Resin casting for dummies

Jim R

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Hi all
For my HMS Rodney build I needed to make resin castings to provide extra cargo freighters. I thought a simple "how to" may be of help to some people. I must confess here and now that most of my resin casting knowledge comes from Simon T who helped me no end a few years ago when I first had a go at casting.

This is what I wanted more of. From a set of 1/700 harbour boats.
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For casting you need to provide a casting block on the base. It will be sanded off the copies.
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I make a suitable sized box using that waterproof card from milk or smoothie cartons. I stick it together with a cheap hot glue gun.
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The original is stuck to the base of the box with double sided tape.
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The rubber for the mould is mixed by weight. I part catalyst to 20 parts rubber.
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Stir well. you have plenty of time as the rubber is slow to cure.
I use a scale to weigh out the rubber and catalyst.
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Pour the rubber into the mould slowly and use a coffee stirrer or similar to gently prod around to dislodge air bubbles.
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It says that the rubber will cure in between 8 and 24 hours. I leave it for the full 24 hours. I then cut down each corner of the card box to release the mould.
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This is what you get. Carfully wiggle out the master.
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The resin I use has two parts. Mix 50/50 by weight. Now the resin, once mixed goes off quickly so don't hang about. Stir well but gently to avoid air bubbles as much as possible.
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Pour the resin into the mould and have a good prod around to try to get the resin into all the corners etc of the mould.
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Leave for an hour or so and wiggle the casting from the mould and hey-presto - then there were two! :hungry:
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I hope this may be of use to some people who haven't tried resin casting before.

NOTE - It is perfectly OK to make copies for your own use but you must not sell them.

Jim
 

Jim R

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Just a small update. Most of you will be aware that resin dust is nasty stuff. Sanding must be done with care. Either wear a mask or sand wet.

The casting block of our freighter needs to be sanded away. Sanding must be done carefully to ensure the unwanted material is removed evenly. Keep checking and keep turning the cast part. Work on a hard flat surface not a pad of newspaper which keeps the mess off the wife's kitchen worktop but is too soft. I use a board across the sink and fine wet/dry paper. The wet resin dust is a sludge which can be washed down the sink safely.

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Jim
 

Mr Bowcat

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Thanks for the SBS Jim, casting is something i've been wanting to try for a while. Where do you get your rubber and resin from?
 

Si Benson

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Looks like a successful moulding Jim...thanks for sharing :thumb2:
 

Jim R

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Thanks guys.
It is quite easy to do and can be useful. On Simon T's recommendation I buy my stuff from Sylmasta. I started with THIS starter kit.
Jim
 

Steve Jones

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As soon as I saw the title of this blog then I knew it was for me :smiling5:

I really do need to get into this part of the modelling process. Your step by step guide will be invaluable. Many thanks for sharing
 

Jim R

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Hi Steve
With your scratching skills I'm sure you would find resin casting useful. You would be able to cast multiple copies rather than scratching them. These are two resin copies just tarted up a bit with railings etc which have been primed.
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Jim
 

John Race

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Jim .
A easy to follow and to understand SBS , nice photos showing each step so thank you . Always wanted to have a go, so am going to bookmark this .Now I need something to mould .
John .
 

Mike Mortimore

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Jim,
Thank you for the very easy to follow SBS. I've done plaster casting before...... so resin will be a progressive step forward.

Cheers Mike :sleeping::sleeping::sleeping::sleeping::sleeping:
 
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