Revell 1/32 Tornado GR1 - Desert War

BarryW

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I have continued working on the stores before painting that rather large expanse of airframe....

The decals are no good for the yellow bands around the bombs, They cannot be fitted correctly due to the complex shape. Decal solvents cannot alter the shape of them.

so I masked up with a mix of tape including that for curves then sprayed RAF Marking Yellow
IMG_1233.jpg

Masking removed
IMG_1234.jpg

Not too bad at all. A little tidying to do...
 
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Jim R

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Hi Barry
Yellow bands look perfect. The decals were never going to work with that complex curve.
Jim
 

Ian M

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Yellow bands look perfect. The decals were never going to work with that complex curve.
Agree with you there on both points. Hate it when they do multi striped ones as well. 1 mm Red- 4 mm of clear then 1 mm of yellow all to be wrapped around a curved surface!

@BarryW what is this curvy tape you mentioned?
 

BarryW

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Agree with you there on both points. Hate it when they do multi striped ones as well. 1 mm Red- 4 mm of clear then 1 mm of yellow all to be wrapped around a curved surface!

@BarryW what is this curvy tape you mentioned?
Tamiya’s masking tape for curves. It is designed to be curved, not at extremes angles, but for gentle curves it is ideal. Not comes in several widths.
 

Jim R

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Hi Barry
Bombs and missiles look great.
Jim
 

BarryW

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Hi Barry
Bombs and missiles look great.
Jim
Thanks Jim. Still a bit of work to do on them once the decal solution has done it job. Washes, weathering and varnishes. But overall I am happy with how they look.
 

boatman

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A lot better build then the bronco then Barry an yes bombs an sidewinders look great
chris
 

BarryW

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I have started work on the exhaust area

Firstly I sprayed graphite into the already black primed exhausts and the Burnt Iron onto the surrounding exhaust area. This will be masked off ready to spray the next section. I will be putting a lot of work into this area with washes and metal powder treatments most of which will be done during the weathering stages.
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BarryW

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I have sprayed the wheel wells and masked them.

E42BF8DD-99A9-48E7-BE4B-8FB806600A48.jpeg

Then I started spraying the Desert Pink. I have two 30ml MRP bottles and at first wondered if that would be enough on what seems a large expanse of model.

For those daunted by a big kit the best advice is to work slowly in sections.

Here is how it looked after the first cup of paint. I am always surprised at just how far MRP actually goes and I definitely will have plenty of paint.

2E9532F2-A053-40EE-B3F3-7944BAE749B2.jpeg

For those who are unaware the variation in tone is deliberate and an outcome of the black basing method. Nothing looks more toy like than an even solid colour. Black basing is the first stage of weathering.

Here it is after the second cup of paint.
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And at the end of my session, the missus is calling to go shopping!!
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One to two more cups of paint will do it and I should have most of one bottle left.

Speaking of MRP I have used the new plastic bottle for the first time. Here it is side by side with the old glass bottle

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Note the flip cap revealing a pouring hole. These have been criticised because that does not work well as you cannot compress the bottle. That is right but, why not just remove the top and use an eye dropper and you are no worse off than before..... Actually, it is better than that. The bottle is nicely shaped to pour the open bottle direct into the airbrush cup with the top removed. Just remember to wipe the neck of the bottle after.
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The new MRP bottles are great with no worries of glass breakages any more
 

Jim R

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Hi Barry
Top coat is looking very good. The variation in tone is nice. Very neat masking and all very organized.
The only criticism I would have with the plastic bottles is they are tall and light which makes them prone to be knocked over. Perhaps some sort of simple holder could solve the problem.
Jim
 

BarryW

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Hi Jim. Yes you are right. What I have for the glass bottles are a bit too big and these bottles are too large for Vallejo sized holders. But it is easy enough to screw the top back on immediately you have poured the paint into the airbrush cup. Problem solved, just got to remember to do it and not be complacent.
 

BarryW

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I managed to sneak into the man cave to finish off the Desert Pink.

This build has brought home to me just what good coverage you get from MRP provided you work slowly and close in at low pressure. Even after using it for a year or two I was wondering whether the two bottles of 30ml paint would be enough for such a large expanse of airframe plus, of course, some of the stores. I ended up using less than one bottle with enough left in it for touching up. I ended the spray session with a mist coat of MLT mixed with what was left in the cup which was also part of the airbrush cleaning process. That MLT reactivates the paint, levels and blends it leaving a uniform semi gloss ready for decals. There remain a few areas that I will need to mask up again for some additional paint work before decaling.

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Nice to get this stage done.
 

BarryW

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By the way. Decision made. After the Kitty Hawk F5 Tiger, up next, it will be the Tamiya F16.
 

Jim R

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Hi Barry
That is an impressive paint job. The black primer coat has allowed a nice variation in tone. That coverage from the paint makes it better value :thumb2: Interesting that the finish is smooth enough to decal onto without a further gloss coat.
Jim
 

BarryW

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Hi Barry
That is an impressive paint job. The black primer coat has allowed a nice variation in tone. That coverage from the paint makes it better value :thumb2: Interesting that the finish is smooth enough to decal onto without a further gloss coat.
Jim
Indeed Jim. It gives a beautiful finish specially when you do the MLT final mist coat
 

BarryW

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I spent an entire session masking in various places for some detail painting.
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Various colours to be sprayed tonight and some hand painted detail as well.
 

papa 695

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looking very good Barry.
 

BarryW

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I have been doing some touch ups and detail painting having removed the masking with some localised masking for touch ups.

I used this for some of the metal details where a brush is needed. This is wax based and with a small drop of white spirit it goes a long way. Gives a nice metal effect. You do need a decent varnish coat on it before using enamel washes though so be warned.
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Here is a pic as it currently is. I still have some undercarriage detail to paint and an odd bit of touching up to do.

042D3743-C0FD-4700-9D29-F0F0E3A5119E.jpeg

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I am not removing the mask from the engine areas until it has had the final varnish coat. I will weather that area separately then.
 
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