Post War 1/72 FAA - Part 3 - Hobbyboss Hawker Seahawk FGA.6

Dave Ward

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On the principle on getting back on a horse, after a fall - I've selected this, as being ( hopefully ) the simplest of the post war FAA builds. The Sea Vixen is stowed out of sight, for fear of violent retribution!hobby boss seahawk.jpg

Mr Foenander did the 1/48 Trumpeter version of this recently - and made a prize winning model. At the moment, I'll be happy with good masking lines.................
Dave
 

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Another I will be watching keenly.

I hope the problems with your Vixen are isolated and and don’t manifest this time.
 

Dave Ward

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Well, I'll be using a different primer, and the underside is Sky, so the problem should not repeat itself! ( If it does - I'll be taking up macrame - no sharp objects used! )
Dave
 

Dave Ward

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Some sprue shots - not many parts - all nicely moulded, no flash.P1060314.JPGP1060315.JPGP1060317.JPGP1060318.JPG

No PE - two quite large decal sheets - nicely printed
P1060316.JPG

There are 3 finishes 2 X FAA & 1 Indian. the FAA are EDSG over Sky, and EDSG over white.
HobbyBoss have got it wrong, they say IJN grey, instead of white - and even stranger, HB think that serial numbers were applied on the top of the wing, as well as underneath. I think I'm going for the EDSG/White Ace Of Diamonds
P1060319.JPG

Tempting fate, using the white undersurfaces, but I have to try it!
Dave
 

Dave Ward

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Assembly starts & painted the inlets - added main wheel wells & split jet exhaust............P1060322.JPG

Cockpit tub - painted Black Grey & decals added for panel instruments............
P1060321.JPG

A suitable white metal ejector seat, and a pilot from the spares boxP1060323.JPG
Nowhere is there anything indicated about adding weight to the nose, so I'll check before closing the upper and lower fuselage. It's a simple kit, and the fit is good, but there are a few whiskers of flash that need scraping off, especially around the nose
Dave
 

Dave Ward

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Jakko,
Could be - he's one of about 5 jet pilots in my spares box, who actually look human! Not too thin, or too squat - or even with a big shrink hole in his stomach........................
Dave
 

Jakko

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I’m 100% certain he’s Matchbox :smiling3: They only had two seated pilot figures, one in Second World War attire and one in a modern flight suit, and you can spot them both by the way they hold their hands: right one flat on the knee, left one vertical on the knee.
 

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I've CA'd some BB to the fuselage to prevent tailsitting, then closed up. I added the tail, and put some primer on the joints, to see any problemsP1060325.JPG

Top & bottom, OK, but the fuselage to tail needs a bit of attention. The Sea Hawk has such smooth lines, that any step will be obvious. I've deepened the cannon muzzle depressions, they were almost invisible.
I've had to ditch the white metal seat - it was just a gnats' too wide, so I've reverted to th kit parts.
Dave
 

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Hi Dave, the kit parts layout is very similar to the Trumpeter version including the rocket assembly. The front undercarriage has been simplified with the wheel stuck on.

So far the build looks smooth. I would have advised a bit of manupilation on the tail section and that if there was a step to have that happen more towards the bottom as sanding would be easier with less details dissappearing.
Going to pop over to see what went wrong with the Vixen. From what I've read I hope the SeaHawk smoothes things over and calms you down. :hugging-face:

Cheers,
Richard
 

Dave Ward

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Richard,
I lined the tail up, making the jet exhaust fairings flush. I reasoned that it was easier to clean up the top & bottom of the fuselage, rather than the tricky hard to reach bits around the jet nozzles.
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Richard,
I lined the tail up, making the jet exhaust fairings flush. I reasoned that it was easier to clean up the top & bottom of the fuselage, rather than the tricky hard to reach bits around the jet nozzles.
Dave

Dave, you got it right there especially when there is a line that runs along the edge of the exhaust. :thumb2:

Cheers,
Richard
 

Dave Ward

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I washed the airframe, very carefully, then applied the AK primer. Resisting temptation, I let this dry for 24 hours - then sprayed on the Hataka Insignia White...................P1060326.JPG
I'm going to resist temptation again & let this dry today, before masking up & spraying the EDSG uppers. It is a bit of hassle, waiting, but I want to give the primers and basecoats the best chance of cooperating! If it doesn't work, then I'll have to revert to plan 'B'. Plan 'C' is landfill..................
Dave
 

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I don’t know if this is a tip or not, but something I was taught as an apprentice draughtsman was to reduce the tack of the tape by repeatedly sticking it to my shirt.
It’s a habit I still have if I want to reduce the strength of the adhesive.
 

Dave Ward

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Chris,
I use the back of my hand! If you overdo it, though, the paint creeps under the edge, and you may as well use a 1" housebrush.......
Dave
 

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That’s true! It’s by no means fool proof, but I thought it worth mentioning just in case.
 

rtfoe

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Dave, for this delicate operation you will have to use the Tammy tape

Cheers,
Richard
 

Dave Ward

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Richard,
I'm going to use my Tamiya mask film. The tape I used before was a bit fierce, so anything to improve my chances will be used!
Dave
 

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Here’s to hoping this one will come out better than in part 2. On the positive side, if it does, then you have the answer to how to finish that one too.
 
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