as in the case of oil washes. This is the most frustrating part waiting for the oil wash to dry.
Steve's suggestion of looking up the guy he mentions is one I'm going to do. I've even even started to use those oil brushers, now they have speeded up the weathering.
Time for coffee

 

[rtfoe]

Hi Andy, I have used a medium called Liquin to my oil paints so that it dries faster within hours but the draw back is too much and your paint gets transparent and there is likelyhood of cracking. So far I haven't experienced cracking as I coat my paint work with varnish. I still have a bottle of it since I've changed to acrylics for figures and watercolor for my washes.

Can't remember if my Liquin is from Rembrandt or Windsor & Newton.

Also another method is to squeeze oil paint onto paper towels or box card to let the oils soak out.

Cheers,
Richard

 

[JR]

Just watched the guy Steve mentioned........ Mike Rinaldi so going to post the videos on painting chat

 

[Deleted member 7181]

Thanks for the replies chaps, I think I was rambling a bit and not making great sense. That's posting at past midnight for you. Desperate to get to sleep, knowing my alarm would be sounding at 04:30!

I've watched that whole series of Hornet Hobbies / Rinaldi videos a few times. It's where I cottoned on to putting my oils on cardboard to leach out the linseed oil. That's helped with drying times, as has using Oilbrushers, but my problem remains that when moving to another stage involving oils, any clean up work involving thinners will rectivate the previous oil work stripping it off.

So, for example, if I put on a filter with oils, if I then use oils for a wash, any necessary clean up will strip the filter. It's how I ruined part of my T-28 and have had to fudge others. I think Rinaldi and people like Martin Kovac ( Night Shift on YT) get around this by alternating layers of acrylic and oil/enamel products, so that one doesn't affect the other. That's more investment I'd rather avoid if I can.

Maybe I should go back to aircraft as they need comparatively very little weathering