Problem with CR 0.5 and CR 0.3.

[slupanter]

My CRs and playing up.

I use model air (dark yellow) and (black)

vallejo air brush cleaner

Both have been cleaned with vallejo air brush cleaner before and during use.

See picsView attachment 38573View attachment 38574View attachment 38576View attachment 38578View attachment 38579View attachment 38580

As you can see bubbles in cup, spattering and skipping.

Tried adding thinner to dark yellow, still no luck. Could the paint have go funny?

Please help. I'm tears

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[john]

The paint should last for ages if the bottle is closed properly, does it do this when using both needles?

Try scraping the tip of the needle with your thumb nail to see if there is a bit of paint dried on the tip

 

[Ian M]

yep. I would say that the paint needs thinning more. First check that the needle is clean and not caked with paint on the tip. Then check the air pressure. It might be a bit low.

The splatter patterns you show, points towards either to thick paint or to low air pressure. Try playing with those first and see if it helps any.

Ian M

 

[geegad]

If the paint is caked on use cellulose thinner that will clean of any paint no mater how thick it is I use it at the end of every session...

Good luck there's no greater pain than an airbrush on the blink...

Geegad

 

[m1ks]

Bubbles in the cup when pressing air/as soon as you start to paint?

If so the two main culprits are the nozzle not seated right or the nozzle is split, either one will give this telltale sign and cause fluctuations in flow causing spitting and spatter. Split nozzles can be caused by seating the needle too firmly, (ask me how I know!)

If you're fortunate it'll be just incorrectly seating allowing air to leak back, strip it, give it all a really good clean and re seat, use a magnifier to check the tip with needle in, a split will be immediately evident, replacement of the nozzle will be required here.

Take a look at my video for a how to thorough airbrush clean, if you're not done a thorough one do the first with cellulose thinners, it should be powerful enough to shift any old caked acrylic.

Model tips, How to clean your airbrush after Enamel & Acrylic paint use - YouTube

 

[slupanter]

I used the paint about 4 weeks age plus both airbrushes.

Now the paint keeps drying on the needle tip. Would that course the bubbles? How does the black look? still a little spatter on the black.

why would the paint suddenly change thinkness.

tried running the brush with vallego thinner first. Worked for abit.

 

[slupanter]

Bubbles in the cup when pressing air/as soon as you start to paint?If so the two main culprits are the nozzle not seated right or the nozzle is split, either one will give this telltale sign and cause fluctuations in flow causing spitting and spatter. Split nozzles can be caused by seating the needle too firmly, (ask me how I know!)

If you're fortunate it'll be just incorrectly seating allowing air to leak back, strip it, give it all a really good clean and re seat, use a magnifier to check the tip with needle in, a split will be immediately evident, replacement of the nozzle will be required here.

Take a look at my video for a how to thorough airbrush clean, if you're not done a thorough one do the first with cellulose thinners, it should be powerful enough to shift any old caked acrylic.

Model tips, How to clean your airbrush after Enamel & Acrylic paint use - YouTube

Bubbles after sparying for 1minute.

Checked needle use magifier, All good.

I like the video.

When and were should i use super lube?

Were can i get cellulose thinners?

 

[john]

When and were should i use super lube?

When you put super lube on don't leave it on it will leave a film on the needle that will cause you problems, put it on work it in then remove it.

Were can i get cellulose thinners?

This stuff is for cleaning Alclad2 lacquers (US) cellulose (UK)

Alclad 2 Airbrush Cleaner 120ml ALC-307

 

[slupanter]

I've thinned the paint again. I'll have another go tonight.

 

[stona]

Related to the good advice above. Have a really good look at the needle tip under magnification. The slightest hook or burr will cause paint to dry at the tip and this will obviously interfere with a clean flow of paint.

I agree with Ian that the yellow needs to be thinned further.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Richy C]

looks like your getting blow back , I also have the CR and BR and use vallejo ab cleaner and have found it does not clean 100% I`ve had similar niggles on both ab`s quite a while back I stripped and let them soak in cellulose thinners for 2-3 hrs then gave them a proper clean with the small ab brushes and clean cellulose thinners then washed through with loads of water and they were like new after that , I still use vallejo ab cleaner but also flush them through with 3-4 ab cups of water after and have never had a problem since .

as the lads have said its either the needle or paint drying in the ab , if you think its the latter try the cleaning process above its works for me , you can also add a few droplets of water to the model air which will help .

Richy

 

[Ian M]

I have to agree with John about the Alclad airbrush cleaner. Its rather good. I come to forget an airbrush with White Ensign enamel paint in with out flushing it out!!! I discovered this after three or four days.

Left it to soak for about 15 minuets and was able to spray the remains out. Great stuff for really good clean ups. Cellulose thinners are also very good (and a lot cheaper).

An other way to check the needle with out having to hunt for a magnifying glass is to DRAG the needle across your lip or a finger nail. You will feel any bur on you lip and the slightest bur will leave a fine scratch on you nail. You will need to twist the needle as you DRAG it.

If there is a bur you can often save the needle by dragging and twisting it across an ultra fine 12000 corn sheet of wet wet and dry.

Although a nozzle defect is the most obvious reason for blow back (bubbles in the paint cup) it could also be some thing as simple as the nozzle not seating properly, a defect nozzle seal, dried paint either in the nozzle or on the needle. If you are happy that the Needle and nozzle are 100% then its time to start playing with the paints viscosity and the air pressure.

If you can use a clear pot to mix the paint and thinners. If you can just see your finger holding the jar through the paint you have a good mix. If you can't add more thinners.

Ian M

 

[Dave W]

Ive found that if the tip of an airbrush needle is bent even a little bit i get spatter.

 

[slupanter]

Sorry took a long time to get back to you all.

Is this thick paint?

I was sparying with my HP-BH. I added some model air and it spattered and when I adjusted the back nut to spary fine and it just stops sparying paint, the air continues. My PSI was 20 and I was using model air red brown.

 

[tecdes]

Alexander cannot add the above to what is causing the problem.

But just to say I thin Vallejo Model Air 35 to 50% despite what Vallejo say about it being airbrush ready.

Found, if while using the airbrush, it gums up in the needle nozzle area a squirt of Vallejo cleaner straight into the front of the nozzle gets me out of the problem. Then a full blast on a plastic bottle on average clears it.

I place the thinners in the cup first paint to follow. I then get a good brush (no loose hairs on a good brush : hope) & give it a good stir in the cup. Then give a short blast to get rid of any thinners which has lodged in the corridor to the nozzle. Yellow I have found OK but aluminium & silver are the very devil.

Also always dismantle & clean after every session. Had one problem only after this with air bubbles & found I had not paid enough attention to the nozzle cleaning. If you use Valljo varnish give a really good clean straight away. Best is to blast a full cup of Vallejo cleaner before dismantling to get rid of as much as possible.

Laurie

EDIT PS when looking at the needle through a magnifier make sure it is perfectly in focus as otherwise it will look double pronged at the end giving a false impression.